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Published: September 22nd 2019
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Coachmakers Arms Inn 11 September 2019, Wednesday
Wallingford to Pangbourne Thames Path day 10 day 25 of travel.
Why the Thames Path? - reflection by Karen
A number of people have asked the above question. Here is the 'short version' answer.
UK National Trails - there are fifteen National Trails. The Thames Path would surely be classified as one of the easiest. For almost three years, since the fall that resulted in a broken hip, I had been thinking of a 'doable' long distance walk. Long walks get in your blood and, after a period you get itching to hit the trail for an extended period. As Alfred Wainwright, the famed creator of the Wainwright Coast to Coast Trail said, "The only way you get to know a country is to walk it."
- One day, picking up a book on 'long walks in England,' a yellowed scrap of paper, going back many years, fell out; it told of the Thames Path. Now, what better idea than to follow a great nation's storied river from source to mouth? And, if you went from source to mouth--surely you would be going down a gradual gradient all the way--right? All the above
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A hat shop next door is correct and we have not been huffing and puffing up and down the steep hills of the beautiful Coast to Coast (Wainwright Trail) but, instead we have become mindful of a path covered with grass covered holes made from Mother Nature's vicissitudes: the river with caved in river banks, voles, and the deep cavities made by animals in the wet mud. We have often resorted to our poles to remain upright on a seemingly benign path. At these times 'the going' is slow and if one is dodging cow patties, the way can become rather disgusting! So, the goal has become, for some days, not to sprain an ankle!!!
And, we must admit it has been several years since the last long walk and we would now plan days of six or eight, possibly ten miles. Yesterday's 12.5 mile march was very tiring.
However, good company and good weather make the journey pleasant.
Leaving our lodging we pass by a number of interesting little shops. Wallingford is a very old market town as a result of being one of the first crossings of the river in the area.
Along the river we see several boat houses.
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Moving the shells Brooke's University are national rowing champions. They are very serious about their training.
This is Agatha Christie country and she had a home and lived nearby. She is buried at the local church.
Charles Dodgson, also known as Lewis Carroll, lived in the area. The daughter of a friend became the inspiration for Alice, of Alice in Wonderland.
One of the most interesting structures we see today are the railroad viaducts designed and built by an engineer with the name of Brunel. The brick work is beautifully crafted and the designs inspired. One stands under these immense works and the bricks swirl and dance around you. We frequently hear passing trains as we walk.
This is the day of the most elevation gain in our walk along the river. The English do not believe in executing zig-zags up, or down, a hill. One marches straight up a hill and then straight down a hill.
On our final descent we walk along the private Hartslock Estate, with its formidable green fence. The estate is immense and leaves one wondering what goes on behind the long, green barrier!
The use of stone and flint for walls
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Brookes University, in Oxford, are the national rowing champions. Here they are getting ready for morning practice and buildings become prevalent. When the sun's rays hit the flint the surfaces glisten and reflect the light.
Just before crossing the river on the second of the two toll bridges over the Thames, we pass through Whitchurch and briefly visit the church for which the town is named. The open timber construction is unique and relates to its Norman architecture.
At last we arrive at the Elephant Hotel in Pangbourne. Karen makes a quick trip to Oxfam and picks up a great pair of zip off pants for five pounds.
We have a lovely dinner, sitting in rough hewn, high backed wooden chairs. They have a special apple wood Bar-B-Que grill right in the dining room. Grilled meat is their specialty but that night we all had salads!
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