Florence Day 2


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Europe » Italy » Tuscany » Florence
September 30th 2012
Published: July 13th 2022
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Accademia di Belle ArtiAccademia di Belle ArtiAccademia di Belle Arti

Accademia di Belle Arti founded in 1563 and location of the Galleria dell'Accademia. View along Via Ricasoli. DSC_0146p1
Florence sightseeing began with an early morning visit to the Galleria dell'Accademia. There is usually a long queue to enter, so this was a wise first stop. Souvenier shops line Via Ricasoli, the street next to the Galleria. Naturally, they sell Michelangelo related items, especially ones relating to David. Like the full apron or the T-shirt so you can have your head on David's body.

The Galleria dell'Accademia in Florence is indeed home to Michelangelo's sculpture of David. It is a must-see museum for visitors to Florence. David was on display in the Piazza della Signoria from 1504 until he was moved indoors into his own rotunda in 1873. I've seen reproductions of David from Forest Lawn in Glendale, California, to the ones in Florence. But there is nothing like actually viewing the real thing. The figure appears to be caught in a moment of time, David taking the measure of Goliath while exhibiting vulnerability at the same time, as our excellent local guide pointed out. Even though the statue was to have been set high up in the Duomo, Michelangelo did not comprise on detail. Perfection carved from a single block of imperfect marble.

David is certainly the
Galleria dell’AccademiaGalleria dell’AccademiaGalleria dell’Accademia

Galleria dell’Accademia. Michelangelo's David and a series of his unfinished works are displayed here. Via Ricasoli 58-60. IMG_0281
centerpiece of the collection. But leading to it are four of Michelangelo's unfinished sculptures, known as the Captives. They are dramatic as they are. Don't overlook them. The figures appear to be struggling to emerge from the marble, and Michelangelo said his work was to reveal what was already in a block. The were not finished because Pope Julius II, who commissioned then for St. Peter's, put the project on hold. Unfinished works, known as non-finito, are not uncommon among Michelangelo's undertakings. It might be he did not have time to finish them, or it might be they did not live up to his expectations. An unfinished Pieta displayed with others may not be by Michelangelo but the work of a contemporary. Nevertheless, it is very powerful and appears very modern, like an abstract sculpture.

The historic center of Florence was very crowded this day because of the "Corre la Vida", a 13 km run in support of breast cancer research. The race started at Piazza del Duomo at 9:30 with the finish line at Piazza della Signoria. Participants, spectators, and media all added to the daily throng.

We made our way from the Galleria along Via Ricasoli
Florence CathedralFlorence CathedralFlorence Cathedral

Florence Cathedral (Duomo or La Cattedrale di Santa Maria del Fiore). The dome was constructed in 1410-1413. Historic Centre of Florence UNESCO World Heritage site. DSC_0149p1
to the Piazza del Duomo. Here are the spectacular Cathedral (Duomo), Battisterio and Campanile. They are tightly enclosed by buildings, so one cannot enjoy them at a distance as at Pisa. Instead, one must view the Cathedral's dome from side streets. The Cathedral's façade and Campanile face the Piazza, but are difficult to take in in one vista. We examined the façade of the Cathedral but did not go in. The Cathedral was consecrated in 1436 with the completion of Brunelleschi's dome. But the façade is much newer. It had been left unfinished and was completed in 1875-1887. The free-standing Campanile, 276 ft. (85 m) tall, is shorter than the dome. It was designed by Giotto and completed in 1387. The Battistero is across from the Cathedral's façade. Consecrated in 1059, it predates the Cathedral and was in fact Florence's cathedral until 1128. It was remodeled into its present form in he 13th Century. The Porte del Paradiso (Gates of Paradise) bronze doors by Ghiberti are its most famous feature. The ten panels of the doors depict scenes from the Old Testament. They were installed in 1452, but were removed for restoration as display indoors in 1990. The doors one
Florence Cathdedral (Duomo)Florence Cathdedral (Duomo)Florence Cathdedral (Duomo)

Florence Cathdedral (Duomo or Santa Maria del Fiore). Marble Neo-Gothic façade designed by Emilio De Fabris (1808–1883) in 1871 and built between 1876 and 1887. Historic Centre of Florence UNESCO World Heritage sire. "The present façade was erected in 1875-87 from the design of Emilio De Fabris, which originally contemplated three gables. The bronze central door is by Ant. Passaglia (1903), the side-doors by Gius.. Cassioli (1899)".--Baedeker 1906DSC_0165p1
sees today are reproductions.

The group now made its way to the Piazza della Signorina by way of the narrow Via Santa Elisabetta and the small but interesting Piazza Santa Elisabetta. The Piazza della Signorina must be regarded as the center of the historic center of Florence. Coming out on the open space, one is greeted by a dazzling collection of sights on all sides. The Loggia dei Lanzi, the Palazzo Vecchio, the Neptune Fountain and the Uffizi among them. The piazza was quite crowded with spectators, sponsors, balloons and portable toilets, as it was the finish line for the aforementioned run. I saw some of the participants coming in.

Part of the Historic Centre of Florence UNESCO World Heritage site. In the Santa Croce. The Basilica di Santa Croce was a church I very much wanted to visit.

The facade dominates the Piazza di Santa Croce and catches ones attention upon entering the square. The Gothic church was built from 1294 to 1442 for the Franciscans. But the striking marble facade is neo-Gothic and a later addition, dating from 1857-1863. Interestingly, the facade, designed by by Nicolò Matas, was commissioned by an English admirer of the
Florence Cathedral Main EntranceFlorence Cathedral Main EntranceFlorence Cathedral Main Entrance

Florence Cathedral (Duomo or Santa Maria del Fiore). Main entrance to the cathedral. Above the bronze doors is the lunette Christ Enthroned with Mary and John the Baptist, by Nicolò Barabino (1831–1891). Historic Centre of Florence. UNESCO World Heritage. Inscribed in 1982. DSC_0167p1
church and Florence, (Matas was Jewish and included a prominent Star of David at the apex.)

Santa Croce was a popular church in Florence and notable Florentines were buried or commemorated there. After Italian unification, Santa Croce became a kind of Pantheon for many Italians of accomplishment.

As we were visiting on a Sunday morning, mass was still in progress at Santa Croce. However, the officials were kindly letting visitors in anyway. So, we kept to the back of the church. But, here were the tombs of Galileo and Michelangelo and a cenotaph to Dante. The marble pulpit with scenes from the life of St Francis, carved by Benedetto da Maiano (c. 1475), could be enjoyed, too. I would have liked to have stopped at the tomb of composer Giacomo Rossini, but it was further forward where the service was in progress.

The Uffizi Gallery - Galleria degli Uffizi. One of the most acclaimed art museums in the world and a showcase in particular for Italian and Renaissance art. Every art history book has illustrations of the masterworks on display here. To actually see them is person is a surreal experience. This was next in our Florence
Florence Cathdedral (Duomo) and CampanileFlorence Cathdedral (Duomo) and CampanileFlorence Cathdedral (Duomo) and Campanile

Florence Cathdedral (Duomo or Santa Maria del Fiore) façade and Campanile. At 276 ft. (85 m), it is a bit shorter than the Dome. "The Campanile, or bell-tower, begun by Giotto in 1334-36, carried on after his death by Andrea Pisano and Franc. Talenti, and completed in 1387, a square structure 276 ft. in height, is regarded as one of the finest existing works of the kind. It consists of four stories, richly decorated with coloured marble. The windows, which increase in size with the different stories, are enriched with beautiful tracery in the Italian Gothic style".--Baedeker 1906. Historic Centre of Florence. UNESCO World Heritage. Inscribed in 1982. DSC_0174p1
agenda. The museum has its origins in the art collecting and commissioning of the Medicis. The gallery itself was built in 1560-1581 as Medici regime administrative offices--uffizi. The gallery forms a large U-shape beginning across from the Palazzo Vecchio and wrapping around back to the Loggia dei Lanzi on the Piazza della Signoria. I liked the newly restored Tribuna, the octagonal central room that was an elegant reception room and original display chamber for the Medici's most treasured works. It was meant to show off the best of the Medici collections to visitors.

It's difficult to know where to begin to describe the Uffizi collections! The works that stood out most for me were Botticelli's Birth of Venus and his Primavera, Michelangelo's Holy Family, and Leonard da Vinci's Annunciation. One could of course spend days here and not take in everything or begin to comprehend it all. The museum is always changing and its never-ending corridors are something of a warren of surprises.A must-see even if one can only spend a brief time here as was our constraint. A gift shop and terrace cafe are available. Photography of the collections is not permitted. One can take photos of the
Dome of Florence CathedralDome of Florence CathedralDome of Florence Cathedral

Florence Cathdedral (Duomo or Santa Maria del Fiore). Historic Centre of Florence. UNESCO World Heritage. Inscribed in 1982. DSC_0182p1
Ponte Vecchio from the windows at the far end of the corridors and of the tower of the Palazzo Vecchio from the terrace.

All the above are part of the Historic Centre of Florence UNESCO World Heritage site.

The hotel is a bit removed from the historic center of Florence. We found it to be about a 12 block walk from Piazza della Repubblica at the edge if the historic center to the hotel. I would take a cab next time!


Additional photos below
Photos: 39, Displayed: 27


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BattisteroBattistero
Battistero

Battisterio (Battistero di San Giovanni ) - The Baptistry. Built in the Florentine Romanesque style between 1059 and 1128. Historic Centre of Florence. UNESCO World Heritage site. "Opposite the Bigallo is the Battistero, or church of San Giovanni Battista, originally (down to 1128) the cathedral of Florence, an admirable octagonal structure with an octagonal cupola, rising in well-proportioned stories, defined by pilasters and embellished with rich variegated marble ornamentation and handsome cornices. The building, which was extolled by Dante ('mio bel San Giovanni', Inf. xix. 17), was probably founded in the 7th or 8th cent., but was remodelled about 1200, when the previous vestibule was replaced by the present choir-apse. The pillars on the exterior angles were added by Arnolfo di Cambio in 1293. All children born in Florence are baptized here. — The three celebrated Bronze Doors were added in the 14th and 15th centuries".--Baedeker 1906. DSC_0153p1
Gates of ParadiseGates of Paradise
Gates of Paradise

Gates of Paradise - Porte del Paradiso. East Doors of the Baptistry by Lorenzo Ghiberti. Copies made in 1990 are displayed today. The ten panels of the doors depict scenes from the Old Testament. The Third Door, facing the cathedral, also executed by Lorenzo Ghiberti (1425-52), is considered a marvel of art. It represents ten different scenes from Scripture history: 1. Creation and Expulsion from Paradise; 2. Cain slaying his brother and Adam tilling the earth; 3. Noah after the Flood, and his intoxication; 4. Abraham and the angels, and Sacrifice of Isaac; 5. Esau and Jacob; 6. Joseph and his brethren; 7. Promulgation of the Law on Mt. Sinai; 8. The Walls of Jericho; 9. Battle against the Ammonites; 10. The Queen of Sheba. The artist has here wittingly transgressed the limits of the plastic art and produced what may be called a picture in bronze, but he has notwithstanding shed such a flood of loveliness over his creation that Michael Angelo pronounced this door worthy of forming the entrance to Paradise. The beautiful bronze borders are also by Ghiberti, who has introduced his own portrait in the central band (the man with the bald head, to the left, fourth from the top)".--Baedeker 1906. Historic Centre of Florence. UNESCO World Heritage. Inscribed in 1982. DSC_0170
Abraham and the Sacrifice of JacobAbraham and the Sacrifice of Jacob
Abraham and the Sacrifice of Jacob

Battistero. Ghiberti's Doors. Reproduction. Abraham and the Sacrifice of Jacob. Panel 4. Historic Centre of Florence. UNESCO World Heritage. Inscribed in 1982. DSC_0171
Adam and Eve Expelled from EdenAdam and Eve Expelled from Eden
Adam and Eve Expelled from Eden

Battistero. Ghiberti's East Door. Reproduction. Adam and Eve Expelled from Eden. Panel 1. Historic Centre of Florence. UNESCO World Heritage. Inscribed in 1982. DSC_0173
Loggia del BigalloLoggia del Bigallo
Loggia del Bigallo

Loggia del Bigallo, or The Bigallo. Gothic loggia built in 1352-1358 for the Capitani di Santa Maria. Abandoned children were displayed here for three days, after which time they were sent to foster homes. Piazza del Duomo. Historic Centre of Florence UNESCO World Heritage site. "To the left, also at the corner of the Via de' Calzaioli, is the Bigallo (restored in 1881-2 and 1904), an exquisite little Gothic loggia, built in 1352-58, for the 'Capitani di Santa Maria', for the exhibition of foundlings to the charitable public, and afterwards made over to the 'Capitani del Bigallo', a similar fraternity. Over the arcades (N.) are a relief of the Madonna by Alberto di Arnoldo (1361) and two almost obliterated frescoes representing the foundation of the brotherhood (1445)".--Baedeker 1906. DSC_0178
Torre della PagliazzaTorre della Pagliazza
Torre della Pagliazza

Torre della Pagliazza (541-544 AD). One of the oldest extant buildings in Florence and once a part of the defensive walls. Adaptive reuse as part of the Hotel Brunelleschi. Piazza Sant'Elisabetta, 3. DSC_0191
Piazza della SignoriaPiazza della Signoria
Piazza della Signoria

Piazza della Signoria. In the centre, flanked by the Neptune Fountain and Equestrian statue of Cosimo I, is the Palazzo delle Assicurazioni Generali, built in 1871. The Piazza, della Signoria, with the Palazzo Vecchio and the Loggia dei Lanzi, once the forum of the republic, and the scene of its popular assemblies and tumults, its festivals and executions, is still an important centre of business and pleasure. ... On the W. side of the piazza rises the Palazzo Fenzi, built by Landi (1871) in the early-Florentine style, which has been adopted in many of the newer edifices.--Baedeker 1906. Historic Centre of Florence. UNESCO World Heritage. Inscribed in 1982. Indeed, the Florence Corri La Vita running event.took place in the Piazza while we were there. DSC_0231
Grand Duke Cosimo IGrand Duke Cosimo I
Grand Duke Cosimo I

Equestrian statue of Grand Duke Cosimo I (1519-1574). Piazza della Signoria. ";A little to the left is the 'Equestrian Statue of Grand-Duke Cosimo I., In bronze, by Giovanni da Bologna (1594)".--Baedeker 1906 Historic Centre of Florence. UNESCO World Heritage. Inscribed in 1982. DSC_0227
Fontana del NettunoFontana del Nettuno
Fontana del Nettuno

Fontana del Nettuno - Neptune Fountain by Bartolomeo Ammannati (1563–1565). Completed in 1575. Piazza della Signoria. "To the left is the Great Fountain, with Neptune ('il Biancone') and Tritons by Bartolomeo Ammanati and four sea-goddesses of the School of Oiov. da Bologna, finished in 1575".--Baedeker 1906. Historic Centre of Florence. UNESCO World Heritage. Inscribed in 1982. DSC_0199p1
Fontana del NettunoFontana del Nettuno
Fontana del Nettuno

Fontana del Nettuno - Neptune Fountain. by Bartolomeo Ammannati (1563–1565). Completed in 1575. Detail. Piazza della Signoria. Historic Centre of Florence. UNESCO World Heritage. Inscribed in 1982. DSC_0229
Palazzo VecchioPalazzo Vecchio
Palazzo Vecchio

Palazzo Vecchio. Built in 1322 and in use as the city hall as well as a museum. Piazza della Signoria. Historic Centre of Florence. UNESCO World Heritage. Inscribed in 1982. "The Palazzo Vecchio, a castle-like building with huge projecting battlements, was mainly built in 1298-1314 from Arnolfo di Cambio's designs and extended to the Via dei Leoni by Vasari, Buontalenti, and others in 1548-93. ... Down to 1532 it was, under the name of Palazzo dei Priori, the seat of the Signoria, the government of the republic; subsequently (1540-60) it was the residence of Cosimo I, and it is now used as a town-hall".--Baedeker 1906. DSC_0285p1
Hercules and CacusHercules and Cacus
Hercules and Cacus

Hercules and Cacus. Marble sculpture by Baccio Bandinelli (1534) in Piazza della Signoria. "On the right is a group of Hercules and Cacus by Michael Angelo's rival Baccio Bandinelli, who hoped to excel the great master in this work".--Baedeker 1906 Historic Centre of Florence. UNESCO World Heritage. Inscribed in 1982. DSC_0212
Loggia dei LanziLoggia dei Lanzi
Loggia dei Lanzi

Loggia dei Lanzi. Built in 1376-1382 in the Tuscan Gothic style. The loggia houses Roman and Renaissance sculptures. Piazza della Signoria. Historic Centre of Florence UNESCO World Heritage site. "In the S. angle of the piazza, in front of the Palazzo degli Uffizi (p. 483), rises the —"Loggia dei Lanzi, originally called Loggia dei Signori, a magnificent open vaulted hall of the kind with which it was usual to provide both the public and private palaces of Tuscany, designed in the present case for solemn ceremonies which it might be desirable to perform before the people. This structure was projected in 1356, having perhaps been designed by Orcagna, but was not erected till 1376-82. Benci di Cione and Simone di Francesco Talenti are said to have been the architects. Both the style of the architecture and the sculptures (Faith, Hope, Charity, Temperance, and Fortitude), by Giov. d'Ambrogio and Jacopo di Piero (1383-87), exhibit an incipient leaning to Renaissance forms. The present name of the loggia dates from the time of the Grand-Duke Cosimo I, when his German spearmen or 'lancers' were posted here as guards".--Baedeker 1906. DSC_0221p1
Ratto delle SabineRatto delle Sabine
Ratto delle Sabine

Ratto delle Sabine (The Rape of the Sabine Women), marble sculpture by Giambologna (1583). Loggia dei Lanzi. "Under the arches, to the right, is the Rape of the Sabines, a bold and skillful group in marble executed by Giovanni da Bologna in 1583, with a lifelike relief on the base..."--Baedeker 1906. Historic Centre of Florence. UNESCO World Heritage. Inscribed in 1982. DSC_0209p1


13th July 2022
Dome of Florence Cathedral

An iconic building
This one is a beauty and we have a photo of it hanging in our home.

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