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Published: October 14th 2016
20 September 2016, Tuesday, day 22, Oia to Baiona. Parador Baiona. 12.03 miles
The Hotel A Raina was managed by a deaf couple. The mother of the son helped as well. The hotel was lovely, simple, clean and the service very good; there was nothing more that we wanted or needed. So disappointed I did not get a picture of them all. So wonderful to see people who are doing so well in spite of their particular handicap.
Today we re-learned how to sign good morning. Baby Signing Time does help the old as well as the young. Just google it. It is the sun rising. Breakfast began at 7 :00 but sunrise is not until after 8:30 so we met at 7:30 for breakfast. The mother had fresh tomatoes from her garden. A treat served with the usual bread, jam, coffee and ham. No fruit today.
About 8:30 we started our walk for the day. The Camino routes us on a secondary road along the coast. We have only walked about 1.3 kilometers when we saw a man cutting and stacking corn. Then at 2.5 kilometers, a handsomely dressed scarecrow. Another house that was shaped like a
boat was also sighted nearby. They seem to be popular in this region. Next we encountered a 4 inch slug taking the slow route to Santiago. Pretty yards and unique structures and objects was the order for this day.
It was a cool, clear day and the 3/4 moon shown for the entire morning in the western sky. We crossed on to the Highway PO 552 at milepost 36. After 6 kilometers we found an albergue cafe in As Marinas.
As we walked along the highway we passed a nice Hotel Glasgow with a tour bus loading just beyond and thought this would also have been a nice place to stay. But the Hotel A Raina provided a meaningful experience.
At the Hotel Silleiro we stopped for a drink and sandwich. We had great views of the coast and a lighthouse. Our route then continued up over the mountain range along an old Roman track with carriage or chariot wheels cutting deep grooves into the rocks. This 4 kilometers was a steep up and down but through a field and forest. We had several photos of dogs, sheep, horses and a man at his gate with a
sign, "I am a pilgrim."
Our last 3 kilometers were back along the busy PO 552 to the parador about mile marker 26. The couple from Riga, Latvia, had stopped near a parking area on the coast and asked where we were staying. They copied the information from my booklet which we had obtained at A Guarda. From here the harbor and old fort offered some great photos. We also saw a statue of Captain Martin Alonso Pinzon, captain of one of Columbus's ships, the Pinta. Pinzon returned to Spain March 1st, 1493, to Baiona, Spain. It is believed he sent a letter to the king and queen about the land discoveries but it either did not reach the court or they chose not to use it in choosing the man to be associated with the announcement. Columbus returned, and forced by a storm landed in Lisbon, Portugal on March 4th. It is believed, because of his seniority and influence, the court decided it would be Columbus who would be associated with the New World discoveries - even though they were reportedly miffed that he had landed first in Lisbon - albeit the action was forced by a storm!
We check into the parador and I must say it was a long, long trek through the gate and up the hill! Harlan and I decide we will go and explore the pretty little town with two goals in mind - find some silicone toe separators for me and some Compeed blister patches for Jo. We find the first item in the first farmacia but not the second. We then go in search of the second farmacia. But first is an ice cream stop. At the second stop, we have success with the second item.
Now we search for a restaurant I have read about. We find it but, of course, it is not open yet and no sign of life. We return fifteen minutes after opening time and the place is still shuttered. Now we choose another establishment nearby. Restaurant Tunel turns out to be very unsatisfactory. Harlan and Jo spend much time going over the bill with the waiter when we were finally able to get it and noone is happy. So, here is a big complaint about restaurants in Spain and Portugal! They automatically bring bread and butter to your table; perhaps some delicious olives
also arrive. You can push them to the edge of the table and not be charged. If, however, you eat a piece of bread, you are charged for the entire basket! This might be two or three euros. If a few thin slices off ham are on the plate and you eat only a slice a bread you are charged for the whole plate and now, because of the meat addition, you are paying four or five euros's. A large part of the bill might be the bread, olives and cheese. So, as the discussion continues, I wander down the street past the restaurant that was closed and what do I see but a happy throng of people in the restaurant we had wanted to go to! Obviously they had opened in the interim but much later than stated on the door and internet site for the restaurant. Oh me, the vagaries of Spanish time and information accuracy!
We climbed the hill, pass through the gate and wander through the beautiful landscape up to our comfortable home for the night.
Tot: 2.328s; Tpl: 0.065s; cc: 11; qc: 32; dbt: 0.0292s; 2; m:saturn w:www (126.96.36.199); sld: 2;
; mem: 1.3mb