We left you after two days of solid driving, but only a tiny proportion into our epic drive from Adelaide to Cairns. We were in the desert town of Coober Pedy. We had a quiet day or so there getting our affairs in order, as they say, before moving on to Ularu (Ayer's Rock). The problem, you think as you drive the 300km off the main road to Ularu (the proper name for Ayer's rock), is that you've already seen it a thousand times in pictures and on TV, it's expensive and a long long way from anything at all. By the time we arrived, and although we didn't admit it to one another until after, we were both expecting to be disappointed; after all it's just a great big stone in the desert in the
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