Day 375: Thursday 9 July - Greasing palms I’m sad to be leaving Laos this morning. It has been my favourite country in Southeast Asia to date and one of my favourite countries on my journey so far. Papa takes me across to Ban Nakasang on his boat, offering me my second shot of Lao Lao of the day (he’s already given me one with my breakfast!) on the way. This is yet another example of why I have come to love this country - the people. Laotian’s are the most warm, friendly and generous people I have met anywhere in the world. I will miss the country, but above all I will miss the people. Many of my highlights involve encounters with the locals - sharing in the Akha culture in Muang Sing; the two ... read more

Day 370: Saturday 4 July - Wat Phu Champasak The bus drops me off next to the ferry port which I need to cross the Mekong to Champasak which lies on the other side of the river. The ‘ferry’ is two boats connected by a raft, which can carry a few people and motorbikes. Simple but effective, and typically Laos. On the other side of the river I wonder if I’m in the right place. I can’t see any guesthouses or even any sign that a tourist industry exists in the small village. I ask in a small shop and they point up the road and say 3 kilometres. It may still be before 9am but it is already hot and this is not going to be a walk I enjoy. On the way, I pass ... read more

Day 365: Monday 29th June - Back on the backpacker trail in Vang Vieng Today is going to be a day doing little. After spending 33 hours on buses and sawngthaew’s the last 4 days I need to recharge my batteries. Walking around Vang Vieng in the morning I am not sure this is the ideal place to do it. Vang Vieng has become THE backpacker's pit stop in Laos, and walking down the main street I’ve seen far more westerners than locals. It feels like a mini Khao San Road and is far too westernised evidenced by the restaurant menus serving largely western food, a proliferation of expensive internet cafes, numerous TV bars showing little else apart from re-runs of Friends or Family Guy and many guesthouses which must be doing each other out of ... read more

Day 361: Thursday 25th June - The Secret War After an 8 hour journey to cover only 200km through twisty, mountainous roads surrounded by lush vegetation, dodging cows on the road (a typical Laos journey), I arrive in Phonsavon, the capital of Xieng Khouang province. Unsurprisingly the bus station is 5km from town so I will need transport to get there. I manage to blag a free lift into the town, on the proviso I check out a couple of guesthouses that they are touting. The second is decent, but I told Ross and Yo-Hun that I was heading to King Keo guesthouse. As I am getting a lift there I spot Yo-Hun and Ross in the town checking out tours. I check into King Keo, where the other two arrived an hour or so ago ... read more

Day 356: Saturday 20th June - The first day on a slowboat down the Mekong Described in a number of sources as one of the essential experiences in Southeast Asia, and one of the best boat journeys in the region as well, I should be really excited about the two day trip down the Mekong River from Huayxai to Luang Prabang. This is the section of the river that passes some of the best scenery on its 3000 mile journey through 6 countries from its source in Tibet. I have heard mixed reports so my enthusiasm is checked. I decide in the morning of my departure to buy a ticket from my guesthouse which ends up costing me $2 more than it would have from the boat pier. When will you learn, Andrew??! The price includes ... read more