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Asia » Hong Kong » Hong Kong Island September 5th 2009

Day 431: Wednesday 3rd September - The crazy ‘underworld’ of Chungking mansions How do you describe Chungking mansions to someone who has never experienced it? The Dorset girls tried to describe it to me whilst they explained why I should stay there. They sowed the seed but they couldn’t quite portray what it was all about. I don’t think you can, you need to experience it. Situated to the harbour end of Nathan Road on Kowloon peninsula it is where a number of cheap guesthouses are situated, hence its popularity amongst the backpacker fraternity. The upper floors of the tower block may be the domain of cheap guesthouses where 13 of your best English pounds gets you a room you’d be lucky to swing a cat in. The ground floor however is full of mobile ... read more
3. Hong Kong Skyline from Kowloon
4. Hong Kong Skyline from Kowloon
7. The Star Ferry crossing Hong Kong Harbour with Kowloon  in the background

Asia » Macau » Macau September 3rd 2009

Day 429: Tuesday 1st September - Leaving China but not leaving China I have a two hour bus journey from Guangzhou to Zhuhai which is the city on the border with Macau. Macau, like Hong Kong, is classed as a special administrative region, so whilst it is part of China it is administered almost like its own country. Therefore, there are immigration controls whereupon I get stamped out of China, walk through the building and get stamped into Macau, without technically leaving China!! Macau is its own separate state in all matters apart from foreign policy and defence and like Hong Kong was handed back to the Chinese by the Portuguese in the late nineties. Nothing much is meant to have changed except there is a different country overseeing matters, and its relative independence to govern ... read more
2. Street of Happiness, Macau
3. Largo de Senado, Macau
6. The ruins of the Church of St Paul, Macau

Asia » China » Guangdong » Guangzhou August 31st 2009

Day 428: Monday 31st August - An unwise move: letting my stomach do my decision making I arrive at Guangzhou following an overnight bus journey on a sleeper bus at 6:15am. It was probably the best sleeper bus I’ve taken, but that doesn’t mean much. I slept okay but am still half asleep as I try to locate where exactly I am in the city. There are several long distance bus stations but I don’t know which one I’ve arrived at so I decide that the only course of action is to get a taxi. I get offered a fare of 40 Yuan (£3.50) which is reduced to 35 Yuan when I refuse the offer but he won’t use the meter so I know the bargain is weighted in his favour. If nothing else I’m a ... read more
2. Skyscrapers line the Pearl River, Guangzhou

Asia » China » Guangxi » Yangshuo August 30th 2009

Day 424: Thursday 27th August - Travelling to Guilin Normally you’re in a rush to get on the way when your day is going to be taken up travelling. After two days in Chengyang though I’m starting to get used to this slow, slow pace of life and just take my time to get ready and enjoy my last few hours in this beautiful village. At 10am, I catch the bus to Sanjiang where I must wait a further hour to catch a bus to Guilin. I feel like an exhibit in the zoo as I walk into Sanjiang’s bus station when dozens of eyes turn in my direction, intrigued by the white man! It is four hours in the bus to Guilin, which is still red hot even in the late afternoon. I’ve come to ... read more
3. Limestone karst scenery, Li River cruise
10. Limestone karst scenery, Li River cruise
13. Spectacular limestone karst scenery, Li River cruise

Asia » China » Guangxi » Chengyang August 27th 2009

Day 422: Tuesday 25th August - It feels like I’ve taken a step back in time to another century Today I swap the fantasy world of the Longji Rice Terraces for a world of yesteryear at Chengyang. I leave Ping’ An on the 9am bus, one last look up the hill at the surreal sight of the beautiful terraces. At Longsheng I part company with Jimmy and Maria who are going on to Guilin. I take a bus to Sanjiang, two hours away. As we approach Sanjiang, driving alongside the river we pass a number of impressive bridges and their refection in the clear water. Bridges is what Sanjiang area is famous for. Sanjiang itself is a dusty, dirty small city and I stay only the length of time it takes to wait for a bus ... read more
1. The view from my balcony, Chengyang
3. Chengyang Wind & Rain Bridge
10. View over Chengyang and surrounding villages

Asia » China » Guangxi » Longji Rice Terraces August 27th 2009

Day 420: Sunday 23rd August - Arriving in Longji Rice Terraces In my last post, I had just arrived in the town of Ping’ An 36 hours after commencing my journey from Lijiang. Needless to say on my arrival, I take the first reasonably priced accommodation. I can’t be bothered to look around. Thankfully this gives me my own room to get a good night’s sleep. On closer inspection, naturally after I’ve agreed to take the room, I find the bed is rock hard. It hasn’t got what the average person would describe as a mattress, it only being an inch thick. Tonight I’m going to have to grin and bear it, which shouldn’t be too hard in my present weary state but I’m already making mental preparations to see the rice terraces and move on ... read more
9. Longji Rice Terraces surrounding Ping' An
13. Longji Rice Terraces surrounding Ping' An
17. Zhonglu village, Longji Rice Terraces

Asia » China » Yunnan » Lijiang August 27th 2009

Day 414: Tuesday 18th August - A beautiful old Chinese town My overnight bus journey to Lijiang from Kunming started as the low point of my China trip but it ends up turning out for the best. The cheat in Kunming bus station and the bumpy journey in cramped beds were both unpleasant experiences, but had I not taken the night bus I would never have met the four girls from Dorset. In adversity solidarity breeds and as each of us had to endure the horrible man in Kunming bus station trying to cheat us out of money and the worst of the journey in the beds at the back of the bus, our friendship begins. Jenny, Rachel, Lou and Holly are all 20/21, are on a month long trip around China, inspired because Lou is ... read more
1. The Old Town, Lijiang
3. The Old Town, Lijiang
4. One of the many canals in the  Old Town, Lijiang

Asia » China » Yunnan » Kunming August 26th 2009

Day 412: Sunday 16th August - Intimidated by China I’ve done numerous border crossings on this trip but none have intimidated me as much since the first one in Mexico City’s airport on day one than the one today into China. I don’t know why this is, whether it is irrational or maybe the fear of the unknown. I pack my bags for the trip into China ensuring that my Chinese guidebook is deeply buried in my main rucksack. I’ve read stories that Chinese border guards will confiscate guidebooks as they show Taiwan to be a separate country from China. I catch a minibus down to Lao Cai on the border and over 1000 metres below Sapa. Descending the valley, the bus passes rice terraces clinging to the steep mountains, my last glimpse of the stunning ... read more
2. It probably says welcome to China, Chinese Border Crossing, Hekou
3. Central Kunming
4. Stone Forest, near Kunming

Asia » Vietnam » Northwest » Lao Cai » Sapa August 15th 2009

Day 409: Thursday 13th August - Too fatigued to venture far After an hour’s bus journey from Lao Cai I arrive in Sapa at breakfast time. With no map for reference, I haven’t got a clue where the hotel I booked through the travel agency in Hanoi is. Tired after my overnight train journey from Hanoi, neither have I the patience to endure the constant requests for motorbike rides nor to buy something from the hill tribe women as I walk through the streets of Sapa looking for my hotel. I am not best pleased with what greets me at the hotel. First, I have a disagreement with the guy on reception who is adamant he needs my passport to check me in otherwise he risks a 3 million Dong fine from the police (£100). I ... read more
1. Hmong girls have a tourist in their sights!, Sapa
2. View of Sapa from hotel
26. View from hotel, Sapa

Asia » Vietnam » Red River Delta » Hanoi August 13th 2009

Day 406: Monday 10th August - Water puppets and Bia Hoi I check into the only backpackers hostel in Hanoi on my return from Halong Bay. It’s been three long months since I was last shared a dorm room in a hostel - Malaysia, middle of May, three countries ago being the last occasion. Immediately, I am having regrets booking a dorm room. I have nothing against the people I’m sharing my room with, it’s just I’m used to having my own space. In Vietnam having your own room isn’t uneconomic - it would cost me only $4 a night more. I’ve decided I’ll stay here tonight as I’ve already paid upfront and then check in somewhere else tomorrow. As I think it through though I decide I’m not being fair - I’m going to be ... read more
2. Presidential Palace, Hanoi
3. Temple of Literature, Hanoi
4. Temple of Literature, Hanoi




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