18 September 2019: Relocating, Solo Shopping, Last Supper....and the Fun Train.

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Hey, we leave Santiago tomorrow, but first we have to change accommodation.

When our flights were booked to Frankfurt Hahn Airport, I couldn’t extend our booking at the Monastery, so I rebooked at a hotel a few steps from the airport bus. We will still eat breakfast at the Monastery tomorrow, 6€, cheap cheap, so it’s really a win win from our viewpoint.

We enjoyen our usual breakfast at San Martin’s, said thanks and goodbye to the stocky waiter who I had a few chats with over our stay; he gave me a hug and sadly wandered into the kitchen - well, a slight exaggeration . We were earlier today and the crowd was yet to arrive. These waiters are full on. They are waiters, baristas, kitchen hands, table cleaners and setters, and they do a great PR job as well; 55 hours a week. I’ll bet they’ve never heard of penalty rates either.

Sue has wanted to browse in the shops ever since we arrived here, and today and tomorrow are the days. I gave her some rose petals to throw out as she walks, so she can find her way back. What a sense of direction. We organised to meet in an hour and a half, and when I arrived she was at the meeting place, happy with a couple of earrings she had bought. Tomorrow is another day.

Even though we had booked out of the Monastery, we were able to go back for coffee, and still use the wifi and amenities. Lunch was served at one, and the menu of sautéed green beans with jamon, meatballs in a pimentos sauce and rice, finished off with homemade cream caramel was too good to pass up. Our waiter was a guy I remembered from my other visits here, and I had wondered what had become of him. He’s a very conservative quiet man, but when Sue didn’t finish her main, he told her, No dessert for you!, and placed both in front of me and walked off. Same with coffee; I had a cup, Sue received a dribble, that he then filled. The man was funny.

After lunch, we approached the square and the tourist train was about to leave. It was an historic tour but all we seemed to have pointed out to us were recent 20th century structures. The train was loaded, we had our own headphones tuned into our language of choice, and the driver did not slow down for speed traps or potholes at all. The cobbled streets were challenging enough, and I’m hoping to have lost enough weight to offset my evening ice cream cone. What I came away with is that Santiago is a major university town, with a medical faculty as well as a nursing school. The university is spread over the town area, with buildings developed as the need arose. Student accommodation is clusters of low rise apartments and there is a constant flow of young people going to or from classes.

We completed our check in at the new hotel at 3pm, and spent some time juggling our case loads, to ensure we complied with the airline requirements. It can cost serious euros if the weights or dimensions are over. We will just make it. Gift buying has added some weight, and my first consideration when assessing any purchases was, what does this weigh?

After a relaxing couple of days getting our breath back and sorting out little tasks that can’t be avoided - washing, banking, sleeping in the afternoon ( Sue ) - we are ready to leave. Sue thinks it’s the best break we’ve had together for ages, I’d agree, and add that I just love wandering around the old portico lined streets, seeing excited pilgrims arrive at the Cathedral , and having no set routine or plans; we just go with the flow.

Dinner was meant to be a couple of pieces of fruit, but I took Sue to Maycar, vinoteca taperia, a classic cafe near where we are staying, and coincidentally, near where we stayed in 2014. This place runs like clockwork, and the 3 men who run it have clearly defined roles that crossover into each other; it’s amazing just to watch it. We had tostados, with jamon, and another with grilled pimientos topped with caramelised goats cheese; how good does that sound. It was a treat; the sweet cheese complimented the salty ham and the lightly burnt skin of the pimientos. And the smell was out of this world.

A slight improvement on a couple of pieces of fruit.

We walked into the town, bought the obligatory cone, and went and sat with the old men arguing in the park.

Living in apartments must get everyone out walking, sitting, or just gathering with friends at night. I know it’s a tourist destination, but most of the crowd in the park look like locals. Maybe they just know how to enjoy themselves more than we do. I’m sure they are not as materially well off as most of us, so the simple pleasures do.

Tomorrow we fly out at about 4pm, so there’s still time to enjoy Santiago. Until then, see you.

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Photos

Our Last Sunset From The Monastery
This was better than it looks. You can see our field of vision. Roof tiles at the top, Roof tiles at the bottom. To Sue’s horror, I used the bottom section to air my laundry.

Pulpo
This delicious dish is boiled in a special way, drizzled with olive oil, and has a light sprinkle of paprika over it. It tastes great , but I fully understand why people won’t try it.

7am Sunrise.
It didn’t get light until after 8am, and the view from the shower was 5 star.

Sunrise
Shows the small gap between roofs, and the constant bank of windows for each room.

The Derby Cafe
A beautiful cafe with good food and coffee, but that waiter at the bar hates his job; you can tell.

“ It’ll be OK. “
Sue consoling Saint James, reassuring him that everything will be put back where it was.

No Botafumeiro
It normally hangs, and swings, from the rope in the centre of the main picture. On closer inspection, I’m not sure I’d sit in it’s path again. The pulley is simple, with no safety brake, and the smaller ropes coming off the larger one look like something I’d throw away. And the 5 guys who control it, hang onto them.

The Cathedral Is In Limbo
Plastic sheeting, scaffolding, and barriers, prevent mass or much else from being held here.

Medieval Food Processor
Just drop your grain or corn in the top hole, turn the handle, and you have flour. Heavy but energy efficient.

Monestario Benedictinas
This convent of nuns cooks the local Santiago Tart. To purchase it, you have 5€ ready, go to the opening on the left of the main door, push the buzzer, the door opens, the exchange takes place, you walk away with a Tart; not a word exchanged.

The Great Santiago Tarts
Gluten free, and they are very moorish. I cook a tweaked version with cinnamon short pastry, and a moist lemon base. Where can I rent a factory?

The Silver Plaza
It’s crowded everywhere. Santiago is no longer just a destination for pilgrims. People on pilgrimage tours, tourists in Spain, and the influx of people completing shorter, or assisted walks, has made Santiago a busy spot. It adds to the vibe, everyone is friendly, so it’s good for the town

The Last Supper At The Monastery Of Saint Martin
We decided to eat the 3 course lunch served in the Monastery dining room, instead of battling the crowds. I have 2 desserts because the waiter wouldn’t give Sue hers as she didn’t finish her vegetables. He must have kids. Lovely setting, right?

St Francis Xavier’s Church, and 4 star hotel attached.
I don’t think they cater for the poor there.

St James The Apostle.
The man responsible for the whole show. There is some scepticism about the details of his arrival, and subsequent discovery in this region, but that’s what faith is all about. It’s still a great experience.

San Bonito De Palermo
Born in 1526 in Italy, this son of African slaves pursued a pastoral life at 21, became a Franciscan monk for the Convent of Santa Maria Del Jesus in Palermo, and was canonised in 1807 for his work.

Bad Timing
This was the only shot I took from the Fun Train as I was scared my camera would jump out of my hands from the rattling ride. The driver parked so everyone could get a good shot of the Cathedral. It’s behind the tree. Ha!

A Couple Of Benedictine Nuns
I’m not sure who is supporting who.

Cola Cao
A gift for Tim. What a father I am. Still, it’s the thought that counts. It’s a very rich chocolate drink. If you order it in a cafe, they give you hot milk and a sachet; make it yourself.

The Two Marias
This iconic statue sits, or rather stands, in the park, and symbolises the close friendship these local identities shared until the 1980’s when one passed away.

Oh my, how the view has changed.
We share a view, and face, other people who wish they had a better view. But the sunset looks nice, our room is nice, so no complaints