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Published: November 17th 2016
Windmills in the fog
Bright blades reflecting the morning sun2 October 2016, Sunday, Olveiroa to Cee, day 3 on the way to Cape Finisterre, called Fisterre in Galicia. 12.6 miles
Today was only a 19 kilometer day. The very prolific waymarks say from 35.000 kilometers to 16.000 kilometers.
We start from Hotel Pension AS Pias in a light fog. Breakfast was toast and jam until I asked for ham and cheese which were quickly provided but not offered. The coffee and fresh orange juice were about the best we have had since Lisbon.
Simon, whom we met two nights earlier, was finishing his breakfast and on his way to Finisterre, a 35 kilometer day for him. His flight leaves Madrid for Melbourne on the 4th so he will bus back to Santiago, take night train to Madrid and catch his flight home. The schedule of the young! Exhausts us.
We listen to the water falling in a valley below that we can not see in the fog. The mist is magical. The sun reflects off the wind turbines with part of its blades above the fog; the spider web with mist; and, the almost silhouette of Karen on the bridge are scenes we enjoy. The day
was through woods with only one short stretch along a road. This meant we could hear the birds and gurgle of water.
While the vistas were great the sea mist has made photos not as good. We arrived at Hotel Larry about 3 PM and our bags were waiting.
Karen's notes--This is one of those magical days that will forever be imprinted on my mind. Jo had mentioned walking to Finisterre several times. It is a four day journey from Santiago and the trip really had no appeal for me. The goal was Santiago and we made it --two times. Why would I want to lace up boots again and head West to the "End of the World?"
But here we are, day three, along this Camino extension.
Our spirits are high as we leave the beautiful little village known for its horreos. A very large percentage of the day will be off-road and the earthen tracks feel good under our feet. Harlan has mentioned the 'magical mist' and that it is! It drifts on and off the trail. I am busy chattering away, happy to have found my 'walking stride' when a huge, ghostly shape
appears out of the mist. I am close to an anxiety attack right on the trail when I realize it is a blade of a windmill! It is huge and right off the path. I had been comfortably making my way, actually much faster than usual, and had not expected a ghostly specter from outer space to arise from the morning mist!
We take our time, enjoying the early morning. We photograph spider webs and Jo takes a picture of a couple hugging on a small bridge -- umm, they look vaguely familiar! Wonder if we have seen them before!?
We go around two sides of a huge paddock where some mares and colts are pastured. Jo and I spend some time watching one colt and his mother. We start to laugh as we think we are witnessing a 'dressing down' of the colt. The stances of the two animals, their eye contact, or lack of eye contact, is quite compelling. Unfortunately, we must move on -- we do not know who won the standoff.
We next arrive at the little village of Logoso. We have a good morning coffee al fresco.
We leave the mist
and travel through a beautiful morning. We arrive at the huge Dumbria marker where pilgrims are making a big decision -- left to Finisterre or right to Muxia, a lovely little fishing village. An author of a Santiago to Finisterre guidebook has stated this is a site "where the magic of the Camino often operates." Groups who have been traveling together are now faced with a decision as to which branch they will take. Often there are adjustments made as keeping the group together has become more important than a single pilgrim's original travel plans.
We turn south toward Finisterre. We have just gone a short distance when a truck whizzed past us and we glimpse an animal in the back. Following is another truck loaded with hunting dogs and they are in a frenzy. We all think the same thing -- perhaps they have tracked down a wild boar -- now riding behind in the first truck! Wild boar is often featured on Galician menus.
We next pass a beautiful little chapel sited in a copse of trees nearby a stream. Alongside the church is a small attached, roofed structure housing a book where one can record
your name. The name of this beautiful little house of worship is Capila da Nosa Senora das Neves. What I really remember about this scene are the abundance of wildflowers growing, seemingly, right out of hard, compacted soil. They do not have any big stems but are splotches of purple amidst golden dry leaves.
This the day we first spot the Atlantic long this rocky, treacherous coastline and that is very exciting! The green hills go up and down and we go up and down. The paths are easy on the feet. The air is so fresh. The temperature is perfect-- all is copacetic. I am reminded of some scenes from "The Sound of Music" with the drop dead scenery and the music. Oh yes, we are singing! Well, Jo and Harlan are doing most of the singing 😊 That is a good thing! Jo can remember lyrics, as can Harlan and when he can't he just makes some up!
We are now on a steady downward trek and can see, off in the distance, Cape Finisterre. Our lodging is in Cee. The pretty little town parades along the shoreline of Os Agulions de Sagrelos bay. However It
takes multiple inquiries to find the lodging! But the Google Maps shows us the right streets to take.
Hotel Larry is a family run establishment. At dinner time we go into rather a formal dining room. However, the owner, who has now put on a chef's apron, is in and out of the kitchen talking with us. It is one of the tastiest meals of the whole trip and so unexpected.
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