Blogs from Santa Cruz, Argentina, South America - page 5


FACES OF PATAGONIA: When the best laid plans come unstuck if you find No Hay. "Serendipity" is Travelblog's middle name. Where wonderful things happen by accident...awesome finds when you are not looking for them...lucky to do so...quests leading to the delightfully unexpected. Horace Walpole first penned the meaning in 1754 describing how princes in Serendip (Sri Lanka) were “always making discoveries, by accidents and sagacity, of things which they were not in quest of”. So used correctly the use of the word requires the wisdom to make the connection that something great has happened by fortuitous occurrence. So I got to a Travelbloggy kinda way. Is a change of plans brought about by an unforeseen event, maybe a disaster, that leads to missing your quest entirely, but you have a great time that serendipity? ... read more

South America » Argentina » Santa Cruz » El Calafate March 4th 2014

Hi all. Apologies for the lack of updates. Been out from Torres del Paine (TdP) for three days now but have been filling the hours with rather a lot of living instead of typing. This'll be a short update and perhaps a longer one will appear once I've made it home and if I manage to find an evening free to meander back through the memories of this trip. So, a brief summary will have to suffice: 1. Arrived Punta Arenas (PA), found FD already installed in hostal. Shower, out into town to find the bus company and book a bus to Puerto Natales (PN) the next day, then random dinner consisting mostly of confusion about what we ordered, then sleep. 2. Rise and wander around town a bit, pick up a couple of last minute ... read more

South America » Argentina » Santa Cruz » El Chaltén March 3rd 2014

Day 12 Another early (8 am) start with a long hike (24 km's) to the base of Mt Fitz Roy. Short drive to the entrance of Los Glaciares National Park along a gravel road running alongside a vast valley of the Rio Blanco river. The trees along the valley cliffs are just starting to turn yellow and in a months time apparently turn a deep red before dropping for winter. The walk is generally flat following the river with a sheltered forest at the start before opening up into more open an exposed areas with great views of another significant glacier (Pridras Blancas). There are over 300 glaciers in the park with only the very large ones named. The end of the trail up was a strenuous 400 mtr rise in altitude over 2 km's along ... read more
Glacier on way to Cerro Torro
Normal Fitz Roy on clear day
Top of the Fitz Roy climb

PATAGONIA: The F*ckido Stupido...The World's Stupidest Man. I've been called many names in my life. But when my one true love is spitting & cursing at me with wrath and indignation...that only makes my smile broader...Am I lacking intelligence? Or is there one hell of a surprise hidden under my manic grin? ***** After a couple of days driving in the most spectacular locales of our trip to and out of mountain passes between Chile and Argentina...rarely visited regions of the wildest and most remote wilderness areas of Patagonia...4WD heaven...photographer's heaven...rocking to the best rock & blues on the planet...leading my love to just one more highlight...and then she loses it like never before. What's wrong? What's a fella gotta do to give a gal a good time? No one can say I'm not trying!!! ... read more

South America » Argentina » Santa Cruz » El Chaltén March 1st 2014

DAY 11 Today was another early (8 am) start for a 200 km drive across the arid pampas to El Chalten as a base for the next 3 days. As we have the minimum 8 travellers we have our own comfortable 12 seat mini van. Between each flying leg we have our own guide but on trekking days we also have an extra local guide skilled in all geological, botany and history aspects which has been fantastic. We will have our current guide (Martina) for 8 days before we fly to Puerto Montt. El Chalten is a very small town situated at the top end of the Los Glaciares National Park. The town is relatively new and initially setup as a base for monitoring geo/political issues when relations were not so stable with Chile. The town ... read more

South America » Argentina » Santa Cruz » El Calafate February 28th 2014

Day 10 I know we have some pretty special days coming up but today was quite incredible. Woke up to clear blue skies & just a zephyr of a breeze. Top temp forecast to be 15 but feels much warmer. No need for all those layers of clothes we have with us. Full day involved 1 hr drive each way to Los Glaciares National Park & specifically the Perito Moreno Glacier with 4 hrs exploring the glacier from every angle. Understanding a little of the geology and dynamics of the glacier makes it even more amazing. This glacier is unique amongst other glaciers in that rather than being formed by frozen water it's formed by daily constant snow falling on the higher peaks putting pressure on the snow below until it is unable to be compressed ... read more
Choke Point on right

South America » Argentina » Santa Cruz » El Calafate February 27th 2014

DAY 9 Rain overnight & woke to heavy cloud & misty rain. Our first so far so very lucky to have it on a moving day as all we had to do was fly to El Calafate. Calafate's only reason to exist is to act as the gateway to the Patagonian Los Glaciares National Park including the famous Perito Moreno Glacier. Having said that the town itself is very tidy & modern with every tourist facility on the Main Street of town (Ave Gen. San Martin) including many good restaurants. It really has a nice feel to it. We briefly explored the town and the waterbirds on the Laguna Nimez Nature Reserve and the vast expanse of Lake Argentino. The lake has an incredible blue/green colour due to sun reflecting on the glacial water sediments that ... read more
Chilian Flamingo's

South America » Argentina » Santa Cruz February 23rd 2014

El Chaltén - Calafate - Puerto Natales El Chaltén impresiona porque es una ciudad en medio de el Parque Nacional Los Glaciares, y desde el que se ve el impresionante Fitz Roy. Los Argentinos dicen que es la ciudad más joven del mundo y es posible, porque se creó a finales del siglo XX con el objetivo de establecer una población permanente cerca de una zona de glaciares de todavía sin repartir entre Chile y Argentina (un rectángulo que aparece en los mapas muy cerca de esta zona). En cualquier caso, decidimos no quedarnos a pasar la noche en El Chaltén porque no ibamos a hacer ningún treking ya que habíamos tenido suficientes vistas del Fitz Roy durante los dos días anteriores. Compramos billetes para el autobús hasta el Calafate ya que ibamos un poco justos ... read more

South America » Argentina » Santa Cruz » El Chaltén February 22nd 2014

Itinerario: 19/02 - Villa O'Higgins - Bahía Bahamondes (7,5 kms) 20/02 - Bahía Bahamondes - Candelario Mancilla - Laguna del Desierto (4h en barco + 22 kms) 21/02 - Laguna del desierto - Camping Estancia Ricanor (1/2h en barco + 18 kms de ripio) 22/02 - Camping Estancia Ricanor - El Chaltén (19 kms, ripio) En Villa O'Higgins decidimos pasar la noche en el mismo puerto para no tener contratiempos por la mañana y nos despertaron los primeros coches que llegaban a preparar dos de las embarcaciones cinco embarcaciones que allí había en ese pequeño puerto. Embarcamos las alforjas y las bicicletas por separado y zarpamos. El recorrido nos lleva... read more

South America » Argentina » Santa Cruz » El Calafate February 21st 2014

From city to jungle to desert to mountains to glaciers, Argentina is amazing. I knew that I had booked a ‘nicer’ hotel in El Calafate but I had no idea how nice- if we could have moved in forever, we would have. When we walked in to our massive room and looked out the window at the amazing view of Lago Argentino, I never wanted to leave! There wasn’t a lot to do in El Calafate but we didn’t care, we were there for Perito Moreno! 5km wide, 60m above sea level, up to 100m below sea level, and 250 km2, this massive ice block is an incredible beast of nature. Perito Moreno is a stable glacier, meaning that it freezes as much as it melts, therefore it is not receding like most glaciers. Being from ... read more
View of Lago Argentino from our hotel room
Busy bees in the lavender bushes

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