Up down up down and a Bond villain...me...?

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27th Aug 2014

As we were driven out of Istanbul we discussed whether we'd come back and the answer was yes....but not in a hurry. This wasn't just because of the profligacy of socks and sandals wearers but more to do with how busy it is. In the 1980s the population of Istanbul was 3 million, it has now grown to a staggering 15 million and every one of them has stood in my way over the last few days....plus some tourists as well.



There is plenty more to see if we did come back although we have crammed quite a lot into our few days here. Today we have somehow walked up and down more hills than we did in San Francisco! At some points we actually knew where we were going....but not many.



We started at a hotel that Agatha Christie supposedly once stayed at. Some claims at this may be in doubt but this one is probably true. If you're an author don't set your stories in your boring old hometown, set them somewhere exotic or set them on an exciting train journey. The book I'm currently writing is set in my hometown....but the next will probably be set in Ulan Bator or maybe Hanoi....don't tell any potential publishers though eh!



The hotel looks pleasant enough and I probably would have booked in there if I was Agatha. Now it was just to take a photo but, when I write Murder on the Orient Express 2, I may stay there.



We then had some simit bread and I had some freshly squeezed orange juice while steeling ourselves for the climb up Galeta Tower. We'd put this off twice as we had been too knackered so imagine how we felt when we realised there was a lift. It was expensive to get up there and eating in the restaurant would have resulted in me having to do many years of hard labour. The view was good but we were soon in a nearby cafe where Claire indulged in some tiramisu.



Marching downhill again (have you thought about putting a slide in folks?) we then went past some people with film or TV cameras. My natural instinct is to jump in front of the camera but when I saw it looked like a mere travel programme I lost interest.



For a while....



Later, when the guy was walking by us and the cameras were rolling....we both jumped in and looked very interestedly at some spices. Anyone who spots us on TV somewhere, do let me know! Actually there were a hell of a lot of trucks so maybe it was more than just a travel programme.....probably the next Bond film or something and the guy we jumped behind is Bond's new nemesis....



Or I am now......



We found the Egyptian bazaar today and that is a lot more colourful and fragrant than the grand Bazaar. It is vibrant and full of wonderful colours and odours. I don't know if it is any cheaper than the Grand Bazaar but it had a better buzz about it. It was too busy of course but I didn't have to shove anyone into pyramids of spices, so that was nice.



I did have a strange experience while buying a one lira fridge magnet though. I made the lira up with small coins, a 50 and five 10s but the guy wouldn't accept the 10s. Now I should have told him where to shove his poxy fridge magnet while muttering very British like that we can even pay for things with postage stamps back home. But, sadly, I didn't and I found him a one lira coin....but I did shake my head at him which made me feel better. At least I'll have a story to tell about the poxy fridge magnet though I suppose.



Back into the sweltering heat we caught the tram to the Istanbul Modern which hides behind buildings and a car park and is right next to where the cruise monkeys creep ashore to get ripped off for Turkish Delight.



It's a fantastic museum though and I'm so glad we went and saw another side to Istanbul. There is a lot of pretentious b****** but very interesting pretentious b*******. When you see some of the exhibits and then read what the artist was supposed to mean by it all you think yeah mate, sure you did! Why not just be honest and say you were totally stoned and this is what you found when you woke up the next day. Don't go on about the juxtaposition of the self moving esoterically away from the id.....it won't wash with me! Your work is interesting enough without your made-up malarkey.



There were a lot of video installations which we popped in and out of as we didn't have much time. The photographic exhibition was great and there was a fair bit to explore so well worth a visit.



What is it with taxi drivers? We asked a driver to take us back to our hostel today, he shook his head, pointed us to the other side of the road; so we went there and he followed us there and drove off. He had an ideal opportunity to rip us off as we were tired and running late and he still didn't take us. Bizarre.



After much uphill walking we found another taxi rank and he, quite fairly, said we weren't that far from our hostel so we battled onwards and, yes, upwards before finally getting to our hostel to retrieve our luggage. I then get a telling off for putting my hat in my hold luggage as we still had a bit of walking to do.



So, hats. I hate hats, they are uncomfortable, make your head sweat and mess up your hair. I wear one because the sun would incinerate my head and this is the only time anyone should wear one....oh go on then, maybe to keep your head warm in Winter. I'd rather be cold though. I do sometimes, occasionally, put my hood up....reluctantly. As soon as we hit a shady spot it's off with the hat which is blessed relief. I have a hat that I bought in Tunisia, it looks like something Crocodile Dundee would wear if he was a Texan and is a ridiculous thing. But it keeps me alive so fair dinkum cowboy.



We eventually found the bus service and tootled off to the airport on the Asian side of Istanbul. This side is more built up with lots of high rises but looked pretty modern. The flight with Pegasus was an hour long and took us to Kayseri where we got a transfer to Nevsehir. We're not quite sure why we ended up booking a hotel only five miles away from our next one in Goreme...but hey, we're in Cappadoccia!



The last flight we took from Izmir to Istanbul featured something I've never seen before. It annoys me when people get up and start taking their luggage down before the pilot says it is safe to do so by turning off his little light. But one passenger surpassed all that and, even before the plane had stopped moving, had run the full length of the plane to get to the front so he could get off first. I'd have made him go right to the back but justice doesn't always win out. Hopefully what goes around comes around and he'll one day be made to stay on the plane and go back again.



Anyway....we're actually going to Goreme tomorrow....and have just been taken through there on our way here...what a balls-up! We're in a nice hotel though and I'm guessing there'll be a boiled egg for breakfast so it can't be bad! The transfer guy gave everyone cold water on the bus which was a nice touch and then welcomed each person individually to their hotels. Helios transfers in case you're interested.



Goreme looks amazing, with buildings hewn out of the strange rock formations, and I'm looking forward to not just passing through it. The room we're in has a fan but it's that loud I'm guessing you can hear the damned thing!

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Photos

Some weird arty film
Istanbul Modern

Modern art
Very good it is too