Day12: Sleep In, No Earplugs, Laundry Done (For Me), I’m Fresh Again.

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Well, I’ve been reduced to buying soap by weight.

No snoring, farting or other sweet lullabies last night ( none I could hear anyway ), and I woke at the indulgent hour of 9am; this is the life. The breakfast buffet was opulent by Camino standards and I carb loaded. The fruit was too big to pocket a few pieces, so that budget plan was abandoned. The management here are on to my tricks.

I shared a table with Greg from the States, who is about my age and is aiming to reduce his impatience, and go home a calmer man with more tolerance for others. He runs a construction company. Greg has just completed 2x40 kilometre days and 2x30 kilometre days. He knows it’s ridiculous; his feet have been declared a disaster zone, by him, so he will slow down and follow the stages in the guide. Otherwise , Santiago could be just a dream.

I stepped out at 10.30 into a cold , biting breeze and immediately regretted not wearing something warmer.

Toughen up Steve, you have just walked 288 kilometres over some unforgiving, hostile terrain, and after just one night in a hotel you react to a few goosebumps.

I straightened up and split the cold air with my new resolve. I was on a mission; I had beauty products to buy.

My elation at walking out of the ‘Chinese’ shop with my new adapter was worth much more than the €8 it cost, and I knew today would be better. Next stop was for soap. I used my limited Spanish in a bakery to find out where the supermarket was, and had a brief chat with the baker and a customer; I did a lot of nodding and “ Sí, Sí, Vale, Vale.” ; a great fallback when you have lost the plot.

The soap range was complicated. Pink, green, organic, bio.something, boxes of various sizes, but no simple, single, sweat and pain soothing soap in sight. I wanted one bar to wash both body and hair. Do I buy the nice glycerin, translucent bar for a premium price, opt for a cheap pack or 4 bars and throw 2 away to reduce weight, or go for the local aromatic soap, so that, even though I can’t speak fluently, I could at least smell spanish. I settled on the Dove Beauty Cream Bar because the total weight was 200g for 2 bars. It also has 25% moisturising cream but I promise, weight was the dealbreaker. It is nice though. I added some foot moisturiser to the bill and almost floated out the door. What a day!

And the foot cream was definitely all about the moisturiser. I have a stone to grate all the barnacles from my feet, and then I moisturise. I sense my Camino has turned the corner, pain wise, but I’ve been wrong before.

Back out on the street, I veered left; I have turned the corner!

I was looking for a typical Burgos place to eat lunch, and settled into a cosy, artisan bakery nestled between a Christian souvenir shop and a money exchange joint. Very authentic.

June, a French Canadian I had not seen for 3 days strolled up and told me John from Colorado was in town. I want to catch up with him. June told me of her walk and we discussed difficulties, happy moments, and obviously the one bond that ties all pilgrims together, blisters.

The Burgos Cathedral is hard to describe briefly so I’ll let the pictures do the talking. It is a gothic, Romanesque building with many variations added through the centuries. The ancient pastel frescos adorning the walls, the fragile detailed use of many mediums to create this work of art, and the priceless sculptures and paintings collected from around the world, and housed inside, justify the trip to Burgos alone.

I’ve been to Burgos three times now and it’s beautiful plazas, the cool, quiet riverside promenades, with plenty of advantage points to sit and watch life go by, and it’s historical significance to Spain, will always make it a special town for me. The friendly, helpful people who cater to your stay are the icing on the cake.

When in Spain, visit Burgos. They sell really good foot cream.

Tomorrow is a 21km doddle to Hornillos Del Camino. I’ve reserved a bottom bunk, and I can’t wait for the evening communal meal of paella at the albergue.

I wish you were all here, but the bottom bunk is still mine.

Bye

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Photos

Evening Entertainment
The dancers and musicians from last night. Video didn’t send. This was just as the first few turned the corner.

Breakfast.
Nothing great , I hear you say, but walk a mile in my shoes. It was appreciated.

Suburbia
Downtown Burgos, on the prowl for essentials.

Essentials
Soap, creme and adapter. I’m sorted.

New Adapter
Two parts taped together. I’m not falling for that trick again.

Burgos Cathedral
I won’t describe every picture but the place is amazing, whether you are religious or not.

Old Man River.......
This reminded me of an old Paul Robeson album my dad had......with wings.

Nice Marquetry And Carving
But what’s it all about?

Burgos Cathedral
Ponder about how many people must have died in the construction of this. No safety requirements in those days.

El Cid’s Tomb
He is still a popular folk hero and a national icon, but he had his feet in both camps, Christian and Muslim, when it was necessary or convenient to do so. Let’s just say he was a remarkable, charismatic charactor.

Arco Santa Maria
From the inside.

Alabaster Tomb Sculptors
I think my last will and testament states this to be how I’d like to be laid out. Alabaster, boys. Not any time soon though.

St James , the Moor Slayer.
It’s thought he never really fought but was the symbol of the campaign. Hence the name. Religious wars; have we learnt anything? Tolerance and peace, I say. As a great philosopher once said, “ Just give peace a chance.”

Burgos Cathedral
As viewed from my coffee.

No Judgement Here But...
....this is why I prebook an albergue from now on. To arrive after a long, tiring day to be told the pile of cases were here before you, and have a booking, can be demoralising.

A Burgos Icon
The chestnut lady. I’ll visit her booth, next to the statue, tonight.

Arco Santa Maria
With the chestnut lady’s booth in the foreground.

Late Lunch, By The River
Coffee, cake, and tuna roll, €3, a bargain.