The bus drives up dangerously close to the bumper of the car in front. Our grumpy bald-headed driver blows the horn repeatedly, mouthing unintelligible insults, pressing his lips together in anger. The radio plays Elvis Presley's 'Jailhouse Rock', and he turns up the volume to a deafening volume, adjusts his sunglasses, and proceeds with harassing the poor driver in front of us. We're sitting right behind the driver, who serves as our principal source of entertainment this morning. The ride from Valletta to Ċirkewwa, the harbour where the ferry to Gozo departs, takes around two hours, which makes it one of the longest possible drives in Malta. When we arrive there, the ferry's already waiting. We just walk on with the cars, as there's no separate ramp for passengers. The ticket is payable on return. The
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