Graceland Today is my first day in Memphis, Tennessee. The Rock and Roll Hall Of Fame may be in Cleveland, but the music was born here. Before exploring that history, I had to make a call at one of the essential road trip sites. Graceland is the former home of Elvis Presley, the first major rock star. Decades after his death, it still attracts fans by the thousands. The welcome signs in the ticket building are in a dozen languages. The place has become unbearably commercialized, but it’s still essential. If nothing else, the place is one of the few rock star homes (dead or otherwise) open to the public, and Elvis set the pattern for all those that followed. The house itself is almost
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