The St. Lawrence river, with the third largest drainage area in North America covering 1,610,000m2from its farthest draining site in the Great Lakes, runs from the outflow of Lake Ontario through two provinces - Ontario and Québec - out into the Gulf of St. Lawrence at its enormous estuary. From Lake Ontario to its mouth, it also happens to flow through several of Canada's major cities - including Toronto, Montréal, Québec and, by way of a major tributary, the nation's capital Ottawa - which makes it a convenient base for the itinerary of a first trip to Canada. Without having planned it deliberately, this 2 1/2 week trip almost entirely took place along the St. Lawrence River and its sources, providing a thematic continuity to it all. Flying out from Paris, my trip began with five
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