From the moment we step out of the airport lobby and into the Guatmalan sun, our senses are overtaken by the city. An offbeat orchestra of car horns, shouting, motorbike revving, and mariachi music echoes through the streets. Swaths of colors sway past us as groups of Mayan women walk along the sidewalks, baskets of fabrics balanced precariously on their heads. Black exhaust puffs out of the back of old trucks in big, angry clouds, and heads straight for our noses. Boxy North American schoolbuses dressed to impress, adorned with bells and tassles and fresh coats of bright orange, red, and pink paint, are no longer toting eager schoolchildren to and from class at a safe and steady pace. Instead these Chicken Buses, as they have been newly baptised, honk and zoom past us, chocked full
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