17 September 2019: Pedicures, Haircuts, The Abastos Market, and Degustacion Dining.


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Europe » Spain » Galicia » Santiago de Compostela
September 17th 2019
Published: September 17th 2019
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University Cloister, Santiago University Cloister, Santiago University Cloister, Santiago

This building used to be a Monastery and now holds the history and research section of the university
Pretty tired today. I stayed up last night updating pictures for the 3 days they wouldn’t load up. They are now all there, and if people want to, when this post is opened, just select previous entry, and go back to Vigo and check out the pictures on each post. I was going to do it today but I started it , thought it was easy, but the time flew away on me.

This morning I did a little googling and located a place where Sue could have a pedicure, so a walk across town was our first trip for the day. When I say first trip, it was 10.30 before we left the Monastery, after breakfast and a little clothes washing. Peluqueria Beymar is located up a dark tiny mall, just over the road from our next hotel. It’s a ‘ mum and dad small business’ - aren’t you sick of that term - and mum does the feet, dad cuts the hair.

Cuts the hair ? I’m lining up for a trim while Sue has her feet dealt with. The lady placed Sue’s feet in a foot spa, dripped a few drops of essential oils in, and hoped that these tired feet would be cured through osmosis. I was the interpreter during all of this, picking up what the woman was asking, and keeping the conversation going by cobbling a few sentences together with my limited vocabulary.

I’ve learnt she has a pretty car, she has no cat, she lives in a small house, and she’s well. She also buys red apples at the corner store.

She knows I’m grateful: gracias, mucho gracias !

I’ll never regret the hours and hours I’ve spent honing these skills. Hopefully they benefit my brain.

Sue lost these close ties with the local community after I went to ask about a haircut. He was very gentle and had the scissors going like Edward Scissor hands. Sue thought he was approaching one hair at a time. He’d ask me about cutting some part of my hair, I would reply , Si, and then he was away again, at a different part of my hair than I had approved. I had no idea what I was approving, but it was all good in the end. Mucho gracias !

Our main objective for the day was a tour of
Abastos Market, Santiago Abastos Market, Santiago Abastos Market, Santiago

Serving Galicians since 1873, this market sources all of the popular but hard to access seafoods and vegetables, that go into making traditional Galician dishes. Locals use the market as a gathering place, and the hippy market located on the outskirts ensures it is always a lively, vibrant place.
the local market, followed by a degustacion meal at Abastos 2.0, a popular eatery that designs new recipes daily, depending in what is available in the market on the day.

We followed the main road that rings the old town, and entered at a point where the university linked with the market. Sue is amazed at my ability to navigate the streets and narrow lanes of Santiago, but I’ve been there 4 times, its not a big place, and when in doubt, I just stride forward with confidence. The last time I walked with someone, his awareness of where he was was so limited that if I spun him around on the spot 3 times, he wouldn’t have found himself.

As we approached the restaurant, the outside area was full but no one sat inside. A dismissive waiter told us it was all booked and to find a seat outside. No help, the new feet and haircut had no influence, and I made a note to drape a fine wool, soft pastel pullover casually around my neck in future: this seemed to get results. The young lady who did serve our tastings was very engaging and friendly, so
Market HallsMarket HallsMarket Halls

While the emphasis is on seafood, the market provides meat , vegetables, a wide range of alcoholic beverages, and of course, flowers.
our meal experience was positive. And I do see this sort of thing as an experience. The food we were offered was unusual, very delicious, and still qualified as a meal because there was about 7 small servings. Sue is not sure about raw fish and meat, but tried them all. At one stage I asked Sue how she was enjoying the meal; she looked concerned. I soon learned that she had quickly misread the name of the market and restaurant, and had seen Asbestos 2.0, instead of Abastos 2.0. With this cleared up, she settled in for a pleasant , asbestosis free afternoon.

I enjoyed everything, but must admit that I find prawns are maybe not worth the effort to prise open the shells to reach the tender meat. The grand finale for Sue was the complimentary shot of a local version of Baileys Liqueur, Habelas Hailas - a rough Galician translation being, Oh, Oh, I Think I’m Sleepy Now. Sweeter than Baileys and possibly developed by NASA.

Looking around the lounge area of the Monastery, the age group is generally my age or older. Younger people are probably out at bars, or exploring the streets and
Student Life, Santiago Student Life, Santiago Student Life, Santiago

A circle of students laugh and drink coffee, oblivious to the fact that the university is around the corner. Some things are international.
sights that Santiago offers up. But, judging from the breakfast room crowd, this place is full of , as my son Tim constantly refers to as, cashed up baby boomers. A bit harsh coming from a Luxembourg banker, but I’m happy to wear it. I know he’s not talking about me. And he’s right.

We are all privileged to be able to travel, enjoy good health, and hopefully share our good fortune around. Our parents did it tough, our children are certainly finding it harder than we did, and I can honestly say that free university, affordable housing, and a generous taxation system certainly have helped, not hindered our generation.

Well, we’ve gone from riches to rags for dinner. Abastos 2.0 is a distant memory as we tuck into our 8€ kebab meal deal, with a coke and sauce covered chips on the side. It was pretty tasty and was a quick fix for our last night in the Monastery.

Tomorrow we have to transfer our bags across the old town, and check in to the Hotel Universal. Tim and I stayed there last November, and it’s very conveniently placed for the airport bus on Thursday. Step
Abastos 2.0Abastos 2.0Abastos 2.0

Just in front of the market entrance. This original marketside eatery creates new dishes daily from what is offered at the market , with the emphasis on seafood.
out of the hotel, walk 5 steps, step onto the bus. Tomorrow we will tidy up a few loose ends, as far as things to do and see, revisit some favourite cafes, and chill out.

Catch you then.


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Abastos 2.0Abastos 2.0
Abastos 2.0

This original marketside eatery creates new dishes daily from what is offered at the market , with the emphasis on seafood.
Rock Fish and DessertRock Fish and Dessert
Rock Fish and Dessert

The fish is steamed and coated with ‘ other’ parts of the fish that are blended and spiced. Dessert was apple, vacuum sealed in a citrus wrap and placed in the fridge for 4 hours. Cannolis round it off.
Chimneys Chimneys
Chimneys

Back in the day when the Church presided over Santiago, and a few influential families held too much power, the size of your chimney was a symbol of success and status. With chimneys, size did matter.


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