So, where were we? Really rugged rock faces here as the valley gets narrower and the road climbs higher, tortuous, angry old mountains, great cracks and crevices, agonised twists in the layers of colours, yellows, browns, reds even green, and a quick sighting of Mount Aconagua, nearly 7,000 metres!!, snow capped, proudly standing out as the highest peak outside the Himalyas (across the border I meet a couple of German guys who are going to climb it) then into some serious going up bits, one section has 27 hairpin switchbacks in an almost vertical rise, mind boggling dimensions to the scene, the brain can’t comprehend this enormous vista of the mountains and valleys, then the near-vertical walls of bitumen at each turn, dodging giant trucks labouring under brakes, overloaded and hanging on by the skin of ... read more

I could just about crack it for a few bars of “The Happy Wanderer” Is it just the lack of oxygen? I don’t think so, there must be something more….but everyone is so cheerful! Along the road the road workers grin and wave, a gaucho herding some horses along the river bank waves his hat, I almost expect him to pull out a colt 45 and fire a few shots into the air, backpackers waiting patiently by the road wave and smile, call out greetings, cyclists nod or wave, depending if they’re on the ascent or descent, at every stop along the way people wave and smile…it goes on and on… We decided to Puc off and head for Pucon, just a short trip, couple of hundred kms but the most amazing scenery again. Firstly, out ... read more

After the last thrilling visit to the barber I know you’ve been hanging out waiting for my locks to lengthen anew….today was the day. I nearly didn’t make it as I had a small session in the wonderfully decrepit bar of the museum hotel. I’m writing from the bar this evening, the music is astonishing, some v cool jazz from I don’t know where, but the lighting is extremely low and moody. Several antique chandeliers have small coloured globes, the antique cash register has a little strip light, just enough to see your money. Mostly its dark! Late in the night, after several cervezas I ventured out to the back room and the bano…out the back is the big, cluttered, ‘disco’, haven’t seen it fired up yet but live in hope!..anyway, its pitch black back there, ... read more

I was sitting in the window seat of a restaurant, just snacking and watching the world go by when I noticed nearly everyone going past was staring in at me!…I was getting a bit self conscious….was it something I was eating? bits of food hanging out of my mouth? fly undone?…..later, as I was walking home, I looked at the window and realised it was a mirror!..everyone had been looking at themselves…hmmm This is totally a tourist town, hordes of touries from all over the world…. cars, buses, bikes of course, 4x4s, trucks, all manner of tour vehicles, and all manner of tour shops, clothing stores (everyone needs a fleece here!) restaurants and bars…only one laundry and a 2 day wait, can’t find a barber shop. When the cruise ships come in the population bursts out ... read more

Ahh, what a fabulous city this is…….haven’t felt so at home anywhere for a long time, if you’ve got to live in a city then this is probably iit! My little friend was telling me the other night about a giant frog that lives around here and it has teeth!..Well, I couldn't just let that go past, frogs don't have teeth I replied. Then it was on...all sorts of memories, anecdotes, we had the wait staff at the bar involved, later, taxi drivers, bystanders, people on the street. She had a definite advantage, she speaks espanol, so she could ask the question and filter the answers..I understand enough about espanol and also arguments with women to let it go! We live on Esmeralda Street…now doesn’t that conjure up visions of classy, glittering elegance…the reality is a ... read more