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We headed out of the Finders Ranges NP, along a fantastic track which was along a mostly dry creek bed and onto the sealed road up past Leigh Creek, Lyndhurst and Maree. We stopped in at Leigh Creek, but it was completely deserted. This was a mining town which was re-located about 30 years ago so it is pristine but we couldn’t see any people. It was a Sunday so I guess everyone was at Mass. At Lyndhurst we stopped for coffee and a macadamia and white chocolate cookie.The guy behind the counter was obviously in need of company and he sat down with us. The mobile coverage was so marginal I couldn’t write the blog anyway. We had a good chat about the various ins and outs of Lyndhurst and after about 30 seconds we were talking about cars. Obviously you ask what sort of car you have adn then get into a detailed discussion about alloy versus steel bullbars, winches and recovery gear. However he had a Kia Sorrento. My view is that Kia is the Hisense of car manufacturers. Great at sponsorship but can they really make things. Before I knew it I was out the back in
the shed checking out the Kia. Surprisingly it had “diff lock” but unsurprisingly it has a 7 year warranty. I have to say it’s pretty impressive to see one in that environment. He was a lovely bloke who filled up our water and we were on our way. We topped up fuel at Maree and the second stage of the adventure, the Oodnadatta Track, began. Both the Birdsville Track and the Oodnadatta Track meet at Maree. Again all roads open and I drove quickly past the list of stuff you need sign. The Oodnadatta Track was like a freeway compared to some of the tracks in The Flinders. The OT (I can’t keep spelling it out) roughly follows the old Ghan and most of the towns (overstatement!) were built to service it in some way. We passed the Dog Fence which effectively separates sheep from cattle farming as they set baits for dingoes inside the fence. We also stopped at the Alberrie Creek Sculpture Park which is an eclectic collection of metal bits and pieces eg what looks like two WWII fighter planes erected on their noses. A bit pointless but a great diversion. We stopped at the Curdimurka Railway
Siding. These sidings were built every 10 miles or so to service the railway line, which incidentally had 3 different gauges. The Ghan, and the OT, are built along a network of “mound springs” which are built up by years and years of sediment from water percolating up from the artesian basin. We stopped at the Blanche Cup and the Bubbler. The bubbler (although apparently less energetic than previously) gurgles away. These springs are like little oasis in the otherwise featureless landscape. We arrived at Coward Springs for the night. Tim, the guy in charge, said the showers were run by donkey and were probably still hot. I wasn’t sure whether donkey was a person or whether it would be like that scene in Pirates of the Carribean and we’d have to get the donkey to move around to get our shower going. It was in fact a big metal cylinder that you have to build a fire under. Despite my extensive experience in cadets at school (well up until that time Pat Morrisey and I got demoted for hitching to Appin Pub on annual camp) my fire lighting skills are a bit ordinary. Luckily Tim came along to get donkey going. This is a great campsite with planting around each site and it’s own natural spa. The temperature was about 26 degrees and it was a great experience in the middle of nowhere. Hamburgers.
Things we learnt:
- The OT really ain’t that bad (Caution: My mate Tim said it’s the best it’s been in 10 years)
- Stuff about the Ghan
- Google may be right about letting your tyres down
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