Blogs from Fiordland National Park, South Island, New Zealand, Oceania - page 10

Jan. 13, 2011 - The Way In We stayed in a hostel in a small town called Tuatapere. At 8:30am we were picked up by hired transport, and taken to the start of the Dusky Track. This is considered to be one of New Zealand's more challenging tramps, but I was confident I'd be able to do it at this point. We had packed nine days worth of food (read: heavy packs). To reach the start of the track, you take a boat to the other side of a giant lake called Lake Hauroko. The ride takes about an hour. The water was smooth as glass, and the sights along the way are fantastic. Once on the other side we are immediately assaulted by sandflies (this assault would be constant). We use a hut near the ... read more

I hadn't been sure, when I went to bed on the night of the 26th, whether I'd do better to spend Dec. 27th by the gas fire in the lounge or whether I should make one more try at seeing the takahe. It was clearly going to be my only chance to see a takahe, and I really wanted to, but it was such a long walk. But when I woke I found that Plum had come disconnected in the night, and she barely had power enough to see me through breakfast. So that settled the question nicely. I would go out for a walk, at least while she recharged. I had lost my camera case on Christmas day. This was not, fortunately, a serious loss; it wasn't a fitted case, only a grey quilted ... read more

Christchurch to Milford Sound : Bruce and I have been trying to keep up with our travel blog but sometimes it is difficult finding the internet . I hope you haven’d missed us too much. What did we do before the internet? How the heck did we survive? Sometimes we stop at libraries but they charge a fee there as well to use the computer. Anyway, the saga continues.... We stayed three nights in the city of Christchurch. Christchurch is the most “english” of New Zealand cities. There is the avon river, cathedrals, a tram, a city square with english style pubs and houses with manicured gardens. We went to the art museum and visited the “Ron Mueck” exhibit. What an exhibit it was. There were about 11 sculptures made of fiberglass, rubber, all different materials ... read more

I have a lovely little single here in Te Anau. It's on the second, and highest, floor -- second in the American sense, fortunately, unlike my Queenstown room. Whenever it rains, I can hear rain on the roof. It's a narrow room, but they've taken pains with it. Two walls are paneled; two are painted drywall. There are beams on the sloping ceiling, and, rather oddly, the heater is on the ceiling too. It's a great heater -- first time I've been warm enough at night without a space heater. There's a rainforest poster on one wall, a mirror on another, and a window on the third. From the window, I have a view of the lake. It is customary here in New Zealand to identify public restrooms by a picture of a man in ... read more

Ask me yesterday evening and I'd have said yes, rest day (or three) would be good. Ask me this morning and all my mind can see is mountains, lakes, tracks. My legs feel fine and I'm sure they'd willingly follow my mind's whims. Well, at least for a little while. Ok, rest it is then. And it is raining and windy today too. I drive down to Manapouri and spend some time by the lake. Then I decide I'd like to see the ocean so I drive down to Tuatapere and visit Blue Cliffs beach. Stunningly beautiful with confused but colourful weather on the horizon. Far too many sandflies though so I don't linger long. And so back to Friday night in Te Anau before heading north a bit tomorrow to Queenstown and preparation for the ... read more