… might be the number of McDonald’s we have seen since leaving Heathrow six weeks ago … or, the number of times William has asked ‘Are we there yet?’ or, perhaps, … it could be England’s total in the final innings of the Ashes. Actually, 1770 is a place! It is named for the date that Lt James Cook and the Endeavour (… all sounds a bit Captain’s Log doesn’t it?) landed on this headland sticking out from the coast of Queensland, backed by creeks and mangrove swamps, in search of fresh water. With its sister settlement, Agnes Water, this is the upper limit of surfable beaches and the lower edge of the barrier reef on the east coast of Australia – hence its marketing byline, ‘Where the surf meets the reef’. We camped on the
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