Blogs from Petén Region, Guatemala, Central America Caribbean - page 14

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(Day 790 on the road)Guatemala has recently been rated the worst democracy in Central America. Well done! Considering how stiff the competition here is and that other countries are doing their best to snatch the title, this is quite an achievement. To take this trophy home in this part of the world, you really have to excel in various categories: Biased elections, restricted personal and political rights, a weak separation between the three powers of the state, a state-influenced media, a couple of human rights abuses here and there, and generally a weak governance favouring corruption. After having been ripped off for the fare to Flores by the bus driver at the border in La Tecnica, we soon got our first taste of government corruption right at the immigration office in Bethel, when the friendly officer ... read more
Cool jump off the pier at sunset in Flores
Sunset on top of temple IV
Five on a bike, no helmets, no problem


On 7th May 300 Qs got us a lift on a lancha to Bethel where we sorted a dolmus. Oddly it only took 2 hours to drive back along that same unmade road. Ashley saw a grey fox but I think I was asleep at that time. There were certainly hummingbirds at the place we waited for the microbus. We got dropped off at a junction then caught another microbus to Sayaxche where we booked into the Hotel Rio (with real AC!). At this point laundry was becoming a problem. We started washing a couple of bits out in the shower... I liked Sayaxche. Dusty frontier town - no more than a dozen streets in each direction and building out all the time. The ferry from where the microbus dropped us into town was 2Qs each ... read more
River Pasion
Entering Ceibal
Break from mosquitos


Ashley reprimanded me because I forgot to say how, the night before last, the ground failed to rise up to meet his foot and he fell out of a restaurant. This scared me a lot but, fortunately, he did not hurt himself. We didn´t do much yesterday. We watched Central American fishes in their natural environment. There are lots of some kind of livebearer here, reminded us of the Amica. Also, some cichlides which we think are Nicaraguans. Not sure though. They are yellow but darker beneath. Some others also seen but not identified. Guarding fry. Acting very similar to the way the Central American cichlids act in our tanks. Today we went to Yaxcha. It´s a hard place to get to independently - the last 11 Km being down an unmade road where buses do ... read more
Yaxcha
Yaxche
Plaza from temple


Well, there has not been much opportunity to blog from Gautemala. Internet cafes are few and far between, though there are plenty here in Flores. I want to go back and post date entries for what we have done each day as we have been very busy. We went to Copan in Honduras and spent two nights there. We explored the ruins. We drank Margaritas. We exeperienced a tropical storm. After that we went to Quirigua which I never did learn to say. No one there spoke English though the shop next to the hotel sold beer. We explored the ruins. There was an immense storm. From there we travelled to Livingstone where we ate lunch. Then on to a lovely retreat - Hotelito Perdito - down the river and into the jungle. Run by extremely ... read more
Another Flores Sunset


It is very difficult to describe just how wonderful Tikal is. It compares to Cichen Itza and to Palenque though it is as different from either of those as they are from each other. The diversity of Maya civilisation should not be so surprising as it did go on for the best part of a thousand years - and, of course, the culture persists. I don´t think it was ever a static thing and communications between the various centres were, I think, different from the kinds of communications we take for granted. Not better nor worse but different. Anyway, the monuments are monumental. They have dug up the big stuff. The very, very big stuff. It is possible to run from temple to temple, climbing the steep and rickety wooden staircases provided like it was some ... read more
Jaguar temple
Probably temple 5
collared toucan


My trip to Guatemala was with Global Youth Network. Eleven university students backpacking together to two different eco-tourism/volunteer locations. The first was two weeks at "Volunteer Peten", San Andreas near Flores, in the Peten Region. The project is run by Mateo, an American who moved there something like 20 years ago. He started with a conservation area just outside of town, and built a school to teach of conservation, agriculture, and environmental related aspects of health. He also built a library in town to try and interest young kids in learning. We spent our mornings volunteering in the conservation area. By noon it was too hot to work, so we went to the lake most days, then back to the library before dinner to do crafts with the young kids, and teach english to the older ... read more


TIKAL - BELIZE Los gings von Antigua. Endlich! So bin ich gegen Norden. Zuerst nach Guatemala City runter, das ich durchqueren musste, und prompt habe ich die falsche Hauptstasse aus der Stadt erwischt. Wie wenn ich das erste Mal dort gewesen wäre. Doch ich kam immer von der anderen Seite. Immer ist zwei Mal. Mir ist erst ein Licht aufgegangen als da immer mehr Tafel kamen wo El Salvador drauf stand. Sh*t! Das ist ja gegen Süden anstatt gegen Norden. Also rechts umkehrt und halt diese halbe Stunde wieder zurück. Einmal mehr musste ich sagen, dass ein Navi nicht schlecht wäre... Aber ich habe ja Zeit und hier kann man die Leute fragen. Die wisssen wo es lang geht und können somit auch Auskunft geben. Nicht so wie auf dem Lande... Man sagt rauf gegen Santa ... read more
Aber beginnen wir in Antigua
Die BMW F800 GS
MItten im grünen Peten ist der Rio Dulce


A Little Bit About Tikal The site on which the ancient city of Tikal stands was first settled by the Maya around 700 BC, and over the next 1600 years it grew to become the most dominant city in the Mayan world. At its peak it covered over 30 sq km and had a population of what is now estimated as 100,000 people. It started to collapse, along with most other lowland Maya civilisations around 900 AD. It was then 'rediscovered' in the 19th century and slowly excavated in stages, however there are still many many buildings here that have not been reclaimed from the jungle. At various times it was ruled by such colourfully named rulers as King Great Jaguar Paw, Lord Water, Moon Double Comb and Lord Chocolate (these are of course the names ... read more
The view from Temple 4
Temple 1 again
Some of the creatures we saw


If you're a fan of stone passageways, secret corridors, temple entrances hidden behind waterfalls, and counter-weighted floor plates that trigger traps and open doors ... go play tomb raider. But if you want to see real Mayan temples used by real Mayan folks for real purposes, then Tikal is one of the largest remaining Mayan sites today. Much of its remains are very much in their original state, some temples still only partially unearthed and covered in undergrowth. The draw card for Tikal was the advertised authenticity of a real Indiana Jones experience. So we were slightly disappointed when we arrived at Tikal early morning to be greeted by a nicely cut pathway with clear tourist signage. Okay, so it was a tad naïve to expect otherwise, given its Guatemala's number one tourist destination. But the ... read more
Freaky pink trees
Typical Mayan carvings
Courtyard area


These are the days you least look forward to - a full day of just sitting in a bus traveling to your next destination. As a traveller that tries to account for every minute of every day, these are the things you try to optimize out. But the only other way was a ridiculously expensive flight, so the bus it was for us. At 5am we arrived at Chetumal, having departed from Cancun the night before. It was farewell to the nice comfy Mexican bus, and onto a rickety minibus. We managed to secure the front section at the back, which meant extra leg room, but also meant I was sitting right on top of the vibrating engine. This actually turned out to be a blessing in disguise, because our daughter loved the vibration and hotness ... read more
Friendly nut seller
Flores Streets
Flores streets




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