A DIVE LIKE NO OTHER

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A DIVE LIKE NO OTHER

Ushuaia, Tierra del Fuego





The zodiac skimmed the smooth surface of the Beagle Channel off the tip of the Argentine coast, leaving a beautiful wake; spray splashed over the sides of the rubber pontoons. Silvina and I followed Carlos’ example and pulled our dive hoods over our heads like caps to protect our ears from the wind. This is much more comfortable for the twenty minute ride to our dive site than wearing them the normal way.



I was surprised to see a dock in the middle of nowhere. We tied to it and Carlos began searching through the snow under our seats for our dive weights. My heart sank when he pulled out a knotted old harness and told me it was mine. I just discarded my own weight harness at home and have gone back to my integrated weights (weights in the BC pockets), but it was his boat, his gear, and his method. He told me he was going to make me a bit negative and gave me a total of 12 kilos of weight…almost exactly what I wear in Washington. He had me don my fins, mask, and tank. Then he turned on the air. Air escaped. Of course…just a little problem, that went on for ten minutes. Finally I took off gloves, mask, fins and tank and inspected the regulator, removed it for the nth time, replaced it, and it still leaked. At last Carlos removed the O-ring, turned it over and refitted it; success! No leak. I once again put on all my gear.



I did a backward roll into the water. And waited for Silvina. And then waited ten more minutes for Carlos to finish suiting up. Did I say it was cold? Silvina and I went down near the kelp bed. It was magical. She, new to dry suits went up and down in the water column like a yo-yo, her fins stirring up the deep sediment of the sea floor into blooming, impenetrable clouds of dirt. I took a few photos of her mid-water and then I moved ten or twelve yards from her as Carlos gave her a quick dry suit introduction. I followed them from a distance, entranced by the beauty of the kelp forest and the crabs. Who would think that crabs could be so enthralling? I saw at least five varieties. Thank goodness for the photo opportunities for it took my mind off the numbing cold.



Immediately following Silvina’s dry suit orientation, as Carlos led us into the kelp, I realized my right arm was totally drenched. The wet drysuit rubbed against my armpit like a woodworker’s rasp. I honestly thought about calling the dive right then, but decided to tough it out for just a few more minutes. I kept Carlos and Silvina in sight and continued diving and snapping photos.



The visibility was amazing and the color mesmerizing. At the onset of the dive I saw the first nudibranch since starting my dive adventure in May. I was delighted. They are truly cold water creatures. Then I started photographing king crabs. They were abundant, and their bright red color when my strobes flashed was a thrilling surprise, one that I never tired of. As Carlos had warned us, there were no fish in these waters. I wonder if it is because of the large populations of sea lions in the area. I saw only the occasional tiny bottom fish flitting around, certainly too challenging to photograph since changing settings was problematic in the cold. I was surprised that there wasn’t a single sea lion in this extensive kelp forest.



I started having a little buoyancy trouble when we turned back toward the boat. I photographed a king crab hanging on a kelp trunk, and it didn’t change color. Later I asked Carlos why it was brown. He said it was a female. On the way back I was busy trying to catch up to my buddies and didn’t have time to regret not seeing any of the multitudes of sea lions that ply these waters. When I reached the boat I was struggling to get my feet under me and get upright in the water. Carlos was helping Silvina out of her gear and said I could continue to dive in the kelp bed. I didn’t even consider it. I knew I was done. I was shaking from the cold. It is the only time I have ever exited the water with half a tank remaining, and not complained.



Thank goodness Carlos was there to help. My hands were so cold I could not even unhook my camera strap from my BC. Carlos took the camera, unclasped my shoulder strap and removed the tank, and my fins. I was able to climb the ladder and pull myself into the boat. Barely.



I must have been blue with cold because both Carlos and Silvina asked me if I was all right. Several times. I replied that I was drenched and frozen, but Carlos took the boat around the bay to see the island with hundreds of seals warming themselves on the rocks – I envied them. The alpha males don’t even look like sea lions. Their heads are completely different and they are twice the size of the others. The cormorants which shared the refuge looked like toy soldiers with peaked black hats, standing in rows which went on forever, or so it seemed. Unfortunately my camera fogged up as soon as we got out of the water so I couldn’t take any photos.



Carlos said he would keep the boat speed down to limit the wind chill on the way back to the harbor, but I was glad when he sped up. I could hardly wait to get back to the dock. I staggered toward the door of the shop. Carlos threw the BC’s, fins and regulators in the snow outside, then led us back up to the restrooms and turned on the shower, more to help him with rinsing the suits than as a courtesy to our comfort. Silvina said she could not feel the heat through the thickness of the suit, except on her feet. I grasped at any little change of temperature and enjoyed letting the warm water drench my face and neck.



Inside the dive shop was blessed heat. I stripped off my soggy clothes in front of the heater. Everything I wore was totally drenched, from my neck seal to above the knees. I donned dry long johns, my hiking pants, a sweater, and put on my coat and hat. I dried my soggy socks in about ten minutes, the heater was putting off such heat. Carlos gave me a cup of tea. Silvina and he had hot coffee. As I rolled up my wet clothes we shared dive stories and revisited our Ushuaia dive. It was very pleasant.



Our dive depth was only 45 feet and I was underwater for 38 minutes; the last ten minutes were numbingly cold. I had a great dive despite the lousy dry suit seals. My only regret was not being able to do a second dive. My bucket list now includes a return trip to Ushuaia with my own dry suit. It will have to be in winter again. The visibility underwater was wonderful and the scenery above was spectacular.



And somewhere in that kelp forest are those elusive sea lions...at La Fin del Mundo.

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Photos

Kelp Forest
Amazing light in this peaceful realm.

Another Photo Opportunity
Feet up so I won't disturb the deep silt below.

Sea Star
A medley of colorful sea life.

Sea Star
This one looks like an empanada.

More Color
Many sponges. Double click on the photos for full screen view.

King Crab
He looks like he is napping on a kelp hammock.

Orange Sea Star
The huge kelp leaves hide other sea life.

The Traveling Diver
Color coordinated.

Scallops and another Crab
Notice the eyes, the tiny black dots that circle the shell; they aren't too mobile so they can look behind them for predators.

King Crab Heyday
Everywhere I turned there was another King.