When the moon is in the seventh house And Jupiter aligns with Mars Then peace will guide the planets And love will steer the stars

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June 23 - Foncebadon to Molinesca



Well this is it. The walk to Cruz de Ferro - a simple iron cross atop a weathered pole - people for centuries have been leaving stones or other tokens of love, remembrance, blessing or all of the above at the base of the pole - I would estimate the mound is 15 feet high at the top extending out over 30 feet all the way round. The mound is huge - I will be making it bigger and my pack lighter at the same time.



I have carried three small stones from Canada - one from my family plot in remembrance of my ancestors and specifically my grandmother, dad and brother David. The other two stones are form China - a good friend - Barry asked me to place them in remembrance of his father and Auntie. Tanya has also asked me to place 4 stones she carried over from Canada. I have also picked up various small stones along the way to place for family and friends (including you kind reader) at home and abroad generally.



I actually got to sleep last night - I go to bed kitted out to fight off the swarm of flies in our room - I reverse up my mummy bag so that most of my head is covered and use my hat to cover the rest - very hot but did the trick.



There are eight of us in the bunk room - lights start flickering very early - Doreen and Meagan and the Italian couple are up and out into the small courtyard.



Albergue etiquette dictates you can get up any time you want - just try to be organized the night before and get out of the room as quickly and quietly as possible and in the dark - no lights on - except pen lights or headlamps - we all do this as deftly as bulls in china shops.



I decide I will follow suit and after hitting my head on the top bunk I grab my stuff am in the courtyard as well. I ask Doreen what time it is - it is 4:15 - it is too late to change my mind and re-enter. Doreen & Meagan kindly invite me to walk with them. They have a headlamp and penlight - I have nothing having - I my headlamp back to Canada with Tanya.



It is pitch black - we can only see a few feet ahead - this is treacherous - we are inching are way up the path like snails - Doreen remembers she has a flashlight ap on her cell phone - it makes all the difference. We make it to the cross in about 1/2 hour and await sunrise.



As the sun starts to come up we climb the mound one after the other and place our stones. A few other pilgrims are there as well - tears (of course) and hugs are shared in silence. It is a humbling, powerful experience.



I only get one good shot of the cross as the sun finally breaks through.



We leave around 6:am to begin a long descent followed by another climb and even bigger descent. My guide book warns of injuries and worse again - as always the path has my full attention.



We stop for a cafe con leche and our backpack breakfast (baguette, tomato, salt and boiled eggs) at a canteen on the way down. I forge past Doreen and Meagan I slog it all the way to Molinesca. I see Manfred in town and we agree to start looking for an Albergue. We see a sign for 6€ in one of 3 - 4 person bunk rooms. We pay at the hotel reception and the girl shows us an abandoned house across the street - I thought the bunks were in the hotel - drat.



We hike over to the house, find a bunk and shower. The place is an abandoned home frozen in time - reminds me of the communes of the 60s / early seventies. There are wild but still fruit bearing trees out front - all the furniture, fixtures and appliances are right out of a 1960 house and home magazine - another surreal moment.



At the moment the only other two inhabitants are a woman from Japan and a shaman - Gro from Brazil - probably seventy. Gradually the place fills up : a Spanish woman, a family of 6 Spaniards and to fill up Doreen and Meagan as well - we are always shocked to repeatedly see the same people but every book that I read says it is not coincidence - people are on the same rhythm that's all - this will happen for a few days and with one small change in routine you will not see that pilgrim for days or more likely never again.



The Spanish group heads to town - Spain plays tonight in the World Cup and even though eliminated the bars will be full.



Doreen (an ex chef) wants to make supper and asks if we will join - Gro and the Japanese woman are also in. Doreen cooks up a great spaghetti - tomatoes, chorizo sausage, leeks, white onion, a green type mini squash and garlic - side dish = plain or garlic / cheese toasted baguette. Manfred and I provide wine- 3€ a bottle, butter and cherries I picked out front - the Japanese woman provided an almond tart and Gro her easy banter. The meal and evening was great. We did not solve the worlds problems but for two short hours we told stories and laughed.



Then we each take our leave and go to bed - tomorrow comes early...







Piss off of the day - I have never owned a cell phone and for years I have preached that I know of no one that was ever saved by one - today I was - a bitter pill to swallow



Tip of the day - never walk to a mountain peak before sunrise



Blessing of the day - the Cruz de Ferro experience



Funny event of the day - talking to a seventy year old Cuban ( her family escaped Cuba after Fidel took over) American ( they went to the US for her formative years as a child) Brazillian - (has spent over 50 years there) Shaman whose business is organic vegetables - when I first met her with her bum length Rastafarian pony tail and eye glasses held together with a bandaid I thought she was somehow challenged - as it turns out she speaks several languages, plays guitar is a farmer and is probably the most informed person I met on the walk about any number of topics - why not - as Gro pointed out after all this is the drawing of the age of Aquarius.

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