Last Tango in Buenos Airies

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As the song says: 'Suicide is painless'. Well, as it happens, so was disembarkation!! The last disembarkation day in Buenos Aires was not so much painless…but it was suicide!!!! Apparently 5 large cruise ships were in dock with approximately 10,000 passengers disembarking. Immigration couldn't cope (perhaps that's why they were noticed by their absence today!!) The baggage hall couldn't cope. Trying to claim your luggage was like finding a needle in a haystack. The customs procedure created massive queues as 100%!o(MISSING)f luggage had to be fed through the x-ray machine and finally taxis. Ah yes, taxis! Gods answer to the leech incarnate. It was a simple case of supply and demand. There were actual reported fistfights to be next in line to be charged what the taxi could get away with.

Waiting in the Wheelhouse Bar, reserved for Platinum and Elite passengers, Purple 5 was called at 09:30, only 30 minutes later than scheduled. The shuttle bus took us to the cruise terminal and within 5 minutes we were in line to pass through Customs. 10 minutes later we were in line for a taxi that would take us to our down town hotel, the Icaro Suites, that we'd call home for the next 2 nights.

We were told by Princess that a taxi to down town Buenos Aires would cost US$15 and to the International Airport US$65. It still sounded a bit steep as our hotel was only about 2 ½ miles from the port but £10 it was if we could get to our hotel relatively unscathed. Princess also advised their passengers to go to a prepaid counter before getting in the taxi otherwise agree a price before committing.

While I was still looking around for the prepaid counter a man approach; ‘Taxi??'

‘Yes, to down town, the Icaro suites on Montevideo'.

‘$25', he said

‘No too dear', I replied. ‘$15?'

‘$25!' he repeated.

Roisin then said. ‘We were told $15'

‘Who told? Who told?' asked ‘the man'

I interrupted ‘OK, $20 including tip?'

The man thought for a moment and said ‘OK $20. He walked to another man, said something then said to us ‘You follow him'.

Despite the short distance from the port to the hotel, the journey took almost 40 minutes. Driving is an ordeal in Buenos Aires. In some countries, they drive on the right and some countries drive on the left. In Malta and Cyprus they even drive in the shade. Here in Argentina, they just seem to drive where there is a space!! Cars cut you up without any notice. Cars in the wrong lane swerve across with the nerve of an out of control formula 1 car!!

We arrived at ‘a' hotel. The taxi driver helped us in with our luggage before we realised it was the wrong hotel. Ours was 10 yards across the road. The last laugh was on the taxi driver though as I gave him the $20 but it didn't include a tip!!!

Buenos Aires (Rough translation mean: fair winds – literal translation good air) is the 3^rd largest city in South America after Sao Paulo and Rio.

It was founded originally in 1536, but the Spaniards sent to colonize the mouth of the Rio de la Plata were forced away by the native indigenous population. A second, more successful attempt was made in 1580, and it wasn't until the early 1800's that the city and then the country emancipated itself from the Spanish crown, becoming the Republic of Argentina.

Neither of us knew what to expect in Buenos Aires. We had heard so many stories with most of them being negative. Argentina's capital city surpassed all expectations. Our first impression was that the city is a cross between New York, Paris and Hong Kong. New York because certain areas are built up and follow a road grid system. Some of these roads are narrow and the sky seems a far way off; Hong Kong because there are shops and stores crammed with stuff on every block lit up with neon and there is still a definite buzz well in to the evening and Paris because along side the grid system of narrow streets and tall buildings are wide open boulevards and parks. They say Buenos Aires is the Paris of South America. The terrace café culture seems to support this with cafes and restaurants littering every block. Where ever you walk in Buenos Aires you will always have sight of a café or restaurant.

The other thing you will never lose sight of in Buenos Aires is a statue or monument. The Argentines love their statues. There is practically one on every corner, sometimes even two!! Whilst some statues look very ornate, well designed and very distinguished (but as my Spanish (like most males) doesn't get more advanced than ‘uno cerverza, por favor'', I'm unable to understand who they are and what they did to justify being immortalised), others appear less dignified and could easily have been the result of a Blue Peter competition winner!!

On our first afternoon we decided to walk to the cemetery where Eva Peron lay interred. Begun in 1822, this amazing cemetery is a virtual crypt city of tall and elaborate tombs and mausoleums covering four square blocks. The cemetery is in the heart of a district called Recoleta, one of the poshest neighbourhoods in Buenos Aires

It took about ½ hour to walk to Recoleta cemetery. The narrow streets can be very crowded but we were surprised that neither of us felt threatened at any time despite the stories we had heard.

At the gate of the cemetery we were accosted by a man who spoke perfect English and explained where all the famous mausoleums where. He then asked for a donation to some charity. I begrudgingly but duly obliged (he was wearing a badge to say he was bona fide!!). He looked at the note I had just given him and shrugged his shoulderes. I saw red. I shouted, as I walked away: ‘Don't shrug your shoulders at me yer bastard!!!' (I can be vicious when riled!!!) It wasn't until sometime later it suddenly dawned on me why our charity worker had acted in such a manner. I had given him 5 pesos, about 75p!!! To be honest, I think I would have reacted the same if that were me!!!

Eva Peron, the wife of the late dictator Juan Peron was the heroine of the city's working class because she was one of their own before her rise to power. Ironically, she rests surrounded by the very families who once despised her lower-class origins.

She is not interred under her married name but she is buried with her family under the name of Duartes. Some of the other tombs were fantastic in design and well maintained whilst others where in a poor state of repair. While any family members are alive, plots (they are prime real estate) can be sold and renovated. However, if there is no living family left, the plot cannot be touched by the church or the government so are basically just left to deteriorate.

Some of the angels and figures that adorn crypts and mausoleums are striking the most unusual poses. There is one figure of (I assume) Jesus blocking a doorway with his body and outstretched hand. It's as if he is saying: ‘How many times do you have to be told, no trainers allowed!!!' (see photo below!!)

One other notable name Roisin spotted on our tour of the cemetery was a mausoleum for Patricio Browne, She must be from the Bernardo O'Higgins stable of ‘stick an ‘O' on the end of your first name to make it sound more Spanish'.

This evening we ate at a restaurant a few blocks from the hotel. I say restaurant. It was more of a bistro café but any café with a tablecloth is a restaurant in my books!!!

This was the first time in my 52 years that when I ordered a bottle of beer, it arrived in an ice bucket!! It doesn't matter how old you are, there are new experiences to be had every day!!

South Americans are fanatical about their soccer. Every restaurant and bar has a TV and all show soccer 24/7. Every establishment we passed had some match or other on the box. Other channels are not an option!! Even in our hotel soccer was being televised in the breakfast salon at 8:30 in the morning!! Everywhere you go you can't get away from it. It seems to be rammed down your throats on an hourly basis. Oh wait, am I still talking about Buenos Aires or have I just described any town or city in the UK at any time of day??!!

Did I say Buenos Aires is the 3^rd biggest city in South America? 3 million people live in the central suburbs alone and 14 million in the Greater environs of B.A. We only had one full day left so the best way to see as much as possible in the shortest time is by a ho-ho bus. The hop on-hop off service costs £15 for a 24-hour ticket. A continuous trip without the ‘hopping off' bit took about 3 ½ hours.

The weather was in the mid 70s so top deck it was then. I stood by our first impressions. Buenos Aries is a fascinating city with a photo opportunity and jaw dropping buildings around every corner. The tour gave us the chance to see a snapshot of what the city has to offer in way of architecture and lay out. We could then decide in the afternoon is there anywhere close up we'd like to see.

The tour stopped for 15 minutes for the bathroom and refreshments in La Boca. This, although very colourful and much sought after for wandering around in the daytime by tourists, becomes a ‘no-go' area after nightfall. We stopped only a few blocks away from the stadium of one of South America's most famous soccer teams, Boca Juniors. When Boca play their rivals from across the city, River Plate, these can be very violent affairs. The fans can turn nasty as well!!! The anti British slogans on the walls convinced me to give this neighbourhood a wide berth. One of the paintings depicted the Union flag with a skull and crossbones in the centre. I am thankful to say that this was the only anti British sentiment we noticed throughout our 2 days here.

One of the more unusual and original sculptures is Floralis Genérica, a flower shaped sculpture made from steel and aluminium and donated to the city by its creator Eduardo Catalano. He spouted some bollocks about this flower being a synthesis of all flowers and is both a hope that is reborn every day to open. The flower closes in the evening and opens at daybreak….end of!!!

I spotted some very unexpected ‘artifact' during our hop on (but not hopping off) experience. 2 British telephone boxes (see photo). I can't help wondering if these were the only spoils of war the Argintines took during the Falklands conflict!!

‘What do you mean, this is all they had on the island worth taking?'

Zorry, El Presidente but I thought they'd make a lovely addition to the street corner in Recoleta!!'

After we alighted the bus having finished our 3½-hour eye-opener, we had some lunch before walking the short distance to Plaza de Mayo.

It gets its name from the date of the 1810 revolution that led to independence for which the central pyramid is a constant fixture to celebrate this fact. The square has been the centre of much political life since then. At one end of the square sits the symmetrical La Casa Rosada (the Pink House) that is the executive mansion and office of the President of Argentina. The Palace gained notoriety from where Eva Peron addressed adorning crowds from the balcony.

The Metropolitan Cathedral is also situated on Plaza de Mayo with its 12 columns supporting the neo-classical facade, one for each apostle. The eternal flame of the cathedral flickers…well…for eternity!!!

Across the Plaza from the Cathedral is an inconspicuous monument to the fallen heroes of the Falklands War. The monument was erected in 2008. Despite occurring over 30 years ago, it happened so far away from home and these heroes batted for the other side (so to speak!) you can't help feeling a hint of remorse and sorrow!

You can't visit Buenos Aires and not take in the experience of a Tango Club. The Tango is said to originate from Argentina. The tango embrace can vary from holding each other at arms length to clutching each other in a face-to-face embrace. One myth is that it started by 2 men brawling in the street. The police arrived and as neither man wanted to be arrested, they gripped each other closely and started dancing while still trying to knock ‘seven shades' out of each other.

The other variation is to lean further away from each other while maintaining close contact with the midriff area. This signifies a male trying to get his tu'pence worth from a lady of the night who is trying to resist further advances. Either way, the dance always promises to produces drama and passion.

Despite mentioning our intention to Jolanta, our 89 year old egghead who said ‘Pah! Tango clubs are for tourists!' We met Alan and Ronda (who, like us happened to be tourists!!) and were also keen to witness this unique experience. The meal before hand was held in the bistro café of Tortoni's, one of the most famous Tango clubs in the capital.

The club was small and intimate and by the start of the show only 3 tables were occupied (about a quarter of the club!!). There was a group from the USA, one from Mexico and us.

The 1½-hour show was a mix of dancing, singing and audience participation. Luckily I'd managed to barricade myself in with a chair from the adjacent table. Alan and Ronda however cherished the challenge. When Alan returned to the table I said to him, ‘Does this mean you've just been tangoed!!!'

The show was held together with a small 4-piece band consisting of a violin, concertina, double bass and piano. At the end of the show, the dancers, MC and musicians all came down from the stage and shook hands with every single one of the audience. It's a good job the show wasn't supported by a symphony orchestra!! We would have been in danger of missing our flight tomorrow!!

This was a fitting end to an eventful trip. We were both wishing we had more time to explore this vibrant city. It has so much to offer but unfortunate and unlikely we will return any time soon.

The highlight of the holiday has to be the penguins, touching down in the Falklands and the stunning scenery of Ushuaia. There were a few disappointments along the way but these are far outweighed by all the new experiences.

This has definitely been an expedition.

Thank you to all who have viewed this blog. During this trip the number of hits that have checked out one of my blogs has exceeded 10,000. This trip took us over 29,000km

I now cast my mind back to our few last moments several days ago on the Star Princess as we looked out from our Balcony for the very last time. Ironically all we could see were row upon row of containers with the letters MSC emblazoned on each and every one…our thoughts were already turning to the Black Sea in 9 weeks time on the MSC Lirica and Trivia in 5 languages!!!

Footnote: Roisin and I often get asked, 'Is there anywhere in the world you haven't been?' To quote the famous America writer and film maker, Susan Sontag, I always reply: 'We haven't been to everywhere, but it's on our list!!!'

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Comments

[BjornBorgUK]

hi guys - love that the best part of your whole trip was B.A. - I really want to go there now. Excellent photos as usual. Can't believe you're going back on the Lirica - you can't get enough of her, right?Hope you can cope with the shock o
f a brief stint of work before returning to your real occupations of crusing the world - how many stamps short of the full passport now, eh?

[chris-roisin]

I was amazed they stamped our passport in the Falklands. A bit of a collectors item!!