Blogs from Salar de Uyuni, Potosí Department, Bolivia, South America - page 59

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Up mega-early today at 4.15am to see sunrise at a geyser field. Unfortunately a combination of sleepy Frenchmen, the cook wanting to wash her hair and a dodgy sounding engine meant we missed it. The geysers were pretty cool - very noisy and unbelievably smelly. It was so cold though which meant that we only stayed for a few minutes. Next stop was a thermal pool which Ed took a dip in, Gemma just dipping in her feet. Just like a hot bath when you're in it, but 'Oh my God' its cold when you get out in a strong wind and 5km (over 3 miles) above sea level. We'd seen a lot of spectacular sights but saved the best for last. Laguna Verde is similar to yesterday's red lake, but this one is bright green, ... read more
Ed in the thermal pool
Us at Laguna Verde
More realistic than the 3 Virgin Marys next door, this is our dinosaur asking why he is being made extinct


An amazing day of some high altitude sights and 4x4 driving. We saw a stone tree - a rock that has been eroded by the vicious wind into a strange tree-like shape - and several lakes. We broke down for a bit, but this was fixed pretty quickly by the driver with U-HU glue (no AA up here) and, in fact, most of the other vehicles broke down or punctured too. We saw loads of flamingos and tooks loads of pictures. In the end we reached Laguna Colorada, a large lake that is bright red from some type of algae, and settled in to our new but equally basic accommodation. ... read more
The tree
Laguna Colorada


We had a few things to do before setting out for Chile: buying supplies for the journey, getting exit stamps in our passports from the very efficient immigration office and trying to phone Emily, Ed's sister, to say Happy Birthday (she was out but at least we got to hear that Man City had just lost 4-0 to Wigan). Our transport was a fairly knackered Toyota Landcruiser 4x4 with space for 8 cramped seats. The passenger seat had plenty of legroom but the 4 1/2 ft cook claimed that one. We shared the trip with 4 other travellers: Tiffany, an extremely personable 22 year old from Harrow just beginning a year away; Miguel a quirky Spaniard with a reluctance to help translate or, in fact, do anything helpful; and 2 Frenchmen who were about as interesting ... read more
As far as the eye can see
Pass us the salt
Gemma and the 1230 year old cactus


From the brightly coloured parades of Villazon our train wound on through the night, passing through canyons, over rivers and across vast deserts. We rolled through the night passing the dim lights of towns in which ´Butch Cassidy´ and ´The Sundance Kid´ once sought refuge. The moon light lit mountains and molehills alike, creating a more wondrous and mysterious landscape then the sun would ever see. Beside the tracks lonesome figures stood silhoutted, watching another train pass them by, and wandering dogs howled and chased the fleet of uncatchable carriages, until the glow from our carriage windows faded into the darkness, and they were left to follow their own scents home. Several hours had passed since the final film had concluded in the carriage, and the entire travelling party had settled into a quiet slumber. The ... read more
Bagging Salt
Spot the volcano
Another trick


Well, into Bolivia we went. After srrival the first port of call was to be the Salle De Uyni. The largest salt flat in the world (one person told us you can fit the whole of the UK into it - im not so sure - but it sure as hell is big). Anyway the day after arrival in Uyuni was spent looking for a suitable tour guide to take us into the Salle. We plumped on Esmerelda Tours in the end, and i can certainly highly reccomend this to anyone looking to go out to the salt. The tour strated at 11am (very sociable hour really) and the first stop was a village on the periphery where locals process salt directly from the Salt Flat and press it and dry it untill it can literally ... read more
Our group
Cactus Island
The Volcano


Le fameux salar de Uyuni Notre périple commence le lundi soir la journée même où nous arrivons dans la ville chaotique de La Paz. Nous nous précipitons vers Tonito tour, compagnie reconnue dans les guides, pour réserver un tour de 4 jours pour aller au salar. Tout s'arrage à merveille, on réussi même à avoir le train 7 heures au lieu du bus 10 heures sur une route en bouette... Les trains ne sont pas à tous les jours et les heures de transport sont très tard. Donc tout est sous contrôle avec Tonito tour, on a notre tour de 4 jours all included sauf 2 entrées de parc et notre eau. Youuhoo ! On quitte donc le lendemain matin pour notre environ 10 heures de route pour Uyuni. Ça passe quand même assez vite, on ... read more
A la plage de sel
J'ai rétrécie !
Je change de profession !


La Bolivie n'est pas bonne pour nous! Après nos problèmes d'argent, après avoir eu affaires à des personnes moins que sympathiques, nous voilà aux prises avec la mafia des tours organisés de Uyuni. Pas particulièrement dangereuse, mais plutôt malhonnête. Donc, durant les quatre derniers jours, nous avons fait un tour organisé en 4x4 dans le sud ouest bolivien, région surtout reconnue pour sa variété de paysages lunaires et apocalyptiques. La dernière fois, je vous disais que nous avions booké un tour à partir de La Paz avec la compagnie Toñito Tours, recommandée dans notre guide Footprint. Ne voulant avoir aucun souci pendant quelques jours, on a demandé à la dame de tout réserver: le transport de La Paz vers Uyuni, le tour, et le transport de Uyuni vers La Paz. Elle nous fait un prix et ... read more
Le Salar de Uyuni
Descend de mon bras Marie-Claude!
Isla de Pescado

South America » Bolivia » Potosí Department » Salar de Uyuni September 5th 2006

Adter visiting the silver mines in Potosí (really saddening to see the conditions that some people have to work in), we left for Uyuni by bus. I'm sure it's less than 100k between the 2 towns, but it's all on unpaved Andean roads and it took 7 hours! As with all these types of journeys, people get on the bus along the way, pay less and then sit in the aisle. The bizarre phenomenen though is that they sit on their bag or with legs crossed, and can then fall asleep bolt upright. All the people bustling past doesn't even seem to wake them. Useful technique. We went on a 3 day tour from Uyuni to Chile. We were in a jeep with 2 other couples, who were really nice and good fun, so it made ... read more
Cactus
Flamencos
Laguna Colarado

South America » Bolivia » Potosí Department » Salar de Uyuni September 3rd 2006

We arrived in Uyuni after 8 hours on two chilly, smelly and generally grotty buses from Sucre. We managed to catch half an hour in Potosi on the way which is if not the highest, nearly the highest town in the world (apparently somewhere in Tibet is officially). It was, as could be expected, flipping cold. The giant silver mine mountain was pretty impressive though. Our first impression of Uyuni was that we had accidentally stumbled into some Russian backwater. Its pretty grim looking and again pretty cold. We checked into a nice hotel though and proceeded to search for a tour to the Salar de Uyuni and the surounding area. There are 72 tour agencies that offer tours in Uyuni so you can imagine the standard is quite variable. After being offered an extortionate US$85 ... read more
The Salt Hotel
Flamingos
Rock Tree


As previously mentioned after arriving in the southern Bolivian town of Tupiza we booked a four day jeep tour of the Salt Lakes in Uyuni which proved to be absolutely brilliant and probably the best thing I have done on this trip so far. Awakening nice and early we were greeted by our guide Wilf and our cook for the 4 days Julia, who couldnt speak a word of english between them. Coupled with our appauling grasp of spanish this was surely to be an entertaining few days. The fun really began however when after no more than 10 minutes Leeroy realised he needed the toilet. Rather embarrassed by his weak bladder he finally asked Wilf to stop the van and told him he needed a piss. For the next 4 days whenever one of asked ... read more




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