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Published: November 25th 2006
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Glacier (from flight)
Not sure which one... there are so many! It seems perhaps I have saved the most special part of the Bertie adventure to the end. The patagonian Andes are indescribably beautiful, so I'm not sure how to describe the past couple of weeks.
Arriving in southern Chile after the long haul from Quito called for a big re-adjustment; culturally, socially, environmentally and economically. Also, there I was thinking my Spanish was fine, my Spanish is very gooood... I learn it from a booook. and then I heard Chilean Spanish. Que?
Patagonia is a vast, bleak, and at times strikingly beautiful bit of the planet. The clear flight from Puerto Montt to Punta Arenas over the icefields gave me goosebumps. The landing, on the other hand, left me feeling about 10 years older. It does get pretty windy here, but on the whole, I think I've been really lucky with the weather.
After a very social time in Ecuador, I passed a couple of days in Puerto Natales feeling a little concerned at the mix of travellers. Most in couples or trekking groups, many in their 50s, and an intimidatingly high concentration of gore-tex pants with reinforced seats, tech boots, and poofter sticks. Soon enough I did
chance upon some other solo viajeros, and have been fine for good random company since.
Here I met the English rose Emma, who joined me for a couple of days of the heavenly 5-day walk (the "W") in the Torres del Paine national park, otherwise known as 'hikers disneyland'. Words and photos can't really convey the scenery, the incomparable light and contrasts (with which my poor little camera didn't seem to cope), the feel of the air, the taste of the water, the sights of avalanches, icebergs, glaciers, glowing blue lakes, or the stench from my socks.
I finished the walk with aching muscles, sore feet, and with some lovely trekkers whom I have seen often since along the gringo trail, and as a fellow gringo have joined for many milanesas and superb, cheap, and preservative-free Chilean and Argentine wine.
Next stop on the trail was across to Argentina, and a horrible tourist town, El Calafate; host to the spectacular Perito Moreno glacier. That one you keep seeing in all the brochures. Feeling a little skeptical (hey what else is new) I joined a new travel buddy for a jolly bus ride and tour to the glacier
itself. It did take some time in the cold for my senses to really comprehend the thing. But when it did finally sink in, I was mesmerised. I sat at the lookout for about 2 hours, just looking, listening, freezing. Occasionally a crack, a bang, and a piece of ice the size of a bus would fall from a tower into lake Argentina. Unbelievable. Almost falling asleep in the cold, I finally got back onto the bus back to town for the best hot chocolate I've ever had (or paid US$4 for).
Busting to do some more hiking, I bussed to El Chalten, a new little town (of only 20 years) nearby the impressive Chaiten mountain range. In not-so-impressive weather, I bided my time with a couple of impressive beef burgers, and a Roald Dahl book, and waited for what must have been the most stunning day in Chalten's short history.
On Monday, the boots were on in a flash, and off I bolted (with dozens of others) to Mt. Fitzroy. And once again, there I was with Tom (US), Scott (Canada) and maybe 60 others at another stunning lookout. The sun shone with little interruption from cloud
Emma
and Paine Grande. or wind from 6am to 9pm. It was cool, dry, heavenly. The next day was almost as great, and I managed to get a peek at Cerro Torre in the other valley before a snow storm came over.
Two days of great day hiking had passed, also far too much evening wine, and I said farewell (for now) to Tom and Scott. After 3 bus journeys over a day and a half, I've made my way north to where I now sit, Puerto Madryn, on the Atlantic coast. Internet is cheaper and certainly faster here, so I'm finally able to blog again. Sorry for the gap.
It has been sinking in rather heavily upon me that my travels are nearing an end. I'd never have imagined this lust for travel would still be with me after nearly nine months on the road. I truly feel like I could keep going for another nine. Hmmm.
Tomorrow I'll take a look at Peninsula Valdez, a viewing site for the southern right-whale, some penguins and elephant seals, then carry on north to Buenos Aires and beyond...
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