The big muddy (Memphis) and B’rum (not hot) catchup

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This is a morning blog (10a.m. Sat.), which stops me from doing the tourist thing in Memphis, so will be brief catchup – rest will be done on the bus to Nashville tomorrow Sunday in final breakneck stretch to leaving.

So on Thurs. 10th we got 5 hr Hound trip from Atlanta to Birmingham. It was a time change going out of Georgia into Alabama which the driver did not mention, but I knew about – chg to Central Standard time – and I have day light saving on Sat nite/Sun morning to do as well.
Anyway the bus stopped for 10 mins in Tupelo Miss. (birthplace of Elvis) and part of name of old Va Morrison album Tupelo Honey – but saw none of the above. Into Birmingham and my hotel was a cold windy 2x2 block walkaway. It was the Redmont which is a very nice old hotel – nice large room for $100, mainly cos it was close to the Hound. But believe me, B’rum has no attractions to speak of in the day time or least the night time. Yes there is a civil rights museum – the protest movements against discrimination started there – but the city is a dead heart – no restaurants, no nothing – just office buildings and car parks. I headed over to the S side of the railway tracks towards the university where there was supposedly more happening – but found only fast food joints etc. Gourmet night this was not going to be. Asked in an empty pub and the woman directed me to a Thai place down the road. Just as well, as their food was quite good. Thai basil rolls (rice paper) followed by my comfort food, fat rice noodles. Then a cold windy walk back – I swear it must have been 5-6C.

A quick cereal/muffin breakfast in the a.m. at the hotel and a bit of a sprint to the Hound lvg at 7.20am to Memphis. My motel thing in Memphis is very handy to things such as the Hound, just along the street, but due to Kid Rock concert at massive arena a short walk away I will have to move to a cheap Motel 6 rather further away – but which is at least on the streetcar/trolley line.

Decided to get priority no.1 (visit the King at Graceland) out of the way Friday. Had planned to get the bus which I had checked timetable for every 15 mins – but either in wrong place etc. Eventually got a cab from outside the Hound, which cost me $21. It was a waste of money to pay extra $5 for pre-booking a tour – I could have just walked up, there no Qs. They take you in a shuttle bus just across the road (Elvis Presley boulevard) to the mansion and then you essentially have a self-guided tour at your own pace with headphone set. I won’t say much about this as it is what it is. How can I describe it anyway. Maybe a few sample snaps attached – I took about 150, so my brother John can relive it (he has been there twice). I actually managed to get the bus back – although I was convinced the fare was $1 not $1.50 (the trolley is $1 which confused me). A guy at the front kindly threw in the 50cents as I only had 33c in change. It was certainly an all black bus (and we do not mean Kiwi rugby supporters) which is likely usual. Went to the terminus at N side of downtown to get an idea of the layout. No real info available there as post 5pm so walked back along Front Street. My camera battery was clearly clagging so back to the motel to get the other. Then about 9pm went out to eat. Decided I would simply go to Automatic Slim’s as it was close and supposedly groovy. It certainly was with Stax soul sounds coming form the speakers and a quite interesting menu. Had (menu quote) roasted red and gold beets, fried goats cheese, Casey’s golden lavender, honey, balsamic peppercorn syrup & arugula (rocket). Phew – did wonder about some of these ingredients though. Basically it was four slices of beetroot under a massive thatch of rocket – not much dressing so called for oil and vinegar. The goats cheese was in fried croquettes and tasted ungoaty and more creamy. The main was a fillet of beef with rib root vege hash & roasted mushrooms. I should have noticed the hash as this was definitely not a vegetarian dish – shredded meat in the hash as well – so meat upon meat! It was pretty damn good though and well left Ted’s bison roast in the shade – but at $28, $10 more expensive. A glass of Russian River pinot noir with it. And how could I resist yet another crème brulee with berries in it? As I might have said crème brulee simply cannot be ruined (so far).

A quick walk along the famous Beale Street (a squad car parked at either end) which is only about 200m. long but packed with bars and clubs etc – all pretty touristy and I can imagine to be particularly avoided after the Kid Rock concert on Sat. as it is just a walk along the road. That will do for now – sights await.

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Photos

car museum
black&white faceoff

the pink Caddy
his favourite?

another purpose Caddy
as seating in the diner

Cannon centre
a recital hall with "feature"

Cannon centre
another view of "feature"

Automatic Slim's
the groovy interior

a late night joint
with Elvis endorsement?

Comments

[Huddo]

Hail The King.
Hi Mike, Aha the King's final resting place. For the "true" fans mostly, however it is what it is as you say, Elvis was indeed an icon. Loved the Beale street shot, played some 9 ball pool with some locals on my trip there, good music. Trivia? The pink caddy? Elvis bought jest for his " Mama " Love Huddo and girls.