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Middle East » Turkey » Marmara » Istanbul August 12th 2008

We left Sugar Beach Club and the tour at 2:30 in the morning (!) for a one hour ride to the airport and a one hour flight to Istanbul. We got in around 6, left our luggage at the guesthouse, and then had about 6 hours to walk around until the rooms were ready. We walked through the cisterns -- a huge underground complex with pillars and walkways, and a few fish. Its quite interesting to walk though, although Silmarien is still confused about where the "underground sister" went. After wandering around somewhat aimlessly for a bit longer, we decided to find someplace to eat, which we did, a block from our guesthouse. I had pistachio kebab, which is now my favorite Turkish food. They serve a huge piece of flatbread, baked in an oven until ... read more
The Grand Bazaar
Best OJ in Turkey
Near the bazaar

Middle East » Lebanon » Beirut August 12th 2008

After relaxing at the beach in Jbail, we returned the next day to check out the ruins of Jbail. The city was inhabited by the Phoenicians circa 5000 bc. It was named Byblos by the Greeks. It is located right on the Mediterranean coast with spectacular views. After Hani's sister yelled at the the worker for trying to charge me more for being a foreigner, we made it into Byblos. We spent the afternoon wandering in and out of the ruins. After exploring the ruins, we headed to the "souk" or market. The marketplace is probably a tourist trap, but I loved it. I just couldn't get enough of the beautiful hand-stitched tablecloths. Famished from shopping, we stopped at a lovely seafood restaurant with one of the most amazing views of the entire trip. At the ... read more
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Middle East » Lebanon » Beirut August 11th 2008

For our fourth day in Lebanon we decided to relax at the beach in Jbail. Amazingly, the beach is only 30 minutes from the mountains. We found a great spot to relax on the sandy beach and take a swim in the warm water of the Mediterranean. Because the climate of Lebanon is hot and humid during the summer, the beach was a welcome respite. The weather was definitely dependable in Lebanon; you can count on the hot, muggy days. It doesn't rain in the summer, so we never had to worry about bad weather ruining our plans. After drinking in our share of sun, we were invited to dinner by Hani's neighbors in Roumieh, Carla and her family. The dinner had wonderful food- delicious kabobs, fresh tabouleh, fries, nuts, watermelon, and much more. They also ... read more
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Middle East » Lebanon » Beirut August 11th 2008

For our third day in Lebanon, we visited the Basilica of St. Paul and Harissa. The Basilica is Greek Catholic church, and it's amazing beautiful. The mosaic artwork is stunning. Harissa is a large statue of the virgin Mary above the town of Jounieh. She's referred to as Our Lady of Lebanon or Notre Dame du Liban. Many people will walk the long windy road to reach the statue each year as a religious pilgrimage. While we drove up the hill to the statue, we did climb the stairs to the top of Harissa. The view from the top was amazing. ... read more
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Middle East » Lebanon » Beirut August 11th 2008

After a good night's sleep, we drove up to Roumieh, the mountain town where Hani and Hani's brother have a home. On the highway, I had my first realy glimpse of Lebanese driving. Driving in a lane is optional, lines don't exist, reverse is always an option, and exit ramps may or may not exist. We then turned onto a tiny, curvy road that reminded me of the back roads in many places in West Virginia. Soon we entered the village of Roumieh. The temperature was noticably cooler even though we were only 15 minutes from downtown. Instantly I fell in love with the big Lebanese homes. The homes are passed down through the family, and have distinctive details you can't find in any McMansion. The rooms are spacious with high ceilings, so they have a ... read more
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Middle East » Lebanon » Beirut August 11th 2008

From the day I met Hani, he told me about his beautiful Lebanon. Finally, five years after meeting, we traveled together to Lebanon where I met his immediate family for the first time. Our first attempt to travel to Lebanon on May 10th was squelched when fighting erupted just days prior to our departure. The airport was closed, so our trip was cancelled. We prayed the situation would calm down and soon it did. We then crossed our fingers and booked another trip for June. We drove to Washington, DC on Saturday, June 28th, flew for 13 hour to Qatar, spent 13 hours in Qatar's airport, then flew 3 hours to Lebanon. We arrived on Monday June 30. Lebanon is 7 hours ahead, so we arrived around 11 am. After a tearful greeting at the airport ... read more
Qatar
Downtown Beirut
dinner in Beirut at la Ballad

Middle East » Syria » East » Palmyra August 10th 2008

Summer School 2 was over so we had the opportunity to get away for a few nights before Summer School 3 began. That meant a late evening bus from Damascus to the desert city of Palmyra. We arrived at 1130pm and were soon drinking refreshing tea in our hotel before settling down for a good night’s sleep. The following morning we set out to climb up to the citadel in the morning sun, before the heat of the day became too much to bear. It was a tough climb on rough tracks but the views over the extensive Roman ruins were worth it. Unfortunately our guidebook proved to be wrong (again!) and the castle was closed, not opening until midday!! We were not the only frustrated tourists up there though and we were given a lift ... read more
Palmyra Citadel
Palmyra Ruins
Detailed carvings

Middle East » Iraq » West » Al Asad Airbase August 10th 2008

Today I was invited to a barbeque at the rug shop. Persian and Turkish rugs are one of the hot items that the Iraqis peddle. I have learned that most of the so called “Iraqis” are Turks that pretend to be Iraqi to sell their wares at Iraqi gift shops. There are various grades of rug but the best are handmade. The Iraqi Doctor that I have talked about previously is friends with the high class rug seller here in Al Asad. The Doctor invited some of the other Doctors and Nurses to the rug shop for a barbeque. I know that this was all a ploy to get us to the rug shop to see the handmade rugs. But I have come to love Kabobs so this seemed all worth it. We arrived and were ... read more




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