Blogs from Ariege, Midi-Pyrénées, France, Europe - page 2

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Europe » France » Midi-Pyrénées » Ariege October 30th 2009

Les Bordes, October 30th, 2009 When I first arrived, I woke to the soft sounds of the curlews chattering in the trees opposite. The next sounds are the voices of our near neighbours. Madame has stentorian tones that echo around the neighbourhood. She waters her pot plants at midnight and cossets two large caged birds that hold great fascination for the many local cats, who admire them with longing glances. When I opened the shutters this morning, I was greeted by the charming sight of a small girl skipping down the road talking to a large black dog, a tiny grey one and a white cat. The quartet trotted happily into the distance in single file. Most of our numerous visitors have had to endure the indigestion that follows a six-course lunch at the local Auberge. ... read more
Les Bordes
Nimes
Peyrepertuse

Europe » France » Midi-Pyrénées » Ariege October 16th 2009

Over the course of just 4 days, our glorious Indian Summer has been replaced by the onset of winter. The afternoon temperature in our courtyard has dropped by an astonishing 30 degrees Celsius. Last week’s strappy tops and shorts have been banished in favour of fleeces, trousers and especially socks. The haricot beans, peppers and tomatoes of late summer are losing place on the market stalls to celeriac, knobbly carrots, cabbages and chestnuts. Summer lettuce is giving way to rocket, black radish and the tiny soft leaves of lamb’s lettuce. The pleasure of the fierce afternoon sun has been replaced by the glowing comfort of the wood burning stove in the evening. The weather remains glorious however, and the autumn colours are out in force. It’s wonderful weather for walking, and appreciating this refreshing change in ... read more
We were reminded of the Lake District
All the lakes in the area are fed by networks of streams
...and little waterfalls

Europe » France » Midi-Pyrénées » Ariege October 11th 2009

Les Bordes, 11 September 2009 In the land of Bardot, Deneuve and Tatou and indeed the delicious Madame Sarkozy, it comes as quite a relief to find that here in the countryside; the women are not perfect examples of French chic, in fact quite the contrary. Our neighbours are friendly, offering ‘bonjours’ and ‘bonsoirs’ in passing, but we have yet to engage in conversation - probably a good thing considering our fractured French. The locals are friendly too, so much so that one fell like a stone at our feet when we were having lunch yesterday in Mirepoix. It seems that he was neither desperately anxious to make our acquaintance, nor poleaxed by our beauty, but had suffered a blackout. We thought the worst, when he hit the deck, but once restored to his chair, he ... read more
Life in the country

Europe » France » Midi-Pyrénées » Ariege September 24th 2009

We went to see our friends the donkeys today to collect some of their well-rotted manure. But it's hard to concentrate in the job in hand when........... read more
...and then they pick up your buckets...
...or make off with them for a game of football
Now they've BOTH stolen a bucket

Europe » France » Midi-Pyrénées » Ariege September 14th 2009

The Cathars are - were - a Christian sect flourishing particularly from the 11th - 13th centuries, particularly in this part of the world. They were dualistic, believing there was a God of Good, and a God of Evil, and they lived simply, abjuring the temporal power that was such a feature of the Catholic church of the time. The Catholics hated this heretical sect and called for a crusade against them. All this happened 800 years ago, and the bloody events of the Albigensian crusade are being commemorated this year in the Pyrénées Cathares. We’ve been on walks, talks, all sorts of things organised by Pays d'art et d'histoire des Pyrénées Cathares over the last few months, but yesterday was A Big Challenge. We met at Montségur, scene of a long siege that ended with ... read more
Fabrice sets the scene for us all...
The first Autumn crocus of the season...
A wonderfully perfect  Amanite

Europe » France » Midi-Pyrénées » Ariege September 10th 2009

Laroque and its Primary School, Elisée Maury, have hit the headlines. And not just here. Just look at today’s Guardian. Not a week into the new term, and a newly appointed teacher has been ordered to quit her post here. Not sacked, but transferred to a school nearly 2 hours drive away. Why? 50 children were expected to return to school at the beginning of term. In the event, 47 turned up. The parents of the others had apparently found jobs elsewhere and moved away during the summer. Without those three extra children, the school’s not entitled to three teachers. Teachers here are civil servants, appointed centrally. Neither the local council nor the school itself has any influence on appointments, or on how the school uses its teaching budget. But Caroline Sanchez, the teacher in question, ... read more
As are banners like  this
A gendarme supervises a break away group of protestors
I missed the moment of the great show of hands.  The fight goes on

Europe » France » Midi-Pyrénées » Ariege September 7th 2009

Blackberrying. One of my favourite late summer activities in England. I relish the cut and thrust of getting to those favourite spots before all the other old biddies (young biddies don’t do it, apparently), the smell of damp earth and decaying vegetation and the gently warming heat that always seems to greet the start of the Autumn term. Up until now, I haven’t done it in France in a sustained way. But today, I went off with two French friends and a new acquaintance, each of us armed with buckets and sticks. We were serious. So was the heat. It was hard going at times, and I continued to be disappointed with our haul. The hot and dry conditions do nothing for the flavour of a self-respecting blackberry, which becomes too sweet, and far too seedy. ... read more
Looking down to the lake at Montbel
Mirabelles....
My favourite clapped out old banger

Europe » France » Midi-Pyrénées » Ariege August 28th 2009

We’ve just had 2 weeks of Guests. One of the main pleasures of Guests (especially if one of them is an old friend not seen in ages, and the other Daughter Number 2), is the opportunity it gives to see the region we’ve chosen as home anew, through fresh eyes. Though funnily enough, Guests also unleash the possibility of unbridled greed. Because of them, we spend longer at markets, discussing whether to buy our usual favourite piquant olives, or those dressed in lemon and basil, or those big ones over there, rich in garlic. (Answer: buy the lot). We hover round cheese stalls, discussing and tasting the merits of cheeses made with cows’ or sheep’s or goats’ milk, or mixtures of different types of milk. We look for the ripest peaches and nectarines, and buy bags ... read more
At the open air thermal baths at Rennes-les-Bains...
The sort of views both Karen and Emily had in the Pyrenees Orientales...
Emily and Mal explore the monster grotto at le Mas d'Azil

Europe » France » Midi-Pyrénées » Ariege July 24th 2009

I was lying about the plum harvest. It's pears now.... read more

Europe » France » Midi-Pyrénées » Ariege July 23rd 2009

We have an apricot tree in the garden. It’s only a little one. It’s certainly not a prize-winning specimen, having mottled skin that can only be described as ‘moche’ (manky). But that doesn’t affect the flavour. This apricot tree has governed our week (well, fortnight actually). Gathering windfalls. Gathering not-windfalls. Washing. Sorting. Cooking. Ah yes, cooking. This is what we now have in our store cupboard, our freezer, our fridge, our tummies, our friends’ tummies. Apricot jam-apricot and ginger jam-apricot curd-apricot frangipane-apricot crumble-apricot ice cream-apricot curd ice cream-apricot sorbet-poached apricots-apricot and hazelnut meringue-apricot purée-apricot liqueur. We don’t much care for chutney, so that’s not on the list. I no longer look forward to scrumping as I collect the fruit. But apricots ARE coming to an end. Now the next crop is near... read more
27 pots of jam
Apricot frangipane




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