In Chile, with Cuba less than a day behind me, I am almost lulled to sleep on a bus (a first for me.) The road hypnotically smooth, the bus seat one that would put the Spanish Inquisition´s ´Comfy Chair´to shame. Heading for the deserts of Northern Chile, the scenery would show subtle shifts over the 23 hour trip. Eventually, dusky pink morning sun reveals planes of crumbling, rusty earth more suited to Mars, and even cacti are reluctant to punctuate the landscape. The little moisture permitted here I see as snow ícing´on the perfect cones of almost 6000m high volcanoes nearby. My base was to be the tiny village of San Pedro de Atacama. At 2,400m in altitude, it has become a major tourist hub, with the Lonely Planet guide book describing a ´Highland adobe disneyland´
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