Back to buonos aires

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Geo: -34.6118, -58.4173

Wished we could have stayed another night but had to get back to Buonos Aires. There was a mild dispute about luggage at the airport as we had 4 pieces and they thought we should only have 2. This was soon settled and they took the luggage on board. We flew LAN airlines and chose Premium Economy so that we could take more luggage on board. A very helpful young man insisted on showing me to my seat and stowing my hand luggage even though I was only in row 3! BA could take a few tips from LAN, the service was very good.
It was wonderful flying over the Andes still with glaciers on the tops. They are the highest range in South America and the second highest after the Himalayas. At the airport, instead of going out to find a local taxi we stopped at the first transport desk and for 400 pesos we had a lady escort us out of the airport to meet a driver who led us to the car and loaded up the luggage. We do tend to opt for the easy options but this was a better price than finding our own cab and no hassle.
The contrast in Argentina with Chile is quite marked. Chile has many poor areas but it does seem more prosperous than Argentina. The drive into the city reveals many closely built cheap buildings some half finished but still lived in,, very reminiscent of Cairo. At traffic lights there are chaps offering to clean windscreens as well as people juggling or trying to sell stuff. There are many wide roads in the city centre of Buonos Aires but the use of the lanes is very much at the drivers discretion! If there was a city centre speed limit, we were never able to discern it.
We eventually arrive back at the Park Hyatt where ther are many flunkies to open the doors and do nothing much but be very attentive. As we had stayed there before the welcome back was more effusive. I still prefer the Santiago Hyatt as this one doesnt have a pool but is situated in a nice area. The hotel warns all guests not to wear jewellry or watches when walking around and to watch handbags etc, but at no time did we have a problem. We met a couple of Italians who had been there for 4 days and ran out of things to see after 2. We agree- this city is like an old lady in need of a face lift. Plaza de Mayo is the main square but looks dilapidated apart from the Presidential building. This is the square where demonstrations are held especially by the mothers whose sons disappeared in a previous regime. The cathedral is 19th century neo classical and just doesnt have the grace and beauty of European cathedrals, but then we shouldnt expect this of South America.
We walked from the Plaza to San Telmo, which is the poor area of town but meant to be attractive with cobbled streets and antique shops. There were restaurants and bars so we stopped at Brasserie Petanque, which has a lively bar and good wine. After this we tried finding the Museum of Modern Art but this is now closed despite being in the tourist book. The Opera House is also undergoing renovation and this will take some time.
This is the city of Tango so a show is an essential tourist trip. We chose Alviejo Almacen. For 340 pesos each ie about £55 at the going rate, we were picked up by a bus from the hotel and returned after. The dinner with half a bottle of wine each was also included. This was 3 courses- a soup or pate followed by a huge plate of steak and french fries. It was tasty steak but too large a portion for us. There was a choice of desserts but we only had ice cream. The coffee was awful but I am not a coffee drinker and we probably had more than half a bottle of wine each so couldnt complain . After dinner we moved over to the theatre across the road for the show which also included 2 glasses of wine. The dancing was superb, a whirl of legs with the men in 30's suits and the ladies in tight skimpy dresses slit to the thigh and 3 inch heels. At least 3 of these ladies were in their 50s but had the legs and bodies of 20 year olds. Tango is obviously the way to keep fit! The accompanying musicians- piano, 2 accordions, base and 2 violins were very good. Interspersed with the dancing was an aging male singer and a glamorous lady with hair piled high, long evening dress jewels etc who was obviously in her 70s but had a strong voice and lots of character. There was also a band playing what was probably native indian type music with strange instruments but they played the spaghetti western music, which was excellent. A very enjoyable night out which at 8pm and ended after midnight.

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