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Published: September 6th 2016
August 27 Saturday. Azambuja to Santarem
Karen here----this is one of
those 'poor me' days that just seems to bring out the worst in one!!! Unless you want to read about surly train comductors and hotel receptionists that can bring one to tears, skip on down to Harlan's section!!? Yes, I am having a different Camino experience!
We are off to the train station to buy me a ticket. The station is open but there is not a ticket agent. Harlan keeps trying to purchase a ticket via a machine that will not cooperate. We eventually think this machine is for travel going south only. We are still stymied when we use a machine on the train overpass. However, Harlan buys a ticket for 6 Euros. we validate the ticket on a machine and I get on the train in a few minutes. I have double checked train destination with a young man also standing on the platform.
The train arrives and is almost totally empty. Both the young man and I run to catch the last car. There is only one other person in the car. About half the trip has gone by when a conductor appears.
He takes care of the young man's ticket, then looks at mine and shakes his head 'no.' It is not valid. I point to the receipt and he keeps shaking his head. So, the young man swings into a position of being an interpreter. First the conductor says the ticket has not been validated--it has. Then he says I am on the wrong type of train (ah--remember the locals, the suburb and the regionals? Now I have no idea of what kind of train I am on!) The conductor just keeps shaking his head. Now he has my ticket and keeps checking it with his little machine, also with a box near the train door. It is too bad there are only three of us to observe his performance. I tell the young man I really do not want to argue with the conductor and will gladly pay for another ticket. Without the young man I am sure the conductor would have put me off the train at the next station--a very disagreeable man. He finally, with a flourish, indicates I must pay 2.65E--which I gladly do. Wow, what a different outcome I would have had without my pilgrim angel
in the guise of a young man. I have come to the conclusion that the best persons of whom to ask questions are the young as they probably know some English. Young men, married, (I look for the wedding band) are good bets as they probably have some responsibility and tend to be helpful.
At this point I definitely want a taxi to the hotel and I am glad I make this decision as it is a twisty, uphill route to the 'new city' area of Santarem.
I arrive and am glad I am able to get into the room. After getting situated I begin thinking that we will not be able to take advantage of breakfast tomorrow as it is too late. Why can I not have, breakfast today - one of the three breakfasts we will not be able to enjoy tomorrow. I know, rather simplistic thinking on my part! So, I go down to reception and ask the clerk if that would be possible. He says they cannot change the breakfast hour for us. I reply that is not what I am asking. He then says the meal is attached to the lodging and, actually,
I was allowed into the room much earlier then normal but today's breakfast goes with last night's lodging. We chat a few more unproductive minutes and then I get up to leave and he says, "You may have breakfast now." I turn to go and realize tears are slipping down my face---I am so tired, the wheeze is still with me, the cough goes on and the bites are now itching, itching. Composing myself, I proceed to have a nice breakfast, go upstairs and sleep four hours!
Meanwhile, Jo and Harlan are trodding through the heat, over twenty miles. They arrive around eleven hours since beginning their day's walk. They have seen miles of luscious farmland. This is the breadbasket of Portugal and its lovely alluvial soil, from the Tejo River, produces a large part of Portugal's food. The area is especially known for its tomatoes and they watch tomatoes and peppers
being harvested.
Ayaka has caught up with them and now they are a trio heading north.
After Harlan arrives and cleans up we head for a super mercado or store that has everything associated with it. There is a huge grocery, a paper store, sporting
goods store, flower shop, etc. Inside the grocery we see a mini-mini food court. The complex is called Continente.
We eat at the Pizza Hut. The young manager is quite helpful, answering all kinds of questions we have stored up. The cashier in the grocery tells Harlan where to go, Customer Service, to get change. Harlan feels as if he has hit the jackpot when he walks away from the counter with small bills and change.
When we get back to the room we call an SOS number Harlan had been given. A gentlemen, in a truck, had called out to Jo and Harlan on the trail and wanted to know if they had enough water. He said he liked to help pilgrims. He leaves, but returns two hours later and they are now more than ready for the water he presses upon them. It turns out he has an albergue that is quite active in pilgrim activities and help. On the phone we ask them if the train station will be open on a Sunday morning. After some discussion the young lady assures us that the station will be open and that we will be able to
purchase a ticket to the middle of nowhere - Mato de Miranda .
Harlan will now relate his day of walking the Camino with Jo. On the way to the train station with Karen we spot a stork atop a chimney on its nest.
After leaving the train station we walk along various farm roads past fields of tomatoes and peppers. We had hoped to stop at a Café near an aerodrome and have our rolls for breakfast. But when we get there no one is flying so the café is not open. We have to continue on about another six kilometers before finding a cafe in Reguengo. We have coffee and rolls and continue on.
Our track continues past grapes, blackberries, peppers and tomatoes so we sample a few. We have not walked far before we see Ayaka behind us. She hopes to spend the night at the church in Valada. We help her get directions and continue on.
We have a 12.2 kilometer stretch with open farm land. As we pass a quinta (farm house) we meet Miguel who offers us water and his accommodations in Santarem, as well as an SOS phone number
for pilgrims. We assure him we have water enough and take his card.
We are hot and tired as we look for where we cross under the highway viaduct before our climb into Santarem. The viaduct seems to keep moving away as we approach. As we start the climb we stop at a restaurant for a cold drink and rest.
We pass two young men with horse and cart filling containers of water. This is a long climb to the center of town. Our hotel is still more than 2 kilometers down the hill on the opposite side of town. When we arrive we learn we are on our own for dinner. Karen tells us about Continente super mercado, which we walk to after a shower and brief rest.
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Sarah Kidd
non-member comment
August 27, Saturday entry
Your day sounds difficult. Today here is September 7 and I hope things there are flowing better! I received Karen's kind postcard from Fatima. Thanks so much!