Blogs from The Burren, County Clare, Ireland, Europe

After my tour-filled day I took a long shower and got ready to enjoy my last night in Dingle. I sat in the Hideout common room for a while to relax and met three Australian girls (who had been on my Fungie boat tour earlier) and a man from Israel. We watched the closing ceremonies of the special Olympics on TV. After a while I got up from the comfy sagging couches, told them where I'd be if they wanted to join later, and headed back out to find food before going to the Courthouse pub. I was determined to figure out what was so great about the place, and on a Sunday night I figured it wouldn't be as crazy packed as it was before. First I went back to the Dingle Hotel bar to ... read more

Ballyvaughn (Baile Ui Bheachain) is a small harbor village located on the south shores of Galway Bay, in the northwest corner of the Burren. The village is surrounded by megalithic tombs such as Poulnabrone dolmen, celtic ring forts such as Caherconnell Stone Fort, medieval churches and castles. The road out of Ballyvaughn led to Corofin, and we had a very pleasant FLAT ride for about 3km. Then the climb into the Burren began. This climb was about 4.5 miles, but either I was getting stronger (finally) or else the excitement to finally see the Poulnabrone dolmen propelled me forward. Halfway up the climb, we stopped to rest and soak up the scenery of the valley behind us. I noticed a break in the rock wall that lined the road and decided to explore. Beyond the break, ... read more

Wednesday, October 6: We sat in the Balinsheen solarium this morning, watching it rain outside the back window but not rain outside the front window. The weather really keeps you on your toes. After a great Irish breakfast we left horses playing in the field next to our B&B and headed south to Kilfenora, a small village sitting at the gateway to The Burren. After a quick stop at the visitor's center, we made a false start out of town, started over and encountered a 15th century castle ruin and later a stone fort ruin, Caherconnell, a stone ring fort that was common for farm families in medieval times. On to Poulnabrone Dolman, a portal tomb--a druid's altar and grave chamber from 4000 years ago. We were fortunate enough to just miss a tour bus group ... read more

A good writer writes against cliché, so coming to this island at its least emerald-ish should work to my advantage. No green then, but with every other colour of the palate available, I set out to discover Ireland. We arrive on The Burren in a total white-out, the landscape as blank and featureless as some inhospitable planet. From window one, the Aran Islands exist. From window two, the cliffs of Moher wait to be discovered. From window three, we face Connemara. But for tonight, the view is strictly interior: a peat fire glowing, dinner set out in front of the telly, Ron and I cocooned in oatmeal-coloured blankets. We enter our third day of the storm. The snow blows sideways over the burren, obliterating our view of the strange steep slopes. Against the windows, the wind ... read more

First I'd like brag: I got a comment from someone I don't know! So, like, people other than my family and friends must be reading this, and stuff. So cool! Hey, if you're reading this and you've never actually met me and you'd like to make my day, leave a comment :) :). Anyway, down to business. Here is another email I sent to my fam and friends. Enjoy! ______________ Hello! Things are still going really well out here in Ireland. The weather has been a lot better (we’re getting some sun!) and it’s nice to be settled in a place where I feel comfortable getting a snack out of the fridge or starting a load of laundry. The work is pretty much the same as before; I’m still doing a lot of painting, and now ... read more