Blogs from Verapaz Region, Guatemala, Central America Caribbean - page 20

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Coban is a beautiful city. Old colonial houses, a national parc (?!) and a small finca right in the centre of town which is surrounded by lush, rolling green hills and countryside. But something was off about Coban. Somewhere along the line it missed the mark. The place was a business centre for exporters of coffee, cacao and cardamom so noisy trucks seemed to rumble through the town from dawn till midnight. The local were "latino, not Guatemalan" was the way Chris put it. The affluence meant more Americanisation, cell phones clipped to belt loops and pounding dance tunes coming from car stereos and so many hotels. Not my bag. There were very few gringos, usually nice, but a bad sign in a place like this. It was really a getaway spot for Guate City's upper ... read more


Caldo de Calzado I'm finally starting a special section I've been thinking about doing since I began this trip. The section will be devoted to my discovery of this country's cuisine. Since my trip is pretty low budget you can bet that most of the stuff I'm writing about will be too. But food (and drink) are the things I'm likely to splurge on too. My other weakness is for the weird stuff. If I've never seen it, tasted it or even heard of it, you can bet I'll be ordering some if I can afford it. The title comes from a translation error I made one day while reading a sign. Caldo is a traditional kind of soup here. It's made with either chicken or beef (usually chicken) in broth with cilanto, rice and ... read more


We left Quetzaltenango in the morning but not before stocking up on bus food at this tiny Mennonite bakery on the way. Don't remember exactly where it was, but it was only open on Tuesday's and Friday's from 9-6. We got there at ten minutes to nine and got to watch them unloading the trucks. If everything they unloaded tasted as good as the stuff we bought, I should have robbed the whole store. Huge doughnuts the size of a softball overflowing with creams and custards and jellies, whoopie pies, the best cookies I've ever had cakes, pies, yogurt, jams, granola. My mouth is watering just thinking about it. If you're in Xela on the right day, make sure you don't miss this! Just ask one of the backpackers that's been around for a while where ... read more


Spent a couple of nights in a jungle lodge and went to the water both days. Everyone just loved it!... read more
Pools
Cliff divers
Clear water


When the big man pointed at my glasses, our guide Fernando quickly snapped a few inches of twine from a rope hanging nearby, neatly removed my glasses from my head, and tied the two ends of the cord to the arms of my glasses. As he handed the modified glasses back to me, I knew we were in for a better than average adventure. Ten minutes later we arrived at the mouth of the cave. A large pool of still, dank looking water lay in front of a large, locked gate. We stood, momentarily stymied while Fernando searched for the key that would open the gate. All this was reminding me of something, something bad, but I couldn't quite put my finger on it. But then Fernando found the key and the gate swung open. Lighting ... read more


So, we've been hanging out in Lanquin, at this place called El Retiro for the last few days. It is one of these places you encounter every once in a while when travelling: located in a slightly out of the way place, in an idyllic setting where some gringo came years ago, discovered he didn't want to leave, and decided to open a hostal/guest house/retreat. There is usually one particular attraction in the area that has been a tourist draw for ages, and often little else of note. But the hostal/guest house/retreat ends up becoming a destination in itself. See, at this type of place, they provide everything you could possibly need within the grounds of the establishment. There will be a restaurant serving breakfast and lunch, coffee and tea, beers and sodas, licuados and milk ... read more


Having been back in Guatemala for a week and a half now, and having reacquainted myself with the vagaries of long distance public transport, I feel it is now appropriate to present to you my Guide to Guatemalan Bus Travel or Riding the Gallo But first, a word on etymology (or is that bugs?). The standard form of travel in Guatemala has been named, by gringos, the chicken bus. For those of us who grew up in Quebec, riding the chicken bus brings back fond memories of childhood, for the buses here in use are, in fact, the Blue Bird Body Co. school buses ubiquitous in Quebec in the 70s and 80s. I can only assume that each of these venerable vehicles, when it had reached the point where it was no longer deemed adequately safe ... read more


After spending Monday recovering from dragging ourselves up and down the volcano, we set off yesterday morning for the Biotopo de Quetzal. A hair-raising two hours careening around corners on the best paved road in Guatemala had us on the outskirts of Guate city, where we had to disembark for reasons of an urgent biological nature. So noon found us standing by the side of the highway in the scorching sun trying to get one of the endless stream of buses to stop and take us the rest of the way into the center. Eventually, some kind bus driver took pity on us, and a few Quetzals from us, and we found ourselves in the heart of the city. The last time I was here, the group I was walking with took a turn off of ... read more


Semuc Champey some say is the most beautiful area in Guatemala, I think this claim may be true, though it is hard to give the accolade to just one area when there are so many so beautiful. Both guide books (Rough Guide and Lonely Planet) included information on Semuc Champey, including the general advice that it is better to take a tour. Tours all cost $35, way too much for a savvy budget traveller such as I. The Rough Guide goes as far as to mention that some guy called Fernandez in an unnamed green shop near the main plaza will take you for only $10. What kind of advice is that? We wandered around the plaza several times without seeing any unnamed green shops... the general consensus from the tour companies was that it also ... read more
Small Waterfalls
No Swimming
Inside the Chicken Bus


Heading straight for Tikal in one trip seemed a little excessive. We took a bus trip to Coban, a town of some 40,000 people in the southern highlands. The area is reputed to have some of the best scenery in all of Guatemala. After 5hrs coach journey from Antigua I was tired and had a headache from drinking too little water during the day, the bus dropped us off at the bottom of a steep hill. At the top of the steep hill was where we needed to be. After struggling up the hilll in the dust and heat, I sat by the cathederal with the baggage whilst Sharon looked for a hotel. Sharon found Hotel La Paz, she choose it by ensuring that we wouldn't have to walk up or down any steep hills from ... read more
Municipal Buildings
Coban Town




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