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Published: June 19th 2014
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June 12 - Estella to Los Arcos
We got up early today determined to beat the afternoon sun. As per my guide book 86% of today's walk is on delightful natural paths (translation mostly small thumbnail sized rocks on a hardened clay type surface - very hard of course on the feet). A 150 m elevation today through oak and pine trees and 200 m descent back into vineyards and open farm fields into Los Arcos again with no shade from the pounding sun - I now see why this time of year has the least pilgrims on the path.
About 3 km out from Estella there is a free water or wine font - Fuentes de vino - I emptied my small water bottle and filled up with the wine - when in Rome..
When we had walked about 13km a decision was necessary - stay for the night or carry on the last 9km in the relentless heat and sun to Los Arcos - of course we decided to carry on.
After about 4 km we regretted our decision - it had to be over 35 degrees
c and the humidity was unreal. We started to think we had made a grave mistake when over a rise and to the left we saw a mirage - in the middle of this desert there appeared a tent under which a women's social club was convening for tea. As we got closer we realized it was not a dream - we got to the tent and 6 Irish ladies from Cork invited us to sit with them and have a cool drink.
As it turns out each of the last few years three sisters and three of their dear friends do a stretch of the walk. Two of the sisters' husbands follow in a caravan to carry their luggage to the next town on their route, book their hotels and generally take care of these lovely ladies. We were invited to stay under the tent as long as we wanted - we cooled down - swapped some stories and had a lot of good laughs. They offered to have their husbands take our packs and even suggested we could stay at their hotel but we gratefully declined - all a bit surreal.
As
a storm brewed in the distance we and the 8 ladies form Cork left to complete the last stage.
They soon left us in their dust ( they had no backpacks ). I noticed though in the distance that at every turn there was two of them waiting to insure Tanya and I had made it around the next turn - this went on until we made it safely into town - we must have looked a worn out mess when we first came across them. Attached is a picture of me with them and their husbands in the square that night.
We booked a room in a small hostel and much to our surprise Mark and Debbie were there as well. We also ran into Pablo, Anna and the newlywed Austrian kids. We had a great pilgrim's meal together and as usual set off to bed to get a good start on the next day. We planned to walk with Mark and Debbie tomorrow and celebrate their 27th wedding anniversary with them.
Piss off of the day - the wine font was at the beginning of the stage not the
end
Tip of the day - don't walk in the midday sun
Blessing of the day - 6 Irish ladies from Cork
Funny event of the day - finding an oasis in the middle of our desert
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Sal & Al
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Mads Dogs & Englishmen
I don't know how you do it, but in all your pictures you are smiling despite the pain & heat etc. I think if I saw a wine font in the middle of nowhere that would be my oasis! And the best, 6 ladies from Cork! I told you Keith, the Irish always will go to your rescue :) Loving the blogs, and so proud of your accomplishment each day! I cheer you on from my lazy boy! Sal n Al xoxoxo