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Europe » Russia » Centre » Yaroslavl December 1st 2005

The official first day of winter, and the last day in Yaroslavl for the 13 week students. Fittingly we woke up to an inch of snow, which always makes the town even more attractive. Today's temperature game was a tie. I guessed minus 3 and Chiara minus 1. It was a bit of a mumbled conversation on the way to the language school, we had only slept for four hours each! Today's topic in Viktor's class was feminism. He didn't seem to understand what he was teaching and just spoke about Russian families. And he didn't appreciate the ideas we had because of the differences in gender roles between Britain and Russia; women don't pay for things for example, men don't cook. Viktor is a good teacher but, with hindsight, the material he has been given ... read more

Europe » Russia » Centre » Yaroslavl November 30th 2005

Minus 3 this morning. My guess of minus 2 was closer than Chiara's so I'm 2-1 up with two games to play. Moving neighbourhoods hasn't done me many favours, but it's good to have someone to walk to Yartek with. Now I'm almost awake by the time we get to school! School was uneventful. Lena taught us grammar in the morning (which is getting harder every lesson) then we talked about cats with Olga. The girls and Jamie have come back from Moscow to pack and to say goodbye to their hozyaikas, so in the evening we went to the Traktir restaurant on ulitsa Svobody for a last Yaroslavl meal together. All the Yartek students plus Katya, Laura and Louise, Tom the lawyer and Michael from Oxford sat around a table for 20 and ate a ... read more

Europe » Russia » Centre » Yaroslavl November 29th 2005

Chiara squared the series this morning by guessing closest to plus 6 degrees. It seems that the real Russian winter won't come until after Christmas, which is a shame because I would rather walk through snow on the main streets than slippery mud. Viktor's class was 'only ok'. I read three texts last night preparing for a discussion on one of them (well, it is a conversation class) but for two hours all we did was grammar. That is what Lena's course is for and I learn most by talking. His classes should be helping me to get rid of the paranoia about my accent, which in fairness I think is good. In Olga's lessons we translated sentences using the passive voice. It is her birthday so her celebration with the other teachers in the staff ... read more

Europe » Russia » Centre » Yaroslavl November 28th 2005

I have a new game with Chiara. We meet at 9.35 every morning outside her hozyaika's flat on ulitsa Pobedy to walk to Yartek together, and we each guess the temperature before we get to the thermometer. Closest number wins of course, best of five until friday. I won the inaugural match, guessing zero and being just a degree too high. Then we went to the MTS office before classes to unblock my phone. There was a huge map of Russia above the desks showing the main towns and network coverage, so I improved my geography while I waited. Maybe one day I will go to Khabarovsk on the Chinese border, or Yakutsk in the middle of Siberia! Yartek is experiencing perestroika. Today was the first day of lessons without the seven who are leaving soon. ... read more

Europe » Russia » Urals » Chelyabinsk November 28th 2005

Ich will euch also mal wieder auf dem laufenden halten. Die Woche ist vorueber und ich kann wieder neues berichten. Fangen wir mal mit dem Freitag an. Wie ihr sicherlich noch wisst, ich wollte nach Omsk. Liegt in Sibirien. Die Zugstrecke geht durch Kasachstan und 13 Stunden. Die Alternative geht 20 Stunden. Ich habe mich dann letztenendes dagegen entschieden, denn es ist nicht sehr hilfreich wenn ich an einem Wochenende 40 Stunden im Zug sitze und dazu noch allein. Aber ich hatte den Freitag frei bekommen. Nun, den habe ich aber dennoch dann genommen und dachte mir, da fahr ich halt nocheinmal nach Ekaterinburg. Ist ebenfalls nichts geworden. Lag aber nicht an mir. Somit war ich schon ein wenig stinkig, Freitag frei und so viele Plaene und am Ende wieder zuhaus sitzen? Mhm, klingt schon komisch ... read more

Europe » Russia » Centre » Yaroslavl November 27th 2005

Today was especially lonely. The girls have gone to Moscow for a holiday until wednesday, my computer is still at Yartek after the party and I blocked my sim-card by mistake so sending 'sms-ki' was out of the question too. I went for a long walk in what was left of the snow. Sunday should be a time to relax but it didn't prove to be very good for my self-esteem. I wanted to buy ingredients to make my own dinner, which was to be a sausage roll of sorts. In the street outside the shop where I bought the bread and sausage two men stopped me and asked me "Where's Lenin?". Assuming they meant Prospekt Lenina and not Vladimir Ilych I directed them to the end of ulitsa Nekrasova and then left at the House ... read more

Europe » Russia » Centre » Yaroslavl November 26th 2005

When the nightwatchman at Yartek told us we had to leave we went to Joy Party. I can remember every song that was played but not much else! It was snowing as I walked home at 5 in the morning. Marina Ivanovna woke me up for breakfast at 10 as usual but she let me go back to bed afterwards. I awoke from my lie-in at 5 in the evening. I went out with Katya at 8.30. There were no good films at the cinema so we went to the Dublin Pub underneath the hotel instead. I think she was impressed at her first taste of British culture, especially because of the live band. There was a violinist and an acoustic guitarist who played Irish folk songs, and a singer. She had a beautiful voice and ... read more

Europe » Russia » Centre » Yaroslavl November 25th 2005

Natasha was in a very good mood today. I don't mind being made fun of when it is done so intelligently! We watched a different news broadcast then discussed the stories which we had understood. In Viktor's lesson we looked at the average wages in Moscow, Ankara, New York, Riga and Paris compared with the cost of living. His example was how many bottles of wine you could buy every month. It was the last day at the language school for those on the 13 week course. There were no classes in the afternoon and the students got together with the teachers around the main table for a buffet of tea and chocolates. Olga and Viktor made speeches then presented Emma, Jamie, Bhav, Dawn, Sara, Precious and Sarah with their grades and certificates. I bought my ... read more

Europe » Russia » Northwest » Saint Petersburg November 24th 2005

My overnight train to St. Petersburg was quite pleasant. Minus the old creepy woman wearing a wig who insisted on sitting in the chair across from my bed the entire first half of the journey staring at me. I've been getting used to all the walking involved in travel. My pack seems to be getting heavier and heavier and the hikes between the stations to the hostels longer and longer. St. Petersburg was no exception. By the time I found the building the hostel was in and walked up 4 flights of stairs I was sweaty and exhausted. Once again, the situation repeated itself...not another traveler in sight. I spent the first 3 days with a large, warm room all to myself. And I think I spent more time walking to and from places than I ... read more
I love St. P architecture!!
At the Hermitage
Peter Paul Fortress from the Hermitage

Europe » Russia » Centre » Yaroslavl November 24th 2005

Minus 5 degrees on the way to school this morning. It didn't feel uncomfortable; it is the dry cold that is refreshing if you are properly wrapped up. I will buy a winter coat if I can find a knee-length black woollen one, just like Jamie's. There was one in a suit shop on ulitsa Svobody but it's too big. Viktor's class filled my head with useless figures about the Russian tax system. We also talked about the average Russian again, and where the nation stands in the "worldwide league table" of about 200 countries. It is in 97th place in terms of annual income but has the 7th highest number of nobel prize winners. Russia is 'only' the 28th most corrupt country in the world. Apparently there is a way of calculating a happiness grade ... read more




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