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Published: September 29th 2017
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We were awake by 6:30, and since everyone else was asleep, we had the free (included) breakfast before packing up. They had coffee, tea, toast with jam, leftover tortilla, and I was lucky to get a piece of the cake from last night's dinner. By the time we finished, everyone in our room was up and the lights were on, making it a lot easier to pack up. By 7:30 We were on the Camino heading to Sarria. Less than half an hour and 2 kilometers later, we entered Sarria, still pretty dark.
By the time we reached the main part of town it was more less daylight. We immediately started seeing more pilgrims at one time than we'd seen in a long time. We stopped for coffee a little after 8:30 at a bar called Mason O Tapas. Along the way we had picked up a young South Korean guy who had been an actor in South Korea. Very interesting, but we left/lost him a while later. We climbed up out of Sarria and soon started passing a lot of "newbies", some struggling with their backpacks.
Over the next hour or so, and 5 or 6 kilometers, we
passed through a few tiny towns with no sign, and stopped for breakfast in a nice bar/restaurant in A Serra. Besides our usual tortilla, we each had a piece of homemade cake. About an hour later, and several steep ups and downs, we came upon what I think was a creek crossing from the movie The Way. See the photo. Along the way, we caught up with Eduardo and Silvia at a rest stop at Ferreiros. Silvia heard we had reservations in Portomarin, so she called to add 3 more and told them we'd be there by 3pm. They left before we did, but we caught up with them about 20 minutes later and ended up getting to Portomarin over 30 minutes before they did, right around 3pm. We stopped briefly for the last time about 1:45 and soon after got our first view of Portomarin.
The sign at that point showed 3 different trails into Portomarin, so we chose the shortest one and entered town a little after 2:30, with the usual "you haven't done enough climbing" bit we've come to expect, except this time it was a very steep set of stairs over the road, followed by
a steep road into town and our albergue, Albergue Ultreia. When we went to check in, the lady told us there was no water, for now, but we were too tired to care. We did our usual routine, minus the shower, I talked to my wife, who is now in Spain too, then we headed out for a late lunch around 4pm. We decided to try the place the albergue lady had recommended for pulpo (octopus), Restaurante Perez. I told Raresh I would try it, but wasn't going to spend 10 or 12 euros on something I might not like at all. I ordered lentil soup and macaroni with meat and tomato sauce, and Raresh the half order of octopus menu with lentil soup as a first dish. I did try the octopus, but it was a bit chewy and rather spicey. Raresh seemed to like it though. Raresh's feet were a little swelled up, so he returned to the albergue while I went to a supermarket to find something light for dinner, some dark chocolate for Raresh, and to replenish my supply of instant coffee and La Lechera (a heavy sweetened milk).
Tomorrow we planning on walking to
Palas del Two, or somewhere close... about another 27 kilometers. Right now, we are about 92 kilometers from the cathedral in Santiago, and aim to get there before 10am, four days from now.
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