This morning we've arranged to meet Louis to visit the Three Cities, which is the collective name for the fortified citadels of Birgu, Senglea and Cospicua on the opposite side of the Grand Harbour from Valletta. We catch the bus to Valletta and walk through to the Upper Barrakka Gardens. As we walk Issy tries to teach me a series of unpronouncable noises which she tells me are Maltese for "good morning, how are you". She gets me to repeat them several times, and then tells me that I have to use them to greet Louis. I hope that she's not trying to trick me, and that the words don't actually mean something else. I remember a movie where this happened, and the words actually meant "I have three testicles". I greet Louis as instructed, and
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