Day 13: 21kms To Hornillos, Busloads Of Pilgrims, 480kms To Santiago

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What’s blacker than Burgos during a total blackout?

Nothing.

Within 10 minutes of returning to my room from dinner, the lights went out. A small emergency light flickered, dim light caste shadows in the foyer outside my room, but our power was gone. No TV, no chargers , no wifi , no nuthin’.

As luck would have it, the entertainment began on the streets below. The well dressed Spaniards, moments earlier strolling along arm in arm enjoying the evening, went scurrying like rats to avoid being mugged, or worse, by some opportunist. That was enough to amuse me. That, and the sight across the street of the locals resuming their lives by candlelight , unaware of the bored Australian across the way, observing their equally dull lives through the prism of his own blacked out existence.

The blackout signalled bedtime for me, so at 10.30 I turned all switches off in case the power came back on.

At 7am I was up, organising my pack, taping my feet, and enjoying my first morning shower in 2 weeks. And it was a long hot shower. Greg, the American from the previous day, was in the breakfast room so we shared a table and he described the riot in the street last night that I obviously slept through.

I left Burgos alone but was joined by an American couple and their friend for the walk to Hornillos. We took a wrong turn and ended up, not lost, but certainly heading elsewhere.

I enjoyed the walk through Burgos; it was cool enough to wear a vest and despite being a week day, the path was quiet and wound through green shady parks before turning towards the countryside.

Today is the first day of the Meseta, the long sparse plains that continue until Léon.

The Meseta is regarded as the mentally testing section of the Camino, and continues for about a week, depending on how quickly you walk. It is typically flat, with few trees, and at this time of year is mainly freshly harvested stubble or ploughed fields. And they go to the horizon at times.

I enjoy it because the paths are better, my feet are usually track hardened and durable by then, and it’s a peaceful time on the Camino.

The Way was very crowded today because 2 buses dropped off walkers at Tarjados, to walk the final 10 kilometres.

I booked ahead to ensure a bed was available in the albergue we have stayed in before, so I was not concerned. I’m in a room of 6 and another room is full of women from a bus.

What did concern me was, when I quietly left the track and walked down a steep hill on soft golden stubble in the adjoining field, a bus load of women followed me, chatting in Spanish; my quiet little diversion was blown. When I finally turned around to see where all the noise was coming from, the Americans thought it was hilarious and had a great laugh at my expense. I was the Pied Piper of Hornillos. I went back to the steep stone covered track and left soft fields to them.

Hornillos was soon only a short walk along a tree lined path, and we entered this medieval village at about 1.30.

Hornillos is a short walk and a favourite place for me on the Camino. It is one of the last medieval villages we pass through and other than albergues and a few bars, it appears uninhabited. We were greeted at the entrance to town by 2 elderly women in dressing gowns, greeting us and wishing us , Buen Camino; have a good journey.

I’m sharing a room with Aussie Matt and his girlfriend and his first comment was, “ At least there’s not a grand final on today !”

Matt’s got to learn to let go. It was funny when he looked up and saw me at the door. He is good company and they are both very friendly.

I have a bottom bunk, proper sheet and pillow case, and am having paella and salad for dinner. It’s perfect. My feet have been great, the blisters are slowly healing, so I’ll be in sandals again tomorrow.

I feel I’m getting into the ‘vibe’ of the Camino and the Meseta will be very calming.

I’m hoping to draw a line through the recent past and reinvent myself ( again?) and pursue the many opportunities that will present themselves.

An opportunity like the Camino does not always come along when you need it, so I’m taking it on.

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Photos

Last Night In Burgos
Paella in this cosy warm restaurant.

Late Start
It’s 8.15 and the sun still struggles to light up the day

Puente Malatos
Leaving Burgos, you cross the river again before moving west

Cool, Green Parks Leaving Burgos
This is featured in the film, The Way

río Arlanzón
Further along the way

Tarjados
The drop off point for two busloads of pilgrims

Rabe de las Calzados
I have good memories of this neat little village

Rabe de las Calzados
2018 vs 2014. Sue and I passing through 4 years ago

Crossroad Just Before Hornillos
No haystack but it’s me in 2018, and Sue and I in 2014.

Hornillos
I made it. At a very reserved pace as well.i might finally becoming a bit smarter about this walking thing.

The Backyard
Alfar’s backyard hasn’t changed and is a warm spot to hang out and chat after the days journey

Hornillos
Pretty laidback.

A Reno Project
If it could only talk, it would have yarns dating back hundreds of years

Comments

[Kate Kobzar]

Car Rental
Wow! What's a great review! I wish I could get Santiago using a car rental service. That would be amazing experience.

[sherrys]

Walking is the Way
There are many ways but walking , for me, leaves no regrets or doubts. Of course, not everyone can walk, or has the time. Each to their own.