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Asia » Vietnam » Northeast » Quang Ninh » Halong Bay August 10th 2009

Day 405: Sunday 9th August - Day 1 of Halong Bay Today I’m off for a two day tour to Halong Bay. It seems to top most people’s lists as the must do thing in Vietnam and is also on a shortlist of 28 for the 7 natural wonders of the world. However, after my experience of tours in Vietnam I’m not going to get carried away. Sure enough this, my fifth tour in the country doesn’t get off to the best of starts. It is a three and a half hour drive to Halong Bay from Hanoi and we are packed on to a minibus like sardines for an uncomfortable journey. Arriving at the harbour it is bedlam, tourists everywhere, boats scattered across the harbour and it is a wonder how the guides get the ... read more
5. Boats everywhere in Halong Bay
9. Sunset in Halong Bay
11. Sailing towards sunset in Halong Bay

Asia » Vietnam » Red River Delta » Hanoi August 6th 2009

Day 402: Thursday 6th August - Getting a Chinese Visa in Hanoi isn’t straightforward A horde of people meet the train as it pulls into Hanoi. Many of the crowd are motorbike riders looking for business. One latches on to me as I climb off the train. I need a ride so I’m happy to listen to him rather than wave him away. The first stage of discussions is the entirely predictable haggling over a price - he starts stupidly high until he comes down to my price when he sees that I’m not budging. Unfortunately I choose the one guy who doesn’t speak much English and doesn’t know where I want to go. After riding against the traffic up many of Hanoi’s one way streets he eventually stops where he thinks I want to go, ... read more
2. Hoan Kiem Lake, Hanoi
3. Huc Bridge, Hoan Kiem Lake, Hanoi
4. Vietnamese men playing a game of Majong, Hanoi

Asia » Vietnam » North Central Coast » Thua Thien - Huế » Hué August 6th 2009

Day 399: Monday 3rd August - Back on the Reunification Express: Destination Hue I leave a grey Hoi An at 9:30am after a visit to the post office to post a box of delights home. A further hour and I’m in Danang, and after an hour’s wait in the station, I’m back aboard the Reunification Express. The journey to Hue is only about 100km, but as I failed to point out in my last blog about the Reunification Express - it doesn’t move very fast, due to some steep gradients in the hilly terrain. Whereas the Saigon to Danang leg was all about the Vietnamese people, this leg is all about Vietnam’s scenery. As well as lush hillsides, the train runs along the coast past bays and islands and past rice paddies. Being the only foreigner ... read more
3. Thien Mu Pagoda, Hue
13. Ming Mang Tomb, Hue
16. Khai Dinh Tomb, Hue

Asia » Vietnam » South Central Coast » Quảng Nam » Hoi An August 2nd 2009

Day 396: Thursday 30th July - The best and worst of Vietnam on the journey to Hoi An It may not be the cheapest or indeed the quickest method to travel around Vietnam, but I have no doubt it is the best. What am I talking about? The Reunification Express, the train line which runs north-south from Saigon to Hanoi. In some countries travelling by train is impossible or impractical, but in Vietnam I think the Reunification Express will become an integral part of my journey and therefore my experience of the country. I have read that it is a great way to meet Vietnamese people, which is harder on the open buses or on a flight, which are the other alternatives. For the first leg of the 1725km journey to Hanoi, I am travelling to ... read more
2. The ancient streets of Hoi An's old town
3. Lanterns in Hoi An's old town
6. Lanterns and incense coils in Phuc Kien Assembly Hall, Hoi An

Asia » Vietnam » Mekong River Delta » Can Tho July 30th 2009

Day 394: Tuesday 28th July - On and off various modes of transport all day For the next two days I am on a tour to the Mekong Delta. I’ve changed my mind about whether to go to the Mekong Delta several times over the course of the last few days in Saigon, but in the end I chose to pay $23 for a two day tour. The case for was not wanting to miss out on seeing an example of Vietnamese agricultural life and after tracking the Mekong’s progress through Thailand, Laos and Cambodia I felt drawn to seeing it in the final country it flows through before discharging into the South China Sea. The case against was that I had been told by Maria - the Spanish girl I met on the slowboat down ... read more
4. Rice paper drying, Mekong Delta
11. Taking a rowing boat down one of the many canals in the Mekong Delta
12. Rambutans for sale in the Mekong Delta

Asia » Vietnam » Southeast » Ho Chi Minh City July 27th 2009

Day 391: Saturday 25th July - Staying in a $2 million colonial mansion The border crossing between Cambodia and Vietnam goes remarkably smoothly, the bus conductor does a lot of the admin work for you and amazingly I don’t have to pay any bribe money to cross borders. Just over 6 hours after leaving Phnom Penh, I’m in Saigon or Ho Chi Minh City as it is now known. My first experience of Vietnam is the blur of dozens upon dozens of motorbikes flying past my position stood on the pavement next to the bus. Crossing the road would be a daunting experience if this was my first stop in Southeast Asia but I’ve seen this before in Thailand’s big cities and Phnom Penh. Saigon though is a bit different as I learn from my first ... read more
1. Arriving at Jonathan's colonial mansion, Saigon
2. My 'digs' come with a swimming pool!, Saigon
3. Good morning Vietnam!, calling from the balcony in my room at Jonathan's, Saigon

Asia » Cambodia » North » Siem Reap July 23rd 2009

Day 385: Sunday 19th July - Eating crickets I opt to get the bus with Mike and Trudi to Siem Reap rather than take the boat due to a combination of factors: more time in bed, cost, journey time and sticking together with the other two. I would have liked to cross Tonle Sap Lake which is the largest in South East Asia but I can’t justify the additional $13 it will cost me. As we wait for the bus to turn up, there is a woman selling crickets so I decide to get a bag. They are tastier than they look or sound - similar to seaweed that you would get in a Chinese restaurant. When the bus does eventually turn up I am half regretting my decision to get the bus as it is ... read more
3. Taking a bite into a cricket, Battambang
6. Khmer musicians at Preah Khan, Temples of Angkor
9. A tree growing out of Preah Khan, Temples of Angkor

Asia » Cambodia » North » Battambang July 18th 2009

Day 383: Friday 17th July - Travelling to Battambang Today is a travel day, a long travel day. It takes us ten and a half hours from Kampot to Battambang via Phnom Penh. The bus picks us up early before 7am and I’m not ready. I hate rushing, not a good way to start the day. We get lucky in Phnom Penh and transfer directly from one bus to another without having to wait. The Phnom Penh to Battambang road is better and although a longer distance takes a similar - five hours. I’m shattered by the time we reach Battambang at 5:30pm. A motodop driver meets us off the bus and takes us to the Royal Hotel. Normally, I laugh at such names but this time I am offered a room fit for a king. ... read more
1. A 'norry' aka 'the bamboo train, Battambang
4. The railtrack is overgrown and is hardly straight!, Bamboo Railway, Battambang
7. Taking the train apart as we meet another train, Bamboo Railway, Battambang

Asia » Cambodia » South » Kampot July 16th 2009

Day 380: Tuesday 14th July - Chilling out in wet Kampot We buy a bus ticket that includes pick-up from the guesthouse which saves us the trek through Phnom Penh. It is an early start as we are picked up at 7am. Not to worry it is a short journey which will only last 2-3 hours, as we travel south to Cambodia’s south coast. The journey turns out to be more like 5 hours as the bus takes the long route round as it is the better road. This is hard to believe as we pick our way through roadworks, potholes that look like the road has been bombed and frequently venture off tarmac and on to the red dirt tracks that characterise Cambodia’s roads. The bus is fairly comfortable but it is hard to enjoy ... read more
5. Casino, Bokor National Park
6. Casino, Bokor National Park
13. Post Office, Bokor National Park

Asia » Cambodia » South » Phnom Penh July 14th 2009

Day 377: Saturday 11 July - A dull day Today is a fairly dull travel day. The bus journey to Phnom Penh is 6-7 hours and isn’t memorable save a stop near the capital where a girl is trying to sell me a tarantula. I have read that it is a local delicacy, but I’m not sure how you eat them, certainly not while they’re still alive that’s for sure. The girl sat next to me on the bus buys one which makes me feel a bit uncomfortable as she holds it next to me. Phnom Penh is a busy city. It’s a direct contrast to the peace and calm of Laos’ villages and small towns. Mike, Trudi and I walk up to the Boeng Kak lakefront to find a guesthouse which turns out to be ... read more
1. Anyone for a tarantula, the bus journey to Phnom Penh
4. The grand view! from the Grand View Guesthouse, Phnom Penh
5. S-21, Phnom Penh




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