It seems perhaps I have saved the most special part of the Bertie adventure to the end. The patagonian Andes are indescribably beautiful, so I'm not sure how to describe the past couple of weeks. Arriving in southern Chile after the long haul from Quito called for a big re-adjustment; culturally, socially, environmentally and economically. Also, there I was thinking my Spanish was fine, my Spanish is very gooood... I learn it from a booook. and then I heard Chilean Spanish. Que? Patagonia is a vast, bleak, and at times strikingly beautiful bit of the planet. The clear flight from Puerto Montt to Punta Arenas over the icefields gave me goosebumps. The landing, on the other hand, left me feeling about 10 years older. It does get pretty windy here, but on the whole, I think
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