I haven't been feeling well the past couple of days. I had to cancel a trip to the Perfume Pagoda (which, despite what some may think, is a religious shrine and not a perfume factory) ;) I also had to cancel a Vietnamese cooking class that I scheduled, where I would have learned to make nems (fresh spring rolls). Yesterday, as I was sitting on the front porch of the hostel and smoking a cigarette (yes, this is what it has driven me to - but don't worry it is not a permanent habit I plan on keeping), I heard at least two different stories of foreigners getting mugged right here on the same street as the hostel; one story about a guy getting arrested for some trumped-up charge; and another about the number of foreigners ... read more

Today is my last day in Sa Pa - tonight it's the night train from Lao Cai back to noisy, crowded, hot Hanoi. I spent my leisurely last day by taking a walk. I picked a road and followed it out of town for over an hour. It was a rewarding way to go. All the scenery nearby is beautiful, so that did not disappoint. The locals were not trying to sell me anything so instead I got a lot of nice smiles and "hellos" with absolutely no strings attached, as they passed me on their way back to their villages or into town. A little mama dog popped up at me about ten minutes into my walk and escorted me all the way downhill until we reached what I assume was her home town, where ... read more

What oh what to do on a rainy day in a mountain hill station? I've been perfectly happy to do absolutely nothing. Illness and exertion in equal measure have caught up to me and I slept in, took a nap, and plan on going to bed early again tonight. But I thought that I might offer some advice (and some more photos), especially for those of you contemplating a trip like this. One of the most intimidating parts of travel is arriving someplace new. You are unfamiliar with the geography, the weather, the scams and language, the people, and how to get around. If you can get this part down, then you have won half the battle. Most backpackers do not rely on reservations. If you do manage to make them, then you can usually arrange ... read more

So far, Sa Pa is blowing Hanoi out of the water. For starters, the scenery is drop-dead-pick-your-jaw-back-up-off-the-ground gorgeous. But mainly, it's the fact that the people here are so much more friendly than anywhere else I've been so far. As I was wandering through the Sa Pa market today, gazing at tantalizing but (for me) forbidden piles of greens, herbs, and vegetables, a typical group of H'mong women came up to me and started plying their wares - mostly beautifully dyed and stitched textiles, but also silver bangles and bracelets. Many of their hands appear almost black from the indigo dyes they use, which makes me wary of buying anything, but they are at least very good-natured about refusals. "Where you from?" This question was my downfall today; usually I don't fall for it and just ... read more

I spent about four hours yesterday afternoon at a hospital in Ha Long City. Waking up in the middle of the night on the beach in Ha Long Bay, I felt dizzy and disoriented, which was weird since I was not drunk (weird that I felt strange, not that I was sober). By morning I was feverish and chilled despite the intense heat, and could barely raise my voice to ask a tent-mate for help. However, once she understood that I was ill, Breanna rushed off to get ice and cold cloths, provide me with pills from her stash, and inform our tour manager. After enduring four hours by boat to get back to our disembarkment point in Ha Long City, I had proceeded on to vomiting and was unable to keep down the rehydration packets ... read more