Blogs from Santa Cruz, Argentina, South America - page 6

Well, I made it. I’m on the plane. It did all work out, but not without hiccups along the way. The bus driver helped me the most. Through a lot of body language and the word “aeropurto.” I asked about a dozen times, “Aeropurto by seis en mañana?” He would smile and nod. It was a confident nod, like he really knew what I was asking. But still, he just could’ve done the smile and nodding this just to shut the nagging white girl up. By the third or fifth time throughout the ride, I asked. He asked to see my ticket to the bus. I didn’t understand why, but I game it to him anyway. “Viente tres.” He was reading my seat number. He said something else that I didn’t understand, but something along the ... read more

Arriviamo ad El Chalten belle fresche, dopo la notte alla gelida stazione di El Calafate. Il tempo fa schifo. Freddo, pioggia, grigio. Il vento patagonico soffia abbastanza da produrmi rasta, ma non da caricarsi le nuvole. È la vigilia di Natale, e che vigilia sarebbe senza casa Turriziani? Breve collegamento skype, giusto il tempo di sentirsi 3/4 litigate familiari, beccarsi la dovuta dose di insulti e salutare zii e cuginetti, appollaiati uno sopra all'altro di fronte allo schermo. Ma il Natale speciale non finisce qui. Perché se un destino c'è, quello che ci lega è assistere assieme ad alcuni degli spettacoli più belli della terra...e dopo il Nepal, ecco le Zie! Con una settimana di anticipo rispetto al previsto, mi si parano davanti all'improvviso, capeggiate dall'ing. Franchi ed un manipolo di baldi giovani del nord. Ma ... read more

In the rain Shadow east of the Andes the steppe reminds me of a cross between the tussock of the South Island High Country, a Yorkshire grouse moor and the Desert Road near Ruapehu. It certainly has the windswept feel of the Desert Road, but it's a genuine desert with only 250mm of rain a year. It is a land of wide open spaces, big skies and emptiness. El Calafate has a frontier town feel, there are roads and tin roofed buildings, some quite large, but the barren scrub continues through the town as if someone has scattered monopoly houses on the landscape. El Calafate is closer to the equator than London, but with only Tierra del Feugo between here and Antarctica the wind can be bitter, even in summer. A short drive west are the ... read more

El Chaltan For not having existed a mere 30 years ago, this little village has a well-established reputation as the trekking capital of Argentina, and it deserves it. We spent three full days here, with John tackling the biggest hikes including a 12 mile trek to the base viewing of Mt. Fitz Roy and a scramble to the top of a smaller peak over a snow field. Together the three of us hiked the 12 mile round trip to Largo Torres with hopes of seeing Cerro Torres. A couple of notes about El Chaltan. Fitz Roy, the peak that towers above town, is outlined on all the Patagonia clothing, their trade mark. The town is pretty much cut off from the world--internet spotty at best, very few places take credit cards (the readers do not work ... read more

Today was our last non-travel day on the dialogue. How quickly it went! I can't believe it's over, and yet I still have a full month of traveling left before me! We had two options for activities today. For those of us that wanted to spend about $150-175 and trek on Perito Moreno, which we drove by yesterday, they could do that and leave at about 11. The majority did this. For those of us (of which there 7, including me) that did not want to do that, we got to go help with the local dog shelter's adoption day. Which basically meant holding and playing with puppies and talking with locals who came to look at them. It was possibly the best afternoon I've ever had. 9 puppies, all wanting cuddles? Yes please. Before getting ... read more