Blogs from Newfoundland & Labrador, Canada, North America - page 8

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It is tempting to think that a bunch of half starved, frozen, lost and crazy Viking sailors landed by chance on the Northernmost tip of Newfoundland some 1,000 years ago, after a harrowing haphazard voyage through Ice Berg alley. But no! You would be wrong! After half an hour at the historical exhibit and archeological dig at L'Anse aux Meadows (a corruption of "the Cove of Medea" in French) it becomes clear that this settlement was intentional. The cove where those Vikings pulled in is calm and sheltered from the sea, in spite of the fierce wind that was blowing when we were there. The location has the kind of ancient peat that yields iron when heated and treated in the iron smelter and forge which they built. They have found iron nails made from iron ... read more
Statue of vikings landing
Anne Stine and Helge Ingstad, who discovered the settlement
Their story


I am getting used to the freezing cold and drizzle in the morning, and dress for it. Today was no different, as I set out for to L'Anse au Clair to complete the Highway. The halfway milestone today was a place called Red Bay, where the pavement starts again. More importantly, it was a Portuguese whaling station in the late 16th century, and probably the first European settlement in Labrador. Even more importantly, it has a great seafood restaurant. The road was gravel. The rain was driving. The helmet wasn't working properly. Hard to drive a difficult road when everything is distorted by fog and drops inches from your nose. I had pulled over at a widening of the road bed to fix my helmet when an RCMP vehicle stops in front of me. I think ... read more
Labrador signs and people are always so upbeat
The only thing worse than wet gravel is a wet metal grating bridge
View down the cove from the road


This entry is dedicated to Mike Parker who turns 57 today (June 5). Happy Birthday Mike ! You were right. There is nothing there. But for a few bear, a caribou and porcupine, today's trip across most of Labrador to the Atlantic Coast at Happy Valley/Goose Bay was uneventful. The road is smooth and empty. It rises and falls from a low of 200 to a high of 450 m above sea level. The stunted Northern forest seems to have little topsoil and humus to support it. With a long, smooth, empty road ahead and no-one in my field of vision, I did what any red blooded biker would do and let it rip… Of course, it wasn’t long before I went over a hill and faced a large incoming Royal Canadian Mounted Police car. The ... read more
Cutting along the Trans Labrador Hwy
A beautiful empty highway
The scrubby bush goes on for miles and miles


This, the longest section of the Labrador Highway with gravel, is also the one with no services. Nothing. Not even a sandwich. It starts off easy, with 100km of pavement, then shifts to gravel of varying densities, always smooth. When I travelled it was wet, so there was little dust. And the temperature never climbed above 40 degrees F, which kept the black flies down. It definitely is the right time of year to do this road. The only problem was built into the bike, which kept flashing a warning snow flake emoji in the dashboard indicating that the temperature was at freezing, and disaster could not be far behind. Good for BMW. Always taking care of its drivers. Last year when I drove the Alaska Pipeline Haul Road up to Prudhoe Bay, they kindly positioned ... read more
Turn to gravel and rain until Port Hope Simpson
Keep your eyes on the road
The path less travelled by, not taken.


This entry is dedicated to Dorothy Rhyne Blyth, Beth's much loved aunt, who passed away in Chapel Hill NC on June 3, 2017, aged 93. In empty uncultivable places such as Western Labrador with hunting and trapping no longer a viable alternative, small communities often become enclaves that exist in the shadow of the big natural resource companies: Big Oil in Alaska and North Western Canada, Big Hydro and Big Mining in Northern Quebec. I had wondered who was King in Labrador, until I visited the town of Churchill Falls, in the middle of Labrador on the Churchill River. NALCOR, a government owned hydro power corporation rules. Its initial base was in Churchill Falls, where in 1971, in partnership with Hydro Quebec, a large power project was completed producing some 5,000 Megawatts. Now it is engaged ... read more
Lake along Trans Lab Highway, with ice
Approaching Churchill Falls town
Now dry tributary of Churchill Falls


It was overcast, cold but not actually raining this morning. Up and out by 7:00am, inhaled some breakfast and got on the road. Alone. No-one going my way today it seems. Need plenty of time to negotiate this stuff. I was counting on my training on the Alaska Pipeline Haul Road last year -- and it did come in handy. This wasn't so cold, or so sticky. The mud was more negotiable, and the hills not so steep or long. I drove standing in the pegs for the full 100 km of gravel/mud -- the bike is much more stable and controllable this way. I do love German Engineering. The machine never hesitated. Only the driver. Not a house, not a clearing in the forest, until the end of the sticky part. The start of the ... read more
Across the top of Manic 5 dam
Route 389 North
Lots of traffic, luckily going the other way...

North America » Canada » Newfoundland & Labrador August 28th 2016

The clouds and rain persisted up until we reached the majestic Gros Morne National Park, back on the western coast. This world heritage site was carved by glaciers and comprised mountains and picturesque lakes and fjords. Small little villages could be found along the main roads of this vast park. We stayed in one of the Federal campsites, and it was awesome. The weather seemed to be clearing up for the weekend too. We headed out towards Gros Morne Mountain the next day, with a mission of getting to the top. It was a perfect day when we set out. We gained elevation quickly and soon enough we could see the mountain, about 800 meters tall. The path to the top involved navigating up a steep and rocky gully, and the boulders making up the path ... read more
LÀnse Aux Meadows
Red Bay Fog
Happy Valley


Hi, Again -- The first photo scene, the three colorful sheds, is used in all of the Province's PR materials. We were lucky to see it. The next photos were taken in Bowring Park in St. John's. You might want to read the story on the plaque, "Into No Man's Land." Even through this tragedy happened July 1, 1916, Newfoundlanders still commemorate that date and wear a blue flower for remembrance. The last photo, a truck on its side, was taken on our way to the five-hour ferry to Nova Scotia. We had just passed the "Wreakhouse" in a very strong wind when we saw the overturned truck. There's a story about the Wreakhouse, related here by Wikipedia: Lockie MacDougall, a farmer and trapper, was born in 1896 and lived at Wreckhouse. He had a natural ... read more
horse trough
tulips in park
Mr & Misses Duck


Hi, Friends -- I took these photos in St. Johns, the capitol of Newfoundland, which is on the far eastern side of Newfoundland. The first photos are of Cabot Tower on the top of Signal Hill. Some history from my friend, Wikipedia: "In 1901, Guglielmo Marconi received the first trans-Atlantic wireless message at a position near the tower, the letter "S" in Morse Code sent from Poldhu, Cornwall, United Kingdom. . . .In 1933, a Marconi station was opened on the second floor of Cabot Tower, which operated until 1960. In 1920, one of the first wireless transatlantic transmissions of the human voice was made there. Men at the ... read more
drawing of Cabot Tower
Cabot Tower on Signal Hill
Cabot Tower plaque -- at 400 year anniversary


This is a five day adventure story. July 18 After four good sleeps at the Viking RV park in Quirpon, a Sunday visit to the local United Church where sitting and singing with Guy the old geezer from the RVcamp made for an enjoyable hour, the bedding and clothes laundered in one shot because of two machines, the oil changed early Monday morning at a very local garage and a three hundred and seventy four kilometer drive, the Adventure is ahead of itself by two days. The drive south along the western side of the Northern Peninsula is constantly changing from pebble strewn, windswept shores to coniferous trees stunted and bent by the wind to small villages made up of square white clapboard houses but no shops and again and again mountains of wooden lobster traps ... read more
The Boardwalk to Westbrook Pond
Westbrook Pond Fjord
The Little Ship that Could




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