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Published: September 21st 2019
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Norma and Jo catching up on the news waiting breakfast which was delayed due to "technical difficulties" at this science centre.10 September 2019, Tuesday
Abingdon to Wallingford day 10 on Thames Path, day 24 of travel.
One misty, moisty morning
When foggy was the weather
We met with old friends
Not dressed up in leather
With apologies to this old nursery rhyme, we do join together for our morning walk.
It is a very misty morning as we leave Cosenar's House for our 'daily constitution.'
At Abington lock there is a demonstration of how the old wooden weir system worked on the locks. This we attempted to describe earlier when we talked to Steven, the lock keeper at Northmoor. The upper and lower weir paddles are shown and the bottom supports in the river bed. It takes a person in excellent shape to handle this system. The display, almost like an outdoor sculpture, was a tribute to a lock keeper who had serviced that lock for many years---a meaningful tribute to his work!
The lock description includes a 1910 excerpt from an inspector's report on the need to pay the lockkeepers more money!
On down the river we pass "Muddy Waters," a narrowboat decorated with scenes from childrens' books.
The foggy morning is evident
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Cosener's House, a Rutherford Appleton laboratories conference center. from photos along the path. The still waters provide great reflection photography.
We pass Culham lock and more pillbox structures from WWII along the river banks. Next is Clifton lock.
At Barley Mow pub, with its historic old bar and thatched roof, (@1352) we stop for a good bowl of soup. Our guide book, an Official National Trail Guide, states "it is the best known of all Thames pubs." I ask the young bar keeper what makes his pub so well known and special--he has no idea!
Next is Days lock. Wittenham Clumps, a crowning mound of trees on a lovely symmetrical hill, is a focal point as we follow a long sweeping curve in the river before arriving at its base. As we move along, the clump seems to move also; alas, it never seems to move nearer to us!
As we approach Day's lock I am searching for the proverbial bench one finds at locks. It is such a restful respite to sit and watch a few boats go through the locks while resting sore feet! Two young men are searching for buried cables. I come up a slight incline and the youngest of
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Cosener's House front is a collection of many old Abbey buildings along a mill race the two says, 'U aw ri?" I have no idea what he has just said. Usually in a conversation, when you have no idea what is being discussed, one can nod and smile. However, in this case I knew an answer was expected. I said, "Pardon?" And he repeated the phrase. I again said my script and when he again, with more concern, repeated his role I realized he was asking if I was all right! I guess I was looking about as bad as I was feeling!! I assured him I was fine, a falsehood, and then went on my way searching for my bench!
At Shillingford we are along a busy highway, when we see a woman trimming her hedge. We are thinking of nothing but ice cream. Unhappily ice cream options are slim but fortuitously she tells us the path is just across the road to the river. After a quarter of a mile through narrow hedges and passageways we emerge at the main road and see a sign for ice cream. We are pointed down a drive, open a door into a small sun porch and it is as if we have gone through the
wardrobe and are in Narnia. Shelves are filled with used books for sale, there are ice cream bars in a freezer, a lovely, high white cake, one pound per slice. It is a self service honor system and we both have ice cream, purchase a card and Harlan has a cup of coffee. All proceeds of the sale of childrens' items go to a charity. Payment is put in a bowl. They also have an area for tent camping. Bills are put through the mail post slot.
Down to the river and past another boat yard and Wallingford meadow means we are getting close to our destination for the day. The Coachmaker Arms. We are on the 3rd floor but Jo has been nice to carry our three bags up to the second. Well, truthfully I think it was so they would have enough room to move in their abode. They were checking in at the same time as a couple and their dog and the proprietor gave the doggy couple their room! Umm---I would have to say this place was the lowest in lodging experiences and the highest in musical experiences.
We eat at The Old Post Office
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A butterfly plant location in the gardens nearby and have a great dinner.
On the way home we see a number of people entering our pub with instrument cases. They were gathering for a jam session in the little dining room. An older woman was in charge although it was certainly a loose group. There was a young woman and the rest were men of various ages. Someone would say they wanted to play a certain song in a certain key and off they would go. The music was American Blue Grass music of the hills, such as the Appalachia region. One gentleman sang the most beautiful ballad by Tom Paxton. Never heard it before but will not forget a most unexpected and memorable evening!
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