Blogs from San Pedro de Atacama, Antofagasta Region, Chile, South America - page 5

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As I mentioned yesterday, I flew north to the Atacama desert. Along the way I took some photos out the window, including this one of a portion of the snow-capped Andes mountains. I left off writing this blog as I was heading out the door for the star tour, so I will tell you a little about that. We climbed on a bus that drove a short way out into the desert where there were nine telescopes set up for viewing. The genial host, an expatriate Canadian, used his laser pointer to indicate the pertinent sights in the night sky. And then he pointed the telescopes toward interesting objects like stars, star clusters, and, my favorite, Jupiter and four of its moons. We could see Orion, but we also saw the Southern Cross and that is ... read more
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There is not much to say about today...yet. I traveled by airplane from Puerto Varas to Calama, Chile and then took a transfer van to San Pedro de Atacama. I arrived in time shower, eat a quick bite and head off for an evening Star Tour. That is where I am going now. The Atacama Desert is one of the best places on earth to view the night sky, so will report tomorrow about the tour.... read more


Geo: -22.9058, -68.1951That morning as I have left Iquique, I did not know how extreme that leg will turn...A nice early morning ride up onto the Ruta 5,, from Iquique on sea-level up to 2,600 metres within a very short distance...being part of the Pan-American Higway system that comes from Alaska all the way down to the deep south of Chile.First I did make the turn towards Arica, the border town to Peru...My initial plan was to go to Peru and cross over the mountains towards Cusco and into the Amazon region onto Ruta interoceánica Brasil-Perú but for some reason not entirely clear to me, I decided after 50 km driving, to simply turn round and cross into the high altitude border crossing between Chile and Argentina...not sure if I missed anything, I can only say ... read more
Let's get started...Paso Jama...the unexpected...
Up on the plateau in 4000+ meters...Chile
Up on the plateau in 4000+ meters...Chile


We arrived quite early in the morning to Chile and San Pedro de Atacama, a quiet desert town 45 km from the border to Bolivia. Our Salar de Uyuni tour left us at the border where we also got our exit stamps from Bolivia, then we took a bus to San Pedro where we went through Chilean immigration. The border to Chile was probably the most strict we had passed this far in South America, here our luggage was x-rayed while no one seemed to care what we were carrying on the other border crossings we have passed through on this continent. As it had been a quite exhausting stay in Bolivia with lots of activities, we decided to take it easy. During the first three days in San Pedro we mostly sat in the shade ... read more
San Pedro de Atacama - Star gazing
San Pedro de Atacama - the hot spring in Puritama
San Pedro de Atacama - Biking in the desert


Après une après midi d'attente dans la disgracieuse ville d'Uyuni, nous embarquons dans notre dernier bus Bolivien, heureusement. Piste toute la nuit, vibrations et bruit insupportables, nous ne fermons pas l’œil de la nuit, encore une fois. Arrivés à Villazon, dans l'extrême sud Bolivien, nous apprenons sur place qu'il n'y a pas de bus direction San Pedro de Atacama, notre prochaine destination. En revanche, un bus peut nous amener à Salta en Argentine, d'où il est à priori possible de ralier San Pedro. Arrivés au terminal pour prendre notre bus, on nous apprend qu'il faut en fait traverser la frontière car celui-ci part côté Argentin. Grosse course contre la montre, avec en bonus une fouille de nos sacs à la frontière, heureusement peu approfondie. Notre premier trajet Argentin est de bonne augure : c'est le retour ... read more
 ça flotte sec !


After several fun-filled days, it was time to say goodbye to Sergio, Miri and Elodie as they left to cross the pass to Salta in the Quebrada Country of North-Western Argentina. Left to my own devices, I decided to head north-west out of town to visit the Pukara de Quitor (archaeological site)and explore the quebrada country beyond towards El Tunel, as recommended by Elodie. It's also possible to hire a mountain bike and venture further afield and continue through Valle del Muerte and link with the main road to Calama back into town or vice versa. You can also do horse-trekking in the area. However, after "car-touring" for the past three or so days, I felt like stretching my legs and going on foot. Pukara de Quitor is only 3km out of town, so very accessible. ... read more
Local Camp Ground
Mud Map
Atacaman Culture


The next day, Sergio offered to take us exploring the Antiplanos Lagunas (high altitude lagoons/lakes) located south of San Pedro. Elodie (my roommate) and I jumped at the chance, but Sergi & Miri decided to give it a miss. So, generous as he is, Sergio offered the spare seats to Ashley and Claudia, two American girls staying at his hostel. So, with a full car, we headed out for another day of adventure. First stop was Toconao, a tiny colonial village 38km south of San Pedro, noted for it's buildings made of volcanic rock (in particular the 1750 built church) and alpaca woolcrafts. Nobody much about at this hour, we spent a pleasant half hour or so wandering the side streets and getting a feel for the local way of life. Stocked up on some homemade ... read more
First stop the village of Toconao
Exploring the side streets
Elodie's new playmates


Valle de la Luna, otherwise known as Moon Valley, is located about 13km west of San Pedro. It is part of the Reserva Nacional los Flamencos which is divided into a number of areas. More about that in the next blog. One of the driest places on earth, it is claimed that some areas of the valley haven't seen a drop of rain in hundreds of years. I was lucky enough to join Miri, Sergi and their new friend Sergio in a private "tour" on two consecutive afternoons. What an amazing landscape and a feast for the eyes!! It's not difficult to see how it got it's name. The myriad of colours & textures, especially with the changing light was truly magnificent. The folded ridges of the Cordillera de la Sal, spectacular formations such as El ... read more
Climbing in Valle de Luna
Sue & Miri
Rock Formations


San Pedro de Atacama- a small village of about 5000 local inhabitants was my next destination. Located in what is considered the driest desert on earth, it's a long, 17hr night bus ride from La Serena. Actually the ride was pretty comfortable (I paid more for the salon cama seat), although I can never sleep on buses or planes. Even got tucked into "bed" by the conductor, who not only allocated blankets to everyone but dutifully fussed with them to make sure everyone was snug as a bug!! The long distance buses here in Chile are terrific! The best part of the trip, was the last hour or so. Early morning in the desert- love it. At the first sight of the Valle de Luna, I knew I was going to have a great time exploring ... read more
....and another!
Roadside Graves
Hostal Rural


Last week was spent in the driest desert in the world, the Atacama, with some other EAPers. As dry and dull as the little city of San Pedro was, the surroundings were simply amazing, and honestly, I couldn't have picked a better group of people to do it with. Salt Flats First day at San Pedro, we went to the salt flats nearby. The Atacama salt flats have some of the saltiest water in the world. A bunch of us that went jumped in to the almost freezing cold water. I just remember the faces of the others who looked on as a bunch of students jumped in to the water. The salt flats reminded me of the Dead Sea, except it was dead cold (pun intended) and didn't hurt as much since our bodies were ... read more
30 foot cactus
Llama meat empanada
Hot Springs




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