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Middle East » Israel » Haifa District » Haifa June 1st 2003

Today was our only day in Haifa. We began with an overview of the city from one of the promenades on the hill, and then walked over for an overlook of the Bahai Gardens. We then met with Ophir Yarden, an educator who does a lot of work with Israeli Arabs. After a discussion of the situation of Arabs in Israel, we went to visit the Sisters of Nazareth School, an Arab Christian school in Haifa. Haifa has a more mixed population than any other city in Israel, and generally has had good relations between Jews and Arabs. The school we visited was very different than what one would expect from seeing the news in the US. The neighborhood is upper middle class, and the school is beatiful and well equipped in terms of lab and ... read more

Middle East » Israel » Jerusalem District » Jerusalem June 1st 2003

Despite the piguim (attacks) last night and this morning (one at a border checkpoint and one near French Hill), things seemed pretty normal today. There was some impact on our program, as the Arab journalist we were to meet with in the morning was delayed in arriving because he had to go through the checkpoint that had been attacked. We were able to reschedule him for the afternoon. Our first speaker was Dr. Guy Bachor of the Interdisciplinary College in Hertziliya. He gave us an overview of American/Western involvement in the Middle East situation, with an understanding of how Arab and Middle Eastern culture has responded to this involvement. After lunch at the JCC office, we had to relocate to the HUC campus down the street because we couldn't get the video to work (a not ... read more

Middle East » Israel » Tel Aviv District » Tel Aviv June 1st 2003

We started this morning with meditation and breakfast on the beach in Tel Aviv. We then had a short walk through the city, with an eye towards understanding the history of the city from its secular origins and as the place where the State of Israel was declared. We ended at Independence Hall, where we saw a presentation about the declaration of the state and had a chance to discuss our own views of the important elements of Israeli society today. After lunch at a restaurant in the Yemenite quarter of the city, we split up for our project group meetings. The youth group went to the office of the municipal youth council. We met with the president of the council for grades 7-9. She explained their activities, which focus on advocacy and student issues. For ... read more

Middle East » Israel » Tel Aviv District » Tel Aviv June 1st 2003

Our plan had been to visit Beit Hatfutsot (the Diaspora Museum) this morning, but we had to reorganize when we arrived only to discover that it is now closed on Thursdays as a cost saving measure. Instead we had a discussion about collective identity and how this relates to our next unit, the competing voices in contemporary Israel. We then had lunch in the university cafeteria. In the afternoon, we met with Dr. Nimrod Aloni, an education professor and son of former MK and education minister Shulamit Aloni. Dr. Aloni is a committed secular humanist, and offered his perspective on contemporary Israel. We then went to Kikar Rabin for a discussion of the effects of Rabin's assassination on Israel. David, Shira, and Shirel each offered their memories and perspectives on the events, which was fascinating to ... read more

Middle East » Israel » Tel Aviv District » Tel Aviv June 1st 2003

On our last day in Tel Aviv, we examined the issues of immigration and foreign workers in Israel. When I was here in '95, there were almost no Asians here. Now, there are a lot, partly as a response to the loss of the Palestinian labor pool. One of the key issues that Israel is dealing with is what it means for these workers to be in Israel without being citizens. Jews are guaranteed citizenship if they move here, and Arab families who chose to remain in 1948 are citizens, but non-Jews who come to Israel need an exception from the Interior Ministry to become citizens. We first viewed a video from the Tekumah TV documentary (broadcast for the 50th anniversary of the state), dealing with the issue of mass immigration and how Israel has dealt ... read more

Middle East » Israel » Jerusalem District » Jerusalem June 1st 2003

After an unsuccessful attempt to go to services this morning (although I did have a rather pleasant walk), I returned to Ramat Rachel for a nap and then lunch with the group. We had a text study after lunch, where we looked at the different views in Torah with regard to how Jews are obligated to treat strangers among us. We had the rest of the afternoon free until we got together for havdalah before heading out for the evening.... read more

Middle East » Israel » Jerusalem District » Jerusalem June 1st 2003

Today was a very emotional day. We started off with a discussion of the matsav with Dr. Debbie Weissman and Israel Meidad, both modern orthodox but on the left and right, respectively, politically. The group then split up, with most going to see Dr. Michel Strachansky, the director of research at the Bank of Israel (the equivalent of the Federal Reserve). A few of us (Addie, Elana, and myself) went to Hadassah Hospital on Mt. Scopus to hear about how the matsav has affected their work. After a brief overview and tour, we met with several victims of piguim who are recovering from their injuries (Mt. Scopus specializes in rehabilitation, in contrast to the Ein Kerem hospital that specializes in trauma care). Needless to say, our meetings with the victims were the most emotional part of ... read more

Middle East » Israel » Jerusalem District » Jerusalem June 1st 2003

This morning we visited Har HaZikaron, the hills including Yad Vashem, the cemetery at Mt. Herzl where Israel's national leaders are buried, and the military cemetery. While we only visited the latter two sites, we did discuss the overall layout of the hill, in terms of how the places came to be sited and so forth. All of this was in the context of understanding Israeli collective memory. In the afternoon, we went to the archaeological dig at Beit Guvrin. We had a tour of the site and had a chance to participate a little bit in the current dig. At this site the people who built houses dug out the soft rock to use for the homes, leaving cellar caves which are now being excavated. We did find some interesting pieces of pottery, and had ... read more

Middle East » Israel » Tel Aviv District » Tel Aviv June 1st 2003

Most of the group went to see family or friends for Shabbat, so I didn't see anyone else from the group until after Shabbat. I slept in on Friday before going out to run a few errands. I davenned at the minyan at the hotel that evening (a Sephardic minyan) before dinner in the dining room. I also davenned there Shabbat morning, and spent most of the rest of Shabbat napping and reading. It was very restful. After Shabbat, Sean and I went to the Azrielli mall for a bite of dinner and then to see Matrix Reloaded. The effects are great, although it was a little weak in terms of plot.... read more

Middle East » Israel » North District » Nazareth June 1st 2003

We left Ein Gev this morning to head back to Jerusalem. We first stopped at the Kinneret cemetery on the south shore of the lake. Most of the people buried here were kibbutzniks from the second aliyah, who helped to build up the Galilee region. Notables buried there include the poet Rachel and the socialist Moshe Hess. We then went to the Israeli city of Nazareth-Illit, which is immediately adjacent to the Arab city of Nazareth. We met with the city's director of absorption and the deputy mayor (a Russian oleh who has been in Israel for 8 years) to discuss how the city handles the large numbers of olim who have settled here. Many of them are from the former Soviet Union, so the discussion included aspects of how this population is integrating into Israeli ... read more




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