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Published: February 10th 2023
NOTE: Please forgive the delay. I've been without Internet for the better part of two weeks and will do my best to get caught up ASAP.
With only one night at sea between Puerto Montt, Chile and Puerto Chacabuco, Chile, the ship surely wasn’t expected to arrive at zero-dark-thirty on Wednesday, January 25, 2023. Indeed, MS Volendam was not scheduled to set anchor for tendering operations in Puerto Chacabuco until 10:00 AM with the last tender departing the pier at 5:30 PM. That made for a short day of tourism ashore. Puerto Chacabuco, Chile is situated in the Patagonia Region of South America. Patagonia comprises the southern section of the Andes Mountains with lakes, fjords, temperate rainforests, and glaciers in the west; and deserts, plains and grasslands in the east. The Pacific Ocean lies to the west and the Atlantic Ocean lies to the east with many connecting bodies of water, including the Straits of Magellan, Beagle Channel, and Drake Passage, lying to the south. Patagonia is governed by both Argentina and Chile, and serious border disputes have arisen from time to time. I’m not sure exactly why, but the pampas, Patagonia and Cape Horn have intrigued me since
grade school geography, so how could I forego an opportunity to explore the area on a shore excursion.
The description of the “Northern Patagonia & Coyhaique City” shore excursion from the Holland America web site: “Your tour departs from Puerto Chacabuco on the legendary Carretera Austral. This road was built in 1976 to connect Puerto Montt with Puerto Yungay. You will drive approximately 50 miles through a gloriously rugged landscape to the Simpson River Reserve. Situated in the Simpson Valley, the reserve encompasses 98,844 acres of nature in its purest form. Rounded hills rise to 6,161 feet and are surrounded by silent forests; deep valleys are filled with the rustling of numerous waterfalls. Check out the Visitor Center here -- it affords a dramatic outlook over a scenic combination of river, canyon and valley panoramas. Next, you're headed eastward to the city of Coyhaique, crossing the Andes Mountains at 1,476 feet. The road follows the Simpson River through a narrow valley that is home to an abundance of bird species. A short stop at the Alto Baguales viewpoint provides a superb lookout over Coyhaique before you enter the city. Coyhaique is the capital of the Aysén region, which claims
breathtakingly steep peaks, glaciers, cascading rivers and grassy steppes. Take some time to stroll in the central plaza with its cathedral and browse at the handicraft market. Notes: Wear comfortable walking shoes, sunscreen, a sweater and a raincoat. It is essential that you wear warm, layered clothing to fully enjoy and participate in this excursion; outer layer should be waterproof and windproof. Bring gloves, a warm hat and a scarf. Refreshments will be served en route. This tour is available only on certain sailings and is dependent upon time in port. Your guide will do his/her best to speak English, but please keep in mind that the limited tourism infrastructure here is part of the port's charm, and bear with any language difficulties he/she may encounter. The transportation does not have air conditioning.”
With all of that being said, the drive was nice but not breathtaking, dramatic, glorious nor any of the other enriching adjectives that might have been employed in the descriptor. There may have been “deep valleys (that) are filled with the rustling of numerous waterfalls,” but we only saw one and that one was roadside. Credit to the driver, he did stop going in both directions
so passengers on both sides of the bus had a good photo op through the bus window. Refreshments were served at a restaurant about 40-50 feet downhill on a gravel driveway from the bus discharge location. That’s not a problem for most but was quite an obstacle for a few with noteworthy mobility issues. All in all, I’ve been on significantly better excursions for substantially less money. My advice, stay on the ship.
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