What a way to start a day- alone on a sand dune and a desert sunrise in complete and absolute silence. I will always remember this morning.... Did you know that day old flat bread can be refreshed to perfection when laid directly onto the hot ash bed of a fire? It's probably contextual but that was the best flat bread of the trip- a little bit crisp, a little bit ashy and hot- so delicious. Perfect with fried eggs and lots of hot tea. We begin the day with a hike to the oasis about an hour away. What is very cool are the hundreds and hundreds of animal tracks absolutely all over the dunes. Obviously stealthy, quiet as mice, mice and other little creatures (excluding scorpions- Hashem reassures me it is too cold for ... read more

Ateshooni is a Zoroastrian word meaning, "night time celebrations around a campfire". Sounds good to me- I'm not quite sure WHEN my campfire will eventuate but it's not going to be today. Early wakeup because I've left my curtains open (I like to wake up with the daylight)- the sun is streaming in and it's still pleasantly cool. I get a chance to have a look around the house in the daylight and am very impressed. There's a small garden, geese, date trees and lots of turquoise tiles. I love it. Take a trip up the stairs next to my room to the roof top- very cool space. Head over to Ateshooni through the 2 underpasses; it looks like a medieval mud brick fortress in the light- probably because it was! The actual structure is about ... read more

Before really planning this trip I had never heard of Yazd. After researching I learn that it is; One of the oldest cities in the world - over 3000 yrs old A major centre for the Zoroastrian religion Architecturally important for its Qanats (network of shafts and sloping tunnels to supply water) The driest city in Iran The hottest province north of the Persian Gulf Has a population of around 423 000 people (plus a lot of cats, maybe 200 000?). According to Lonely Planet, "With its winding lanes, forest of badgirs (wind towers, not furry black and white, short legged omnivores), mud brick old town (where my hotel is centrally located) and excellent range of accommodation options, Yazd is one of the highlights of any trip to Iran.... This is a place to wander and ... read more

Hosein the driver/guide from PARS Travel Service arrives at 0730, 1/2 an hour ahead of schedule. What to do? Offer him some breakfast and tea. There's no way I want to forgo my last breakfast at Golshan, have I mentioned how much I enjoy these Persian breakfasts? Before leaving Australia I organised a driver for 2 days so as to fit a few different things into 2 days and have a village homestay that would have been too difficult using the bus system. We set off just after 8 in his car for Persepolis. It is about 70 km north east of Shiraz. Persepolis was listed as a UNESCO Heritage site in 1979 (admission 150 000 IRR) and dates back to the Archaemenid Empire of 520 BC under Darius The Great. It is every bit as ... read more

Enjoyable breakfast with Terry -interesting guy- sculptor, teacher, builder of an Eco house made out of shipping containers on his rural property in NSW. He travels light, with the exception of coffee beans and a whizz bang brewing cup - smart guy (as I rip off the top of one of those three in one coffee sachets). Plan for the morning- the old US Embassy and change some money. Mehrabi at the desk draws me a sketch map and I'm off. Pass through Ferdosi Square, this is a major intersection that is full of mostly men milling around and setting up little areas on the pavement to sell things like bank notes and coins, socks, sunglasses, etc. The shops along Ferdosi are mostly higher end leather, shoe and bag shops and foreign currency places. Arrive at ... read more