Blogs from Santa Cruz, Argentina, South America - page 4

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South America » Argentina » Santa Cruz » Río Gallegos February 8th 2018

I am lucky enough to have family at the southernmost point of the continent. After saying goodbye to Marty (who would continue his ride up the Argentine coast, back to Santiago to see his son) and Rob (who was flying back to Calgary) I took the bus to Rio Gallegos. My uncle John Blake and aunt Monica have lived in the Falkland Islands and Patagonia for over 50 years, running sheep farms. They eventually bought their own, across the river from Rio Gallegos, and retired there. My cousin Steve now runs the farm after his father passed away in 2014. It covers some 33,000 ha ( 82,000 acres ) with some 12,500 sheep, more or less. The visit was educational, as well as a lot of fun. Steve is coming off a career with the West ... read more
The main house at Killik Aike farm.
Houses and offices at the farm, behind a creek.
Valley with sheep grazing

South America » Argentina » Santa Cruz » El Calafate February 4th 2018

Motorcycles move to the head of the line. No-one said it, but we were all thinking it (Ron, Marty and I) as we entered Glaciers National Park (Argentina) and rolled past large designated look out points full of buses and minivans over the 20 km between the entrance and the final position closest to the glacier. Forget the gradual buildup. Hit the point that you most want to see first. Then go slowly back. It worked like a charm. Crowds were thin when we reached the small parking area by the cafeteria and the metal walkways leading down to the glacier. Elated, we parked and advanced on the prize. What I had not realized is that visiting a glacier with men whose life's work is bound up in the dynamics of ice, water and rock, is ... read more
Glacier from the final parking spot
Glacier head on, with sign
The old riders of the purple sage

South America » Argentina » Santa Cruz » El Calafate February 3rd 2018

When we reflect on our year away it could very well be that we enjoyed our 2 weeks in Argentina's Patagonia the most. The time we spent here was all about the landscapes and the isolated towns that we visited. Beginning in Bariloche, a town right on the northern edge of Patagonia, we immediately got a taste of what was to come. It was one of those places we knew we would love before we even stepped off the bus! Surrounded by lakes and snow capped mountains we couldn't wait to explore it's surrounds. And what better way than by cycling the Circuito Chico, a 25km loop around stunning lakes, mountains and forests. It wasn't long before our lack of fitness started to show. One of us may have had to get off the bike a ... read more
Incredible view of the Perito Moreno Glacier, El Calafate
Laguna Toncek at Refugio Frey, Bariloche
Our last view of Cerro Fitz Roy from the back window of a bus!

South America » Argentina » Santa Cruz » El Calafate February 3rd 2018

Ron and Marty had parked just off Ruta 40, and stood looking out over Lake Cardiel, an unusual feature in this flat dry land. All of a sudden with a roar and a wave of dust, and we were joined by a motorcycle tour. Four male riders of a certain (ie my) age, and a white pickup driven by a woman, who was somehow overseeing the Tour. They had subcontracted with Motoaventura (who had rented me my bike in Osorno) to provide them with BMW motorcycles and the follow vehicle. We greeted each other. They discovered we didn't speak German. We discovered they weren't much interested in speaking English, so we went back to talking to the group leader, Angela, who was fluent in both languages. The riders turned out to be Swiss and rich. Their ... read more
Machines at ready
Looking out at Lake Cardiel
Lenticular clouds of Lake Cardiel

South America » Argentina » Santa Cruz February 2nd 2018

The paved road stretched long and straight before us. With the wind at our backs (and sides) we blew down through the high Argentine plateau to General Gregorio. A few miles out of Antiguos, I met a couple of Canadian riders at a gas station where I was to get on Ruta 40. We had met before on the ferry out of Puyuhuapi. We joined forces and headed South together. The weather was perfect, the road was empty, and we just whipped along the plain, dropping down every now and then to cross a shallow valley with green grass, maybe a stream or a lake. All the houses, trees and animals are hidden from up on the mesa, and spring into view as one enters the valley. The town was simple and attractive. It had the ... read more
Guanacos were everywhere
And they can jump
The plain went on for miles

South America » Argentina » Santa Cruz » Los Antiguos February 1st 2018

When I looked over the different sections of the route, as designed by the Ride Adventure company, I noticed that today's run, at 120 km, was by far the shortest. I wondered why. Now I know. While the scenery was spectacular, as always, today’s trip was all about the road. It wound along the southern shore of this, the second largest lake in South America, a winding slash carved out of hills that drop straight down to the lake. Sometimes swooping down to water level, sometimes climbing high to the plateau, the ride provided all the conceivable challenges a gravel road can offer – except for one. It was dry. If it had been wet, I would still be out there. Have you ever noticed that little orange @ indicator light that sometimes goes on when ... read more
Morning, looking East along the lake
Goat right of way
Lake associated with a mine, a thousand feet above Lake Gral Carrera


Continuation de ma découverte d'El Calafate avec l'incontournable´Glacier Perito Moreno. Direction le Parc National Los Glaciares et une fois acquité du droit d'entrée, poursuite dans le Parc jusqu'au Port de Bajo las Sombras pour embarquer pour une navigation de rapprochement du glacier (ce qu'on appelle le Safari Nautico). L´après-midi, temps libre sur les passerelles aménagées pour voir le glacier plus en détail. Petit hic, le temps n'est pas de la partie et pour la première fois je sors les gants et le coupe-vent. Dommage qu'il ait plu mais la visite du Glacier Perito Moreno reste un incontournable pour tout voyageur passant par El Calafate. Au retour, le bus m'arrêtera à l'entrée de l'accès au Glaciarium (musée des glaces) pour un connaissance approndie de la naissance d'un glacier et pour une multitude d'informations sur le champ de ... read more
Arc en ciel
Première vue du Glacier, c'est un peu couvert...
Ca s'éclaircie, un peu

South America » Argentina » Santa Cruz » El Calafate December 27th 2017

Aujourd'hui je suis invité à connaître l'Estancia El Galpon del Glaciar. Superbes paysages, bien variés, avec la steppe (forcément), le Lago Argentino et un étang où il est possible d'observer les oiseaux et super accueil par Victoria. En plus, comme je suis tout seul, j'aurai droit à une promenade à cheval et une visite de l'Estancia en privatif. Après la promenade, Victoria me fait découvrir l'Estancia et la grange de tonte des moutons. Très belle matinée et quelques regrets de ne pas avoir proposé cette Estancia à mes clients... Pour ceux que ça intéresse, il est également possible de loger à l'Estancia. L'après-midi sera consacré à la découverte d´El Calafate et au repos car depuis le départ, je n'ai pas vraiment eu le temps de lever le pied.... read more
Paysage typique de Patagonie
Randonnée à cheval
Perdus dans la steppe

South America » Argentina » Santa Cruz » El Calafate December 26th 2017

Aujourd'hui, lever très matinal pour aller visiter l'Estancia Cristina, une des plus anciennes estancias de la région. Pour s'y rendre il faut traverser le Lago Argentino. La bonne nouvelle c'est que le bateau rapide est en panne et on aura droit à 8h de navigation sur le lac (4h à l'aller et 4h au retour) !!! La mauvaise nouvelle c'est qu'on va se taper 8h de navigation et on aura donc peu de temps sur place !!! Toutefois le trajet est intéressant car il permet d'observer plusieurs glaciers appartenant au champ de glace sud de Patagonie d'une longueur de 350 km et troisième calotte glaciaire au monde après l´Antarctique et le Groenland. Et puis, première pour moi, jaurai l'occasionde voir des icebergs de près... et le soleil est de la partie, ce qui ne gâche rien. ... read more
Lago Argentino
Lago Argentino
Lago Argentino

South America » Argentina » Santa Cruz » El Calafate December 25th 2017

Joyeux Noël à tous !!! Mon cadeau cette année puisque j'ai été sage, ce sera une randonnée à cheval dans la steppe de Patagonie. Je suis invité par Esteban le propriétaire de l'Estancia Rio Mitre, située à quelques kilomètres de l'entrée du Parc National Los Glaciares. Une belle journée de découvertes ponctuée par un asado de cordero (mouton grillé), la spécialité du coin. Vivement la nouvelle année...... read more
Estancia Rio Mitre
Les Bretons sont vraiment partout...
Estancia Rio Mitre




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